Need Advice on Building Reloading Bench

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socalbeachbum

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hope I'm not too far off topic here, but have decided to start reloading and realized I need to buy or build a good strong bench. I'd like to keep it simple stupid, keep it relatively compact.

Any good ideas for me? I've considered making it from 3/4" plywood, have thought about all 2x8 construction. Don't want something flimsy. Would about 24 x 60" be big enough? What height works out well?

Reloading .38's only initially but figure I ought to make it nice enough to handle .50 BMG if need be.
 
If you make it 24x60 inches there's a good chance you will be building one more soon. Make it at least eight feet long.
 
I'm a cheapskate and I'd be inclined to make use of some kind of used furniture like an old executive desk or something, but it probably wouldn't be optimum. I've seen some impressive work on this website, though - check past (reloading bench) threads.
 
Look here until you eyes glaze over:D

3/4" ply is perfect. The size depends on your available space. You can double the 3/4" ply or build a strong frame under it. If possible you should attach it to a sold wall.

You can get by with a small bench if needed if you have the room sure build a long one.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=218720
 
I made mine out of 2X4 and the top is 2 sheets of 3/4 finished ply. One thing that will really sturdy it up is having the ability to bolt it to the wall. Make sure you have a good enough lip on the front to clamp a c-clamp, that comes in handy. I also sank some T-nuts on the underside so removing the press is easy and clean.

23" D X 74" W X 36"H. The 36" height works well for standing, or sitting on a stool.
 

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I had 2x4's and 4x4's that I use to have to hold my grape vines until a hurricane blew it over. I took the same wood, sanded it down, and put a finish on it. It's about 5'x3', it works fine for my single stage press, very solid. I can take the press off and we can use it as an emergency table if needed.
 

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Height is going to be based on weather you want to sit or stand. I sit, for me it's more comfortable. As for height, mine is 32" if I recall. The top of the handle is inline with my shoulder so every thing is easy on the joints. On the down stroke my arm straightens up on full stroke. The main thing on a bench is that it needs to be solid which in some cases means securing it to the wall. One of mine is of 2x4 construction with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood, glued and screwed together with 1 layer of 1/4" hard masenite with smooth side up for easy cleanup. The other is a heavy wall metal bench (plywood top) with over 1000lb setting on it.
 
Mine is framed with 2x4s and the top is 2 sheets of 3/4 ply, screwed and glued together.

Screwed and glued is a good way to go.

Rigid is the key. Screwed joints still flex so adding gluing gets the joints more rigid. The repetitive loads put on the bench by the press will work the joints.

Some folks tie the bench to the wall, which is another way to add rigidity but it can be done without attaching the bench to the house.
 
thank you. I ended up going with one section of pallet rack, 72 x 72 x 24 with 3 tiers. one is the footrest//shelf, one is the bench, one is overhead shelf with lights mounted underneath. bench top is 2 sheets of 3/4" oak plywood glued and screwed together, then bolted to the pallet rack. nice and solid!
 
I used 3/4 chip board. It is hard and will not warp. I polyurethane it about 5 times as it will soak in a lot. keep scmearing it till it shines. Works for me.
 
Make it bigger and heavier than you think you need and make sure it is bolted into the wall studs. I always place a 2X4 leg directly under where the press will be mounted. You want solid. Decide if you want to load standing or sitting for the perfect height. If you're going to sit - buy a very comfortable chair with casters on it. Put some wall shelves above it on the wall for small items and a dedicated shelf for your powder scale. Lastly, provide very good lighting so you can see into the cases when charging. A shadow can get you a squib or a double charge. I use long armed drafting lamps so that I can position the light where I need it. I also put rubber matting or carpet on the top to keep spilled items (primers and brass) from rolling around and going everywhere. If you spill powder on a removable mat it's a simple matter to pick up the mat and pour the powder back into the jug it came from instead of trying to sweep it up off the bench.
 
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My first and best bench was a metal framed, metal topped teachers desk from the 70s that I got when they tore down an old school. Those are few and far between these days but you can get a decent desk body and replace the top (most now are particle board) and be good to go. I'm currently using a metal desk from work (industrial) with its hardwood top. It's almost as nice as the original desk that is still punching out ammo at a former coworkers house.
 
Drail is right about light. I keep a cheap flashlight on my bench specifically for this purpose. I batch load in groups of 100 so each step I do x100. I charge with my load trays on a 35 degree slant so I'm looking straight into them and then it's a quick flashlight check and I'm seating bullets.
 
I screwed a double (metal) old card-file with 2 drawers under the bench top off to the side. It is the right size to hold my most often used die boxes so they are handy.

Whatever size your reloading area is----it will NOT be big enough!
 
A trick I did with my recent loading area build was to make a pattern of holes with 5/16 T nuts underneath along the whole length and up the sides which are set back 6 inches from the front and have a 6 inch spacing between holes. The loading presses and other tooling I use are then bolted to varnished 3/4 thick plywood sub plates which have holes to match the bench top pattern. This lets me switch, alter and otherwise move stuff around as required knowing that the sub bases are universal fitting. It's working out really well.

A good BENCH top, as opposed to a good TABLE top simply cannot be too thick. If it's only for loading presses two layers of good quality 3/4 ply is fine. If you'll be doing any hammering and other high impact work 3 or even 4 layers of 3/4 ply is better at soaking up the rebound from hammer blows.

If laminating a top using screws and glue be sure the top underneath is dead flat and untwisted. If you have to tape down shims to fill in a dip or shim legs to flatten the area used for laminating do so. You want things really good and flat and well supported during the laminating process so your new top will be dead true. It may not seem important now. But at some point you'll use this for other work besides reloading.
 
I did not read every post so my suggestion might already be mentioned. On the top surface, put a 1/4 inch high strip of wood about 1/2 to 1.0 inch wide along the entire edge. This will stop the countless primers, bullets, brass and loaded rounds from dropping to the floor. Of course, this has never happened to me but I thought I toss it out anyhow.

Make sure also that you get an inertia bullet puller. They are cheap at less than 20 bucks and work really well but they must be hit with force on a hard surface to dislodge the bullet. Rather than bang on my loading bench, I use an adjacent bench's steel vice as the surface.

Lastly, my press is a Lee which drops the spent primers into the base of the press. I drilled two holes 1/2 inch diameter through the bench surface over which the press was later bolted. I then added a hopper under the holes to catch the dislodged primers.
 

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I found a copy of the national reloading manufacturing association plans and made my own similar to it. I wanted simple and heavy, bought 4x4's for the legs and bolted to 2x6's around the top then 2x4's around the bottom and plywood for the top. Cost twice as much as buying one so I figure that should be about right.
 
Drail is right about light. I keep a cheap flashlight on my bench specifically for this purpose. I batch load in groups of 100 so each step I do x100. I charge with my load trays on a 35 degree slant so I'm looking straight into them and then it's a quick flashlight check and I'm seating bullets.
That's a great idea. I charge in a batch on a tray too. I think ill make a little stand for the tray at a 35 degree angle. Great idea! Thanks!
 
Mine was fairly expensive but my kids got together and purchased it for me several years ago for Father's Day. Even helped assemble it and install my presses. It's from Grainger:

http://www.grainger.com/product/EDSAL-Workbench-4RYA7?functionCode=P2IDP2PCP

We bolted it to the wall studs in the back and installed adjustable spot lights above the table so I can concentrate light anywhere I want it. I can mount four presses at a time on this table and store powder or brass under it. Shelves above it provide more than adequate storage. Butcher block top is great and very strong. We sealed it with several coats of polyurethane before using it. I couldn't be happier.
 
I just took an old computer desk & reinforced the surface with 2x6s
(that was 5 years ago & still works just fine)

The height is gonna depend on what's comfortable for you.
First, you have to ask yourself, do you wanna stand or sit?

bench4.jpg
 
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