Need advice - looking for an 8mm Mauser as a cheap shooter?

[AlexI]

Hi guys,

I'm thinking of getting myself a relatively cheap surplus Mauser in 8mm (cheap ammo for practice); putting it into an ATI stock (some think it ugly but I rather like the looks... and people who used it say it works well enough); and installing a cheap pistol scope on it in scout position (just to start with, and try the concept for myself).
If I like it, I may later put some more money in it for a good scout scope, aftermarket trigger and maybe shortening/recrowning the barrel. But, to begin with, I hope to have a decent powerfull rifle (not a sniper rifle by any means, of course) setup on a budget (don't have any full power rifles right now, just a couple carbines in .357 and .22).

So, the requirements are:
- 8mm Mauser, a large ring to fit ATI stock (M48 will fit too);
- very good mechanical condition (bolt and barrel), decent inherent accuracy (I would be happy with 2 MOA, but not sure what can be expected...);
- don't care about stock condition, accessories, collectability.

Please suggest what kind of Mauser should I look for (Yugo M48, or something less common?), and where it can be ordered from, at good price and with minimal chance of getting a "lemon"?

Thank you.
Alex.

 

[sumpnz]

Try searching on www.gunbroker.com, or www.auctionarms.com.

I bought a Turkish 8mm for $80 about 4 years ago, and it had matching numbers. I've heard more than one person describe it as the best looking Turk Mauser they'd seen. The "hand select" but not matching ones were going for $60, and the run of the mill ones were $40. As far as I know, prices have gone up quite a bit since then, but you should still be able to find good ones for well under $150.

If you want a Yugo Mauser, try http://www.mitchellsales.com/rifles/hist_m48/index.htm. They're a bit pricey, but from what I've heard, they have top quality rifles. They also have German Mausers, but be prepared to pay lot$ for 'em.

Good luck.

 

[Sactown]

Dont' buy direct from Mitchell. CDNN carries the same rifles, in the same box marked Mitchell's Mausers, with all the same accessories, starting at $149. Mine arrived in excellent condition. Shiney bore, all blueing.

 

[Preacherman]

I did exactly what you're proposing a couple of years ago: took a beat-up Yugo M48 with lousy wood, but barrel and action OK, and dropped it into an ATI stock. I mounted a 2x pistol scope on a forward Scout mount from S&K - see here for details, picture below:





B-Square also offer a similar mount - see here and scroll down for details.

As to where to get your Mauser - don't get a high-dollar gun like the Mitchell, even from CDNN. You should be able to find a "beater" Yugo M48 or M48A for well under $100 from various wholesalers.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

A Czech VZ-24 would be another good choice. The VZ-24s were some of the best Mauser 98 actions made.

 

[Okiecruffler]

The M48/48A's are the cheapest thing going right now. I have one that will shoot 1.5 inch 5 shot groups with turk ammo all day. Avoid Mitchell's Mauser's like the plague. They should send all their rifle's with a tube of KY.

 

[Spot77]

Is it true that all/most of the bulk 8mm ammo is corrosive?

Just something to keep in mind if that's true. You'll need to clean your rifle right away lest the rust demons take hold.


And since somebody will say it sooner or later, I'll get it out of the way now . given any thought to a Yugo sks? They can be had for a song and the ammo is dirt cheap too....and non-corrosive.

I always wanted one of those 8mm's though. There's a local guy selling them for $99

 

[standingbear]

Id go with a yugo m48.they are all milled.Mine came from cherrys inc and is a great shooter.Im looking for a walnut stock..if you find an unfinished one,lemme know.

Is it true that all/most of the bulk 8mm ammo is corrosive?

yes and no...most surplus is corrosive however..I found some s&b ammo that is not on the s&b website.plain green box labled caliber only and boxer primed.....its driving me nuts trying to find more of it...$8 a box of 20(at the gunstore but I know I can get it cheaper by bulk) and its shiny new stuff...shoots great in my m48 too.

 

[Okiecruffler]

" given any thought to a Yugo sks?"

BIG difference between the 7.92X57 and the 7.62X39. Unless you're using American ammo, then the edge might go to the 7.62.

 

[telewinz]

Get a little hisrory while you are at it. Get one of those K98K Russian captures for about $200. They are in very good shape and its hard to beat their KNOWN history.

 

[AlexI]

Preacherman - looks like your stock is not what I have in mind. I'm thinking of that very modern looking affair with built-in, full length Weaver rail on top.

Regarding SKS - I live in NYC! Basically, no semiautomatics of military origin are allowed... So it is going to be a Mauser, and I will deal with corrosive ammo if I have to.

It sounds like the safest bet would be to look for a very good to excellent condition M48, and they seem to go for $150 at best.
Only interordnance lists VGC (non matching numbers) M48A for $80, and they may be out of stock, I haven't called them yet. If anybody here knows a company that actually has (or recently had) M48s for around $100, please let me know!

K98s - it may be iirational, but I would prefer not to own anything with Nazi history and markings on it. Besides, I'm not looking for a piece of history (remember what I said my plans are).
Also, I'm kind of afraid that with any Mauser out there except M48 there is a chance of getting a worn out bore from long military use. It shouldn't be a great concern with any M48s, right?

Thank you.
Alex.

 

[Sharpshooter223]

I got three of the yugo m48's from an ad in Shotgun news. Flip through there and find the cheapest ad for them I got them all three for around $300 including shipping and that was hand picked condition. In another ad in shotgun news I picked up 1400 rounds of 8mm ammo shipped for about $95.00. Fun gun to shoot.

 

[Beetle Bailey]

My buddy BamBam-31 has a Yugo Mauser with nice metal, but the butt of the stock is messed up. I think an angry beaver got ahold of it , but he likes to say "I think a handgrenade went off next to it" .

Anyways, he put it in the ATI stock and uses an regular (not scout-style) scope on it. While the looks are a bit odd, it works pretty well for him. It's also not as heavy as it looks (though it's no lightweight either). With the padded buttplate, it is pretty comfortable to shoot, in the limited experience I had with it (firing Yugo surplus 8mm).

BTW, I believe the VZ-24 has a straight bolt (the only one I shoot did, anyways) so I believe it won't work with the ATI stock (unless you bend it). However, the one VZ-24 I shot seemed well-built and they are also not terribly expensive (IINM $80 for the one I shot).

Also, don't mean to push the German 98k since I don't want any Nazi stuff, either, but FWIW some of the Russian Capture 98k's have all Nazi markings ground-out by the Russians in part as a way of showing their contempt for the Nazis. To me, this would actually be preferred over the ones with Nazi markings intact(which I won't buy). I guess I am in the minority though, judging from the prices of the RC 98k's with vs. without Nazi markings. Again, not trying to impose my feelings over yours, just putting out another option for you.

 

[spacemanspiff]

wow....dont think i've EVER heard anyone say they wanted a mauser thats been wiped clean of original german stampings.

the weapons issued to german soldiers are not evil. even the soldiers themselves werent necessarily poster-children for the nazi regime. it wasnt german soldiers who commited acts against humanity. it was the higherups who ordered the medical testing and the torture of anyone not fitting the 'aryan' mold.

but i digress...

someone asked about corrosive ammo. the turkish stuff on the market is. i've found that cleaning it out isnt that difficult, but it is enough of a chore that i wont just take out a small amount of ammo to shoot. it may take me an hour or so total to clean, and i cant justify shooting it for anything less than 2 hours.

i use windex, plug up the muzzle end of the barrel, pour the windex in, and run the bore brush through a couple dozen times. run some more through with hoppes until the patches come out clean.

 

[telewinz]

some of the Russian Capture 98k's have all Nazi markings ground-out by the Russians in part as a way of showing their contempt for the Nazis. To me, this would actually be preferred over the ones with Nazi markings intact(which I won't buy). I guess I am in the minority though,

To me its a question of documented history and character, the peening is a badge of honor and makes recognition easy but I'd still be happy with an all original K98K with the markings intact but not the $800-1000 price tag.

the turkish stuff on the market is. i've found that cleaning it out isnt that difficult, but it is enough of a chore that i wont just take out a small amount of ammo to shoot.

I've been shooting turk ammo for months, with the proper solution it requires no more effort than cleaning normal ammo. You just have to be careful and clean the gas system. I shoot Turk ammo in my Hakim and FN49, takes 5 minutes to clean then I'm good to go.

 

[natedog]

Sounds like a good idea. However, with an 8mm Mauser and a steel butt plate, you won't be able to do A LOT of shooting.

 

[Sharpshooter223]

The kick on them isn't really all that bad. I will go out and shoot 140 rounds no problem. You feel it less when you stand up too

 

[AlexI]

What steel butt plate? The ATI stock I plan to use has a soft rubber butt pad, supposed to do a good job on recoil.

BTW, I did decide on an M48. Found a gun store within driving distance (barely) that has several M48s in stock, will go there this Saturday and hopefully choose one. They say they have M48s in different condition (priced accordingly), so there has got to be one like I'm looking for.

I will keep you guys updated on this project.

Thanks.
Alex.

 

[albanian]

I was just about to suggest a M-48 or a M-48A Yugo Mauser. I got mine from CDNN for $69.00 about a year ago. They said it was in "GOOD" cond and CDNN checks headspace on all of them. It came in excellent plus condition and I wonder if it had ever been fired. The bolt did not match the rest of the gun and the upper handgaurd looks like it doesn't match either. I don't know why a like new gun would have a mis-matched bolt and upper handgaurd but that is how it came. I was more than happy for the money because I bought it as a shooter and it sure does shoot! It has a rock solid action and good accuracy even though the bore is a little rough. It is not pitted, just a few burrs or something that catches the patch as I run it through.

Most surplus ammo is corrosive and that is a huge pain in the butt! You can't just clean it the way you would clean a regular gun and it is wise to clean it several times after shooting it. What I do is, try to clean it ASAP after shooting and then if I haven't shot it in a while, I will clean it again. I don't shoot my 8mms much anymore because of the cleaning hassles. I won't just take it out and pop a few rounds through it because it is not worth the cleaning for just a few rounds. I have lots of guns and I often take half a dozen to the range each trip. I have more guns that time and I only get to the range twice a month or so anymore. In the summer it is almost every week.

 

[Feanaro]

I don't shoot my 8mms much anymore because of the cleaning hassles.

Why is it such a hassle? All you have to do is pour water down the bore and onto the bolt. Wipe the bolt, and use some patches to dry the barrel. Even better if you can get hot water. Or perhaps you mean the ammo itself is dirty?

Corrosive ammo doesn't need any strange cleaning rituals or odd potions made by a witch in a Loosi'ana bayou. No windex or ammonia, just water. Of course, the ammo itself can be very dirty... or it can be very clean.

 

[sumpnz]

I've commented elswhere that I won't shoot Turk 8mm anymore mostly becuase of the cleaning hassles. It's very dirty ammo, and it seems that no matter what I do I can't get all the fouling out of the bore. I'm sure I've gotten all of the corrosive residue out, but it's the powder fouling that kills me.

I'm actually thinking of lapping the bore to help with cleaning. I've read on THR about using some abrasive compound put on a patch wrapped around a bore brush. I've also looked into some fire-lapping systems (not on THR). The downside to fire-lapping is that it not only wears the bore more than hand lapping, but it also requires that one be a reloader (at least for Tubb's Final Finish System). I'm not a reloader (yet).

Considering that at least part of the problem is most likly due to pitting in the bore, some form of lapping will probably be necessary, even when I get some modern, clean, non-corrosive ammo. Anyone here have experience with Tubbs? Hand lapping?

 

[thefitzvh]

Well, I'll add my suggestion, but it's worth EXACTLY what you paid for it

Have you thought about a Mosin-Nagant? I picked up a 91/30 on a whim, and I've been shooting the HELL out of it since. Got it from AIM surplus, for 59 bucks with all accessories. Mine's a real good shooter, and looks nice too. Ammo's WAY cheap, and there's new manufacture available from wolf and barnaul for WAY cheap. I've been shooting Czech silver tip, which is corrosive, but Liberal amounts of windex and a careful eye keep trouble away. The 147 grain czech stuff doesn't kick too bad, and it's the most accurate of the surplus 7.62x54 that I've tried.

The m44 I got the same day (sitting in the dealer's safe for a year, abandoned by a gun show patron) shoots very well too, although it's not as pretty. It kicks harder, nice big fireball, and generally makes me want to grunt and pound my chest


Plus, it'll give you something to hold when you're watching Enemy at the Gates :-D


Just my $0.02


James

 

[PATH]

Bought two VZ-24 Mausers without markings. Had one converted to .270, converted to bent bolt by gunsmith, added new stock, put on a meat and potatos scope and found myself with a very nice hunting rifle and an 8mm plinker. Large ring Mausers that are inexpensive are great!

 

[albanian]

"All you have to do is pour water down the bore and onto the bolt. Wipe the bolt, and use some patches to dry the barrel. Even better if you can get hot water. "

Is that true? All you need is hot water?

I have been doing more than this. What I have been doing is, pour some soap down the bbl (Joy) and then scrub it with my brass brush until I feel I got most of the bore good and soapy. Then I rinse with boiling water from a tea pot and repeat. I do that until the bore looks clean or until a patch comes out clean. Sometimes I will follow with a dose of Hoppes and then a oiled patch. I always finsih with an oiled patch but sometimes I skip the Hoppes.

If all you really need to do is pour water down the bore, I might shoot mine more often. What is your easy way to clean using water? Do you use soap also or just the water?

 

[mparris71]

Wasn’t Hoppe’s No. 9 formulated especially to clean corrosive fouling?