Need a good folding knife for my EDC
- Thread starter daytodaze
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MrTrigger
Member
I really like the SOG flash 2, that's what I use, the deep pocket clip is great and it's lightweight/strong.
StrutStopper
Member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2011
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- 636
Just got a Kershaw Leek by Ken Onion. Its the sharpest knife I ever had right out of the box. Assisted opening too.
Valkman
Member
I like the Benchmade Griptilian, but you didn't say how much you want to spend. Heck, I REALLY like my Strider SnG!
I have always carried a pocket or holstered lockback all my life, from age 9 or 10 on. Just to handy of a basic tool not too. Case Shark, Buck Squire, Buck Prince, Buck folding Alpha, Kershaw Leek assist, then on to Spyderco Police and Police 3, Spyderco Military. Took a while to be completely comfortable with a 4"+blade, but would not now be comfortable with anything less.
CAW
CAW
chains1240
Member
I also have a Kershaw Ken Onion design. Wicked sharp. Love the design and light weight. Bought it for $50 about 5 years ago.
show_me_2nd
Member
SOG Twitch II - (The TSA got my first one)
http://sogknives.com/store/TWI-8.html
http://sogknives.com/store/TWI-8.html
Malodorousroadkill
Member
+! on the Benchmade Griptilian. They're excellent knives.
mgregg85
Member
I picked up a Kershaw Needs Work from Wal-Mart a few weeks ago. Nice little knife, I wanted something relatively cheap that I could EDC and beat up at work. Its holding up great and that 14c28n steel they use is pretty easy to sharpen on my soft Arkansas stone. I follow that up with a few strokes on my leather belt(yeah I really need to buy a strop) and it is hair popping sharp.
Not too bad for $36.
I did look at that CRKT Ripple and it is a nice looking knife, I might pick one of those up soon but right now I've got my eye on a composite blade Rake or Junkyard Dog.
Not too bad for $36.
I did look at that CRKT Ripple and it is a nice looking knife, I might pick one of those up soon but right now I've got my eye on a composite blade Rake or Junkyard Dog.
Owen Sparks
member
- Joined
- May 27, 2007
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- 4,523
Whatever you decide on get something with serations. They can save your life if you get your clothing caught in machinery or need to cut a rope or seat belt in an emergency.
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
EDC?
What would EDC mean to you?
Working in a warehouse and hacking up packing materials? Working in an office and opening the occasional box, slicing cheese & salami, and trimming loose threads? Working on a ranch and cutting all manner of stuff under hard-use conditions? Working in a geek job and cutting cable ties, opening boxes, and scraping solder?
My EDC generally never has fewer than three knives in it. I pretty much have a knife for anything that comes up during the day. Today I'm carrying a Leatherman, a Schrade Uncle Henry stockman, a Kershaw Northside, a Buck 444, and a SAK. Three of them got used today.
For many years I carried one "do everything" knife, a little Gerber Silver Knight gent's knife. It did everything I needed. Later, I carried a Kershaw Leek. That's a fine knife, and even more versatile than the Gerber. And then I added a Leatherman, and so on. More recently I carry more because I want to try different designs and patterns -- kind of an ongoing research project that may or may not ever complete.
I'd love to be able to make a suggestion, but if I offer a small gent's knife, and you work on a ranch, that's pretty much not gonna fly.
Similarly, if I suggest a larger heavy duty knife, and you work in a "light & fluffy" office environment, that's gonna be awkward.
So, what's "EDC" to you? Cheese & salami with a side of mail, or cattle and horses with a side of fence work?
What would EDC mean to you?
Working in a warehouse and hacking up packing materials? Working in an office and opening the occasional box, slicing cheese & salami, and trimming loose threads? Working on a ranch and cutting all manner of stuff under hard-use conditions? Working in a geek job and cutting cable ties, opening boxes, and scraping solder?
My EDC generally never has fewer than three knives in it. I pretty much have a knife for anything that comes up during the day. Today I'm carrying a Leatherman, a Schrade Uncle Henry stockman, a Kershaw Northside, a Buck 444, and a SAK. Three of them got used today.
For many years I carried one "do everything" knife, a little Gerber Silver Knight gent's knife. It did everything I needed. Later, I carried a Kershaw Leek. That's a fine knife, and even more versatile than the Gerber. And then I added a Leatherman, and so on. More recently I carry more because I want to try different designs and patterns -- kind of an ongoing research project that may or may not ever complete.
I'd love to be able to make a suggestion, but if I offer a small gent's knife, and you work on a ranch, that's pretty much not gonna fly.
Similarly, if I suggest a larger heavy duty knife, and you work in a "light & fluffy" office environment, that's gonna be awkward.
So, what's "EDC" to you? Cheese & salami with a side of mail, or cattle and horses with a side of fence work?
Brian Williams
Moderator Emeritus
I respectfully disagree, a sharp knife will cut anything that a serrated one will and be easier to sharpen after a hard use. Just look at some of the knife tests that they do, they are cutting 1" manila rope with a non serrated blade and make multiple cuts.
Malodorousroadkill
Member
You can make micro serrations on a plain edge blade buy merely running a course stone over that spot a few times. Serrations have their place, but they're nearly impossible to sharpen. Better to have an edge you can maintain.
I've EDC'd a number of knives over the last 30 years, from the Gerber LST to a Strider SNG. They all have their pros and cons. What I've found for general use is a number of features that fit into an overall work knife.
Blade steel: super alloys are nice, and keep an edge for a long time, then take hours to get it back. On an EDC knive, a edge that cuts doesn't necessarily mean thin and hard - some prying and levering is included, a high alloy blade can chip or even crack. Any good carbon steel will do, L6 or A2, in stainless, from the chinese 18chr13Mov, AUS6, AUS8, 440C, ATS34, up to S30V, which isn't cheap. The midrange alloys do a good job, with a medium stone have a toothy edge that gets through double corrugated cardboard, a tough challenge.
The blade can have a thumbhole, stud, or disc to open it, but every one of them delivers a bit different leverage for that size knife in YOUR hand. You simply have to try it out to see if it works for you. Blade grinds are more specific to separate tasks, a leaf or drop point is better for general works. Full flat ground from edge to top is harder to make but cuts more smoothly. Most quality kitchen knives do that, and the lower the swedge, the more of a prybar it is. And cheap.
Bladelocks are a matter of much discussion. Any of them can fail, which is why some recommend no lock at all - you never get dependant on it, and use the knife safely. Or, learn better. Well, lock or not, you will still get cut. It's part and parcel of using any tool. The primary concern is largely liner locks - they have to be made correctly, and the more reliable ones share common features: The leaf material is a least half the blade thickness or more, the leaf length that pivots is as long as possible, and the material is not the same. What you get is a lot of surface area at the lock, in a disimilar material that has more friction, at the least angle to walk it out of engagement.
Handles come in all shapes, the simpler ones work better as a tool. Width in a carry knife across the back should be less than 1/2 inch, and pocket clips make them extremely easy to access. They are molded or fabricated from nearly everything. The best overall seems to be G10 fiberglass - it's not the most expensive, it's extremely tough, warm to the touch, grippy, non electrically conductive, doesn't deform if tightly held in a pocket, and low key. FRN is used on some good knives, but to do it right needs full liners. Aluminum is consistently too slippery in use and not durable.
Two knives seem to have most of those qualities for a good price, the Spyderco Tenacious, and the Benchmade Vex. More alike than they look, they have full flat grinds, a hole opener, G10 scales, liner lock, pocket clip, and have been on the market long enough we know they perform. There are more expensive knives, but for value - dollars per "usefulness," they are simply more expensive than they are 100% sharper or easier to use. What you get are brag rights about shape or exotic material - not being a better functioning tool.
Knives are largely more cosmetic than men want to admit, they don't just carry them for cutting, or a cheap slip out box cutter with a hardware store logo would be the normal thing seen. I prefer knives that are competently built tools made to cut, not the latest tacticool SEAL endorsed $350 collector a real soldier would leave at home - if he could afford it. It's a work tool for cutting, and they have developed into some really great tools once we learned better and left the Buck folder where it belongs - in the '60s.
Blade steel: super alloys are nice, and keep an edge for a long time, then take hours to get it back. On an EDC knive, a edge that cuts doesn't necessarily mean thin and hard - some prying and levering is included, a high alloy blade can chip or even crack. Any good carbon steel will do, L6 or A2, in stainless, from the chinese 18chr13Mov, AUS6, AUS8, 440C, ATS34, up to S30V, which isn't cheap. The midrange alloys do a good job, with a medium stone have a toothy edge that gets through double corrugated cardboard, a tough challenge.
The blade can have a thumbhole, stud, or disc to open it, but every one of them delivers a bit different leverage for that size knife in YOUR hand. You simply have to try it out to see if it works for you. Blade grinds are more specific to separate tasks, a leaf or drop point is better for general works. Full flat ground from edge to top is harder to make but cuts more smoothly. Most quality kitchen knives do that, and the lower the swedge, the more of a prybar it is. And cheap.
Bladelocks are a matter of much discussion. Any of them can fail, which is why some recommend no lock at all - you never get dependant on it, and use the knife safely. Or, learn better. Well, lock or not, you will still get cut. It's part and parcel of using any tool. The primary concern is largely liner locks - they have to be made correctly, and the more reliable ones share common features: The leaf material is a least half the blade thickness or more, the leaf length that pivots is as long as possible, and the material is not the same. What you get is a lot of surface area at the lock, in a disimilar material that has more friction, at the least angle to walk it out of engagement.
Handles come in all shapes, the simpler ones work better as a tool. Width in a carry knife across the back should be less than 1/2 inch, and pocket clips make them extremely easy to access. They are molded or fabricated from nearly everything. The best overall seems to be G10 fiberglass - it's not the most expensive, it's extremely tough, warm to the touch, grippy, non electrically conductive, doesn't deform if tightly held in a pocket, and low key. FRN is used on some good knives, but to do it right needs full liners. Aluminum is consistently too slippery in use and not durable.
Two knives seem to have most of those qualities for a good price, the Spyderco Tenacious, and the Benchmade Vex. More alike than they look, they have full flat grinds, a hole opener, G10 scales, liner lock, pocket clip, and have been on the market long enough we know they perform. There are more expensive knives, but for value - dollars per "usefulness," they are simply more expensive than they are 100% sharper or easier to use. What you get are brag rights about shape or exotic material - not being a better functioning tool.
Knives are largely more cosmetic than men want to admit, they don't just carry them for cutting, or a cheap slip out box cutter with a hardware store logo would be the normal thing seen. I prefer knives that are competently built tools made to cut, not the latest tacticool SEAL endorsed $350 collector a real soldier would leave at home - if he could afford it. It's a work tool for cutting, and they have developed into some really great tools once we learned better and left the Buck folder where it belongs - in the '60s.
USAF_Vet
Member
Benchmade Barrage (580s) is my EDC. Partially serrated drop point blade, 3 5/8" blade length, OAL8 3/8", closed length 4 3/4". Fully ambidextrous, thumb stud, assisted opener.
this is my pocket knife. there are many like it but this one is mine...
ArfinGreebly
Moderator Emeritus
Zeitgeist
For some years I owned a small Holley Wharncliffe Whittler that was made in the '40s, before I was born. It was bought for me by my grandfather and given to me by my grandmother after he was gone. It had white bone handles and was made of a CV steel variant, and took a grayish patina. It was sharp as blazes and had a seriously authoritative snap. I lost it somewhere between an RAF base in England and home when I returned to the US.
I would pay handsomely to have a copy of it. It was finely crafted and probably cost about $5 new.
I have several "traditional" folders whose designs date back to the '50s and earlier. I find them useful and quality tools.
I also have a variety of Buck folders, both of traditional and modern design. I carry several of them in EDC rotation, and use them regularly.
I'm not sure what it would be about classic designs that would need to be "left in the sixties."
I have some Gerber fixed blades from the '70s. Not made any more. We've moved on. Shame, though, because those tool steel fixed blades were some durable stuff.
We tend, as a society, to want to abandon "old" designs as "obsolete." New is Kewl. And I get that. I like new stuff.
However, there is a cost for this: lost technology.
I agree that we should take advantage of advances in metallurgy, improved geometries, and new synthetics.
I don't agree that we should "leave all that old stuff in the past."
Mileage will vary, naturally.
(Just to verify that I get what you mean, this is the Buck 110 we're talking about, yes?)
For some years I owned a small Holley Wharncliffe Whittler that was made in the '40s, before I was born. It was bought for me by my grandfather and given to me by my grandmother after he was gone. It had white bone handles and was made of a CV steel variant, and took a grayish patina. It was sharp as blazes and had a seriously authoritative snap. I lost it somewhere between an RAF base in England and home when I returned to the US.
I would pay handsomely to have a copy of it. It was finely crafted and probably cost about $5 new.
I have several "traditional" folders whose designs date back to the '50s and earlier. I find them useful and quality tools.
I also have a variety of Buck folders, both of traditional and modern design. I carry several of them in EDC rotation, and use them regularly.
I'm not sure what it would be about classic designs that would need to be "left in the sixties."
I have some Gerber fixed blades from the '70s. Not made any more. We've moved on. Shame, though, because those tool steel fixed blades were some durable stuff.
We tend, as a society, to want to abandon "old" designs as "obsolete." New is Kewl. And I get that. I like new stuff.
However, there is a cost for this: lost technology.
I agree that we should take advantage of advances in metallurgy, improved geometries, and new synthetics.
I don't agree that we should "leave all that old stuff in the past."
Mileage will vary, naturally.
Coyote3855
Member
ArfinGreebly makes a good point, that EDC knives vary with what ever you're doing all day. Right now I'm carrying an old first model Leatherman, a Spyderco Endura, a MooreMaker small trapper, and a SAK for the sissors, toothpick, and tweezers. I work in an office environment, but it's Wyoming and no one here takes a second look if I use the Endura to open a package or an envelope. Weekends, I change out to a Leatherman Blast and Victorinox Farmer. But always the Endura.
It's old news to the knife industry, the average brass liner slip joint that was the backbone of the knife industry in the .30's had less than a 48 month working life. Carbon steel blades were constantly sharpened down, the organic scales pinned on loosened, chipped, and broke, and the brass liners flexed a lot, aggravating the brittleness of the scales and loosening the pins.
All my older traditional knives I've picked up over the years show it. The unlined Endura's I've owned had the same problems, especially the integral clip models. They lacked sufficient strength to resist compression and would literally take a set, trapping the blade or loosening the clip. And Sal at Spyderco changed the design because of it.
Hence, after 35 years of totin' a lockback, I recommend G10. I have been using nitrided blades since '99, and that feature is worth every penny, too. It stays cleaner, shrugs off 95% of the scratching blades suffer, and doesn't wear off like cheap coatings.
I have old knives, but I'm not blinded to what makes a better tool. I don't have rotary dial on my cell, either, and being wireless is pretty convenient. No love lost on those older knives, they are simply too lightly constructed for long term serious use. I noted some people carry pocket jewelry, and that's what they are to me, bling for guys.
I carry a tool.
All my older traditional knives I've picked up over the years show it. The unlined Endura's I've owned had the same problems, especially the integral clip models. They lacked sufficient strength to resist compression and would literally take a set, trapping the blade or loosening the clip. And Sal at Spyderco changed the design because of it.
Hence, after 35 years of totin' a lockback, I recommend G10. I have been using nitrided blades since '99, and that feature is worth every penny, too. It stays cleaner, shrugs off 95% of the scratching blades suffer, and doesn't wear off like cheap coatings.
I have old knives, but I'm not blinded to what makes a better tool. I don't have rotary dial on my cell, either, and being wireless is pretty convenient. No love lost on those older knives, they are simply too lightly constructed for long term serious use. I noted some people carry pocket jewelry, and that's what they are to me, bling for guys.
I carry a tool.
22-rimfire
Member
I can only recommend what I personally use and have found to be reliable. (1) Spyderco Delica or the larger Endura-plain edge; (2) SOG Mini Vulcan; (3) SAK Trekker or Adventurer; (4) Case or GEC Trapper; (5) Spyderco Native; (6) SOG Twitch II or or XL . I usually have two knives on me. For the last month it has been the Delica and Adventurer. (I found the Endura to be a bit large for me.) I sometimes carry a CRKT Razel stubby (folder) for the fun of it. For the price it is an okay knife and kinda interesting. I am surprised nobody has suggested a Sebenza which are quality (but expensive) knves.
T.R.
Member
M Tech is a keeper! Model numbers shown on photo.
TR
TomADC
Member
Mtech has quite a selection to check out and the prices are very reasonable.
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