Nagant Accuracy Problem

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swan hunter

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I have never shot a Nagant before...I traded for a good looking Nagant with laminated stock. It is stamped 1943 on receiver. It is not the long rifle.

I took it out with mil surp ammo and it grouped like 10" @ 40 yards. I shoot garands and 03's all the time so I know about what I should expect from this rifle...

At first, I thought I had the wrong ammo but, the fired brass came out perfect. I tried a bullet test in the muzzle and the whole bullet and case neck went into the barrel.

Are these things counter bored at the muzzle?

I just don't know enough about Nagants to figure this thing out.
 
Some are counter-bored, but that alone is not necessarily a bad thing. It is possible the counter-boring was poorly done and needs to be re-cut slightly. It is possible the action screws are not tight enough. It is also possible that there is some tension on the barrel under the bands. The Finns shimmed the action to free-float the barrel. It could be that the stock does not fit correctly and is causing some serious binding.

Ash
 
Did you clean the barrel and check the rifling? Also, some of the milsurp ammo is not too accurate. Get a box of Privi Partisan if the barrel looks good and try that. They are generally pretty accurate ammo and priced right and are reloadable. As Ash mentioned make sure the screws are tight.

NCsmitty
 
took it out with mil surp ammo and it grouped like 10" @ 40 yards. I shoot garands and 03's all the time so I know about what I should expect from this rifle...

A mosin isn't going to shoot like a Garand or 03. A lot of the mosins were made with very poor quality to start with and use with corrosive ammo hasn't made them any better. They are being sold as 'like new rearsenalled condition' which means the bore can vary from new to a completely crapped out sewer pipe that has been placed in a newly finished pretty stock. 10" at 40 yards is the best some of these rifles will do ( I have one that shoots worse).
 
IIRC most Nagants were sighted in with the bayonet extended. That might affect your accuracy.
 
Most mosins are capable of 3-5" at 100 yards, Cracked Butt.

It could be any one of these problems aforementioned, or you could see if your sights are canted or off. Mine are at the moment because a friend of mine jumped at the recoil and dropped the rifle.
 
I have owned and shot around 11 different Mosin rifles and carbines. Out of those ,only (2) 91/30's were pretty accurate. They were made fast for war. There cheap, I still own (3) 91/30's. I like how they feel and shoot. But, If you want a fine quality milsurp carbine or rifle for accuracy?, Buy Swedish or Swiss. IMO. (Yes, or Finnish, although I have not shot any).
 
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My 38 had a front sight that was not properly staked, and would shift back and forth making accurate shooting impossible. Perhaps yours has this issue?
 
Or Finnish...I'll compare my 28/30 or 39 to any Swedish or Swiss product any day.

The poor accuracy is not likely due to the bayonet because of the extremely poor accuracy at that range. Usually bayonets shift point of impact, not improve accuracy.

Mosins can be plenty accurate and I haven't seen many refurbs that were rotten in the bore as most crapped out rifles were not refurbished. I would check out the fit of the action to the stock. This could make all the difference in the world.

Ash
 
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first of all if you are having nagant issues you may want to post in a handgun related forum...

however if you are by chance referring to a mosin first i'll ask a few obvious questions is it the M44 or M38 (if it has a side folding bayonet on it it's a M44) either way a laminate stock will up the price but if it's a M44 collector's will pay a premium for yours even if it doesn't shoot well because of the 1943 date

in other words if you want a shooter and yours is doing 10" at 40 yards sell it to a collector and get another one
 
IIRC most Nagants were sighted in with the bayonet extended. That might affect your accuracy.

While they may have been sighted in with it extended, it tends to only alter the POI. If it affects the accuracy, I sure can't tell it!

My Nagants are good shooters. But its certainly not unheard of to get a dog once in a while.
 
You know, there are two ways to teach a person the correct terminology. The first is to berate him for his ignorance in using a term. The other is to use the correct term, knowing that everyone demonstrates different levels of knowledge about something. I have, in my time, referred to magazines as clips, called Mosins Nagants, even called a revolver a pistol (even though I have a Colt pocket pistol which is a revolver).

In this case, yes, the correct term is Mosin or Mosin-Nagant or 3-line rifle or US Rifle Model of 1916 or whatever.

Nagant's rifle did not make the grade (but the magazine was pretty good, while Mosin's butt-feed magazine wasn't). Nagant's revolver did, and the Russians produced hundreds of thousands of them. So, technically, the Nagant should refer to the revolver and Mosin to the rifle.

However, in this case, we knew for a fact he was referring to the rifle and responded accordingly. In any case, no Mosin I have ever held, ever, had Mosin or Nagant stamped in any language on it by the original manufacturer.

Ash
 
what surplus ammo are you shooting?
can you measure the bullet diameter and tell us the weight of it?

The carbines are generally supposed to shoot the heavy ball with 183 grain bullet best, as the heavy bullet tends to stabalize quicker in the short barrel then the 148 grain bullets.

You will need to slug the bore to get the bullet diameter youll actually need to shoot. War time production was sloppy at times and the bore diameter can easily range from .310 to .315 .

also, try shooting it at 25 yards. everythign ive read says they were regulated to shoot poi/poa at 25 and 200 yards.
 
I found out the hard way just how much of an effect the stock and barrel bands can have on accuracy.

I have two MNs: a 1944 M44 and a 1942 91/30. On paper, the 91/30 should be much more accurate: it has the physical advantage of a longer barrel and a pretty sharp bore. The M44 is counterbored, and has some moderate wear on the rifling. It's also a much prettier rifle; the stock is in better shape and has a much nicer finish to begin with. More importantly, however, all of the parts fit well - the barrel bands in particular. In contrast, when I was cleaning the cosmoline out of both rifles, I noticed that the front portion of the 91/30's handguard (where the barrel rests) is warped. Moreover, the front band is ridiculously tight and actually has to be tapped into place with a rubber chisel and a mallet.

At the end of the day, the M44 was actually outshooting the 91/30. I was more than a bit surprised given the bore and whatnot, until I remembered that the stock was a bit warped and the front band is extremely tight.

That said, neither of them shot particularly well, and both were embarrassed by my K31 and K98k. I'm not a perfect shot and I didn't have a bench so I couldn't give you accurate groupings, but assuming my K31 is a 1 MOA rifle, I'll take a wild guess say my M44 is a 6-7 MOA rifle with the heavy ball I was putting through it.
 
I took it out with mil surp ammo and it grouped like 10" @ 40 yards

Problem? I thought that was an charming characteristic of the Mosin Nagant. :p

jm
 
Surplus ammo... .3085 diameter. Don't know weight

As far as the proper terminolagy...Sorry, this is the first time I have ever messed with these rifles...I just want to figure out the problem and you guys have been most helpful with suggestions. They are good looking rifles and I would like to spend some quality time with them. I don't expect them to shoot like my Garand :rolleyes:(just in case there is a pistol of the same last name, I am referring to that long, heavy, 8 shot, 30/06 thingy, that GIs used to shoot Germans & other evil doers during some pretty big wars.);)
The rifling looks great on the rifle...I'll try taking it down and see what is underneath.

Thanks for all the positive input!:D
 
My fresh-out-of-the-cosmo 91/30 does 5" or so if I do my part.

Really all I was hoping for was Minute of Nazi so I was more than pleased.
 
My M38 carbine originally shot 6-8" 5/round groups at 100yds, and after tightening the action screws, the groups improved to 3". Aside from that, really the only other thing that I can think of which would so negatively impact accuracy, is a buggered crown. Or.... it could very well just be a stinker; the barrel had been milled so poorly that the rounds rattle their way down the bore, or something along the lines of what Ash suggested.

AmishFury made a good suggestion; if after all attempts to fix your rifle's accuracy problems have failed, sell it to a collectore & buy another.... preferrably a Finnish M39. :D Those are well known amongst Mosin Nagant collectors for being nicely accurate. Finnish MNs are a little scarcer and more expensive than the average war-time Izhvesk M44 or refurbished pre-war Tula M91/30, but they're well worth it.

As for bayonets, my M91/30's POI from POA is spot-on at 100yds without the bayonet fixed, yet I've seen MNs that throw rounds up to 6" off POA without their bayonets fixed. And evidently removing an M44's folding bayonet entirely can throw off the POI.
Before really working the M91/30 out at my range, and after hearing about MNs being sighted-in at the factory with bayonet, I bought an M38 to bypass that idiosyncrasy (partially). It just so happened that my Tula M91/30 doesn't suffer from that quirk, and my Mosinitis hit full stride :D .

rangerruck said:

Also check out the Mosin Nagant HQ Forum over at Gunboards.com.

cracked butt said:
A mosin isn't going to shoot like a Garand or 03. A lot of the mosins were made with very poor quality to start with and use with corrosive ammo hasn't made them any better. They are being sold as 'like new rearsenalled condition' which means the bore can vary from new to a completely crapped out sewer pipe that has been placed in a newly finished pretty stock. 10" at 40 yards is the best some of these rifles will do ( I have one that shoots worse).

Au contraire..... The vast majority of pre-war Mosin Nagants that I've seen have been of outstanding fit-&-finish, especially those from Tula Arsenal. A great many MNs on the surplus market weren't even fired in anger, and have been warehouse denizens since the Great Patriotic War, while many of those that have seen action didn't have a chance to digest much corrosive ammunition. The Soviets generally weren't as hard on their rifles as many believe either; after a fight or training they'd remove the barreled-actions from their stocks, and throw everything into a tub full of hot/boiling water. Communist soldiers were well aware of the corrosive ammunition they used.

When Mosin Nagants reached the refurbishing depots/arsenals as part of the Soviet make-work programs, the ones which were rotted-out sewer-pipes didn't end up in a pretty stock; they instead ended up donating their bolts & receivers to new M44s, or to help out rifles with otherwise good bores. The Soviets were cheap, but they weren't so cheap as to reissue unservicable rifles in the event of another big war.

Of the Russian Mosin Nagants made at Tula, Izvhesk, and Sestroryetsk, those manufactured at Tula Arsenal are considered by many collectors as being the best made (even during war-years), with very well-executed & clean milling done by skilled workers.

And as for accuracy, the M91 & M91/30 have great potential, even with plain iron sights. Especially the Finnish M39 & M28/30, or the pre-war Russian M91 & M91/30s with their higher-quality manufacture and long sight-radius. Take an M91/30 in excellent shape, add on a good quality PU or PEM scope w/ a solid mount, and there's a rifle which can make a good hit out past 800yds.
The M91/30 in this video isn't even a Finnish MN or high-quality Tula fitted with a modern scope, but rather a round-receiver 1942 Izvhesk fitted with a 4x PU scope.
The best I've gotten with my own '34 Tula M91/30 with iron-sights was a bench-test I did in January of this year; IIRC air-temp was between 25-30deg farenheit at 8000ft, with little-to-no wind (very uncommon at this particular range!). I was using Bulgarian steel-core light-ball ('86 vintage), which provided 2" to 2-3/8", 5rd best groups on a 25/300m zero target which I had to use since my range's berm is at 100yds. Prone unsupported net me a 3-2/3" best on the 25/300m target. Posting my sighting targets at the 100yd berm, from the prone unsupported my best group measured in at an even 2-1/2".
 
Once I corked the barrel of my 91/30 up under the first band, it reduced the pattern to near 1MOA. The corking followed several weeks of barrel cleaning using J&B's red and the coarser grey compound. I put the compound on a patch and spun it slowly using a quarter inch drill.

Most pleased with the performance to date and I'm using bulk Hungarian heavy ball. The pattern doesn't shrink very much using Privi Partisen, at least not enough to spring for the extra bucks.

KKKKFL
 
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