Need a washer to index this suppressor against.

[CoRoMo]

I've got a new host for a TacSol Cascade. It's a 10/22 Takedown with a factory threaded barrel. Problem is, there isn't sufficient face to index this can. Combined with the way TacSol makes a recess to the thread mount. You can see in these pictures.

Hope the red arrows show you where the can is recessed at the back end. The front sight of the rifle doesn't have a large enough face diameter to index to, so the suppressor tightens against the upper portion of the front sight. This pitches the can downward of course and we lose concentricity.

And so I'd be headed for a baffle or cap strike unless I can find a way for this setup to index right.

We were about to chuck this barrel in a lathe and take off some of the front sight so that its face would fit and index inside that recess on the Cascade, but if I could find a spacer/washer that was machined precise enough, that would be my first preference. I wouldn't want it to be too thick either; .125" tops maybe.

So, suggestions please!

 

[weblance]

Strange way to make the rear area of the suppressor. SilencerCo has a spacer that is what you are asking for, but who knows if it will work in your situation. Another option is to contact a quality machinist like Jim Pixley, and see what he thinks. You might have to sent your barrel to him and have the barrel rethreaded and the sight set back. Good luck.

 

[Armored farmer]

u need a shim washer.
I don't know a thing about suppressors, but if I had that problem here on the farm, I'd pop an o-ring in there.

 

[CoRoMo]

SilencerCo has a spacer...

Those are too think, me thinks. I don't want to lose too many threads. GemTech also makes one, but those spacers are designed to take up the threads of a muzzle that has too much thread (AR15 spec thread length). This barrel ain't got that problem.

Might work though.

I'm going to head over to a supply shop I know that might be able to get me a thrust washer that'll work. Not sure how precise they are made though. We'll see.

 

[Theohazard]

I don't want to lose too many threads. GemTech also makes one, but those spacers are designed to take up the threads of a muzzle that has too much thread (AR15 spec thread length). This barrel ain't got that problem.

Measure your thread length. Most .22 silencers are designed to fit on threads that have approximately 0.4" of thread length, but many .22 rifles have thread lengths around 0.6" or so, which is too long for most .22 silencers and can lead to baffle strikes.

I prefer Gemtech's spacer because it's hexagonal and therefore can be unscrewed with a wrench if needed.

Whatever you do, don't use standard washers, these aren't precisely machined enough and can lead to baffle strikes.

I don't know a thing about suppressors, but if I had that problem here on the farm, I'd pop an o-ring in there.

That's a bad idea; an o-ring can mis-align your silencer and lead to baffle strikes.

 

[CoRoMo]

Can't find the right thrust washer locally. I can get pretty close with an outfit out of Denver. Online this is about as close as I can get to the specs I want... ID=0.505" OD=0.875" Thickness=0.1875". I wish that OD was 1" though, but it shouldn't matter as it's close enough.

Measure your thread length.

I'll do that, but I recall it not being the longer length.

...don't use standard washers...

Yup. I've preached that for years. I'm assuming thrust washers are substantially more uniform and precise than the steel stamped stuff you buy at Home Depot. Don't know for sure though. Maybe someone here does.

 

[Theohazard]

Measure your thread length.

I'll do that, but I recall it not being the longer length.

I'm fairly certain that 10/22s with factory threaded barrels have the longer thread length, so I'm interested to hear what your measurement is.

 

[jmorris]

If you have the ability to chuck up a tapered barrel and turn the front sight back, I would bet you could take some barstock and turn it down/bore for the ID/OD that you want, face it off then part the thickness you desire.

Not only that but you could likely be finished before you could have mounted the 4 jaw chuck, not to mention indicate the barrel in.

 

[Hyrulejedi86]

Can we see a picture of the end of your barrel with only the threads showing?

 

[Arizona_Mike]

A long to short thread adapter with a o-ring to keep the threads clean in even better

Mike

 

[HRnightmare]

I'm fairly certain that 10/22s with factory threaded barrels have the longer thread length, so I'm interested to hear what your measurement is.

Yeah my sight on my takedown threaded barrel is like 2" back, I have plenty of room. Are you sure it was factory threaded? Seems odd.

 

[KingTiger]

The 10/22 Takedown threads are .565" long vs. the standard .400" used for .22 silencers. Ruger decided to thread it for the 556 flash hider instead of for silencers for some reason :banghead:

The spacer previously mentioned would solve your problem.

 

[Arizona_Mike]

I thought all 10/22s had rifle style threads. My non-takedown match chamber 10/22 does and needed either a spacer or adapter.

Mike

 

[CoRoMo]

Darn, I don't post here as often as I used to. Apologies.

Those are too thick, me thinks. I don't want to lose too many threads. GemTech also makes one...

Fixed that for you... uh, er.. for me. Now it is an accurate statement!

I'm fairly certain that 10/22s with factory threaded barrels have the longer thread length, so I'm interested to hear what your measurement is.

Here's what I'll do... I'm posting a picture of the first 10/22 Takedown that I acquired. I wish I had taken a picture of the threads without the crush washer that Ruger supplied, but I didn't. And I later sold off that first rifle. I also didn't ever measure the length of those threads because simply laying eyes on them told me they were too long, as has been discussed a good bit in this thread despite the realities of my current rifle. (Both of these 10/22's are model 11125) Speaking of which... below this picture of my previous 10/22 is a photo of my current one.

Can we see a picture of the end of your barrel with only the threads showing?

Absolutely. Please see below.

...so I'm interested to hear what your measurement is.

Please read the measurement aloud for the class.

Yeah my sight on my takedown threaded barrel is like 2" back, I have plenty of room. Are you sure it was factory threaded? Seems odd.

I don't know if you were asking me or the member you quoted. But yes, I'm dead certain that this is a factory threaded model 11125 10/22 Takedown. Ruger has obviously altered the thread specs for this particular model and they did not send a crush washer on this current one like they did on the former one.

The 10/22 Takedown threads are .565" long vs. the standard .400" used for .22 silencers. Ruger decided to thread it for the 556 flash hider instead of for silencers for some reason :banghead:

The spacer previously mentioned would solve your problem.

From my experience explained here, the earlier model 11125 10/22 Takedowns certainly had longer threads than the current one I have. As I mentioned earlier, I never bothered to measure the threads on that first rifle because seeing that they were long was all I needed to know, so you might be right that the first rifle I had probably measured the .565". But do note the length of the current 10/22 Takedown model 11125 threads in the picture above. A spacer from GemTech or Silencerco will be what... half the thread length? A 0.200" spacer is just oo thick. Nope, I'll lose more theads than I'm willing to lose with that option. I'll space the back end of this can no more than 0.100" off the face of the rifle's front sight if at all possible, and it is.

...I would bet you could take some barstock and turn it down/bore for the ID/OD that you want, face it off then part the thickness you desire...

This is one of the few correct statements in this thread.

 

[Theohazard]

Thanks for the info. It looks like Ruger has changed the thread length on their takedowns (and hopefully the rest of their 10/22 line) to the more sensible .4" length. That's good to know.

 

[jmorris]

All you had to say is that you were old enough to own, and know how to use, vernier calipers. We would have all known you had it under control

 

[Surly]

You're going to have to get it turned back in a lathe. Since it's a TD, it'll be a piece of cake. Make sure to specify that the sight will need shortened as well. Take the can along so the smith has a visual.

 

[wally]

Can't find the right thrust washer locally. I can get pretty close with an outfit out of Denver. Online this is about as close as I can get to the specs I want... ID=0.505" OD=0.875" Thickness=0.1875". I wish that OD was 1" though, but it shouldn't matter as it's close enough.

Have you looked at an AR "peel washer"? Although these are getting harder to find since everyone seems to be using "crush washers" these days to index the flash hider.

 

[MasterSergeantA]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/654454/dpms-peel-washer-ar-15

 

[Surly]

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/654454/dpms-peel-washer-ar-15

Crush and peel washers are not true and can cause rub or strikes. The OP needs to have the front sight modified due to the shorter threads and have the sight base trued for the can to thread against.

I've been down that road before and shortcuts don't cut it.