Need advice on Swedish Mauser

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Beetle Bailey

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I'm currently waiting for my C & R license to come in the mail but thought I'd get the ball rolling and a ask for some feedback. I'm interested in buying a Swedish Mauser but am not sure what the best way to go about choosing the model. I only shoot paper at the range, I'm not interested in hunting, and I already have a SKS in case :uhoh: we have another riot here in LA. I'm interested in the Swedish Mauser mainly for its reputation for accuracy :D but don't want the long (IINM 49.6") M96. Even though I've heard that generally longer barrels are more accurate, I prefer the shorter M38 look :rolleyes: . Am I being short-sighted? Does anyone have a preference for one or the other, and if so, why? Any advice would be appreciated, even though my C & R is probably still weeks away :mad: .
 
I guess I should add that the only Swedish Mausers I've handled were a few of the CG marksman-type rifles (not sure of the designation) with the $200 peep-sights when I was at a show last month. BTW, they looked great, but I want a milsurp some Swedish soldier, err. . . had to carry around with him on marches :D . Thanks.
 
I have the M96 and it is a great gun. Actually any of them are nice guns. Buy the best condition Swede you can find. Supplies of the really nice ones are kind of scarce, so you might not be able to be as choosy. The bent bolt model 38's are pretty rare. Straight bolt models more common and the 96's more common still. Mine is very accurate with the iron sights and the action is unbelievably smooth. Opening that bolt is like it is gliding on roller bearings.
 
Start with a nice early M96 and keep looking for a M38 and M94. My M96 is an Oberndorf mfg. in 1898; my M94 is a Carl Gustafstads from 1916. You can't go wrong with almost any Swede. In fact, I found a reasonably nice M94 with the wrong (some cobbled-up wooden) stock in a pawn shop in E. TX a couple of weeks ago for $99. Looked really nice, but I told a friend about it and I took a pass on it. Stick a correct stock on it and it's worth a good bit more.

I hunt primarily with a (now) customized M94 my grandmother found disassembled in a trunk full of old shoes some years ago. Probably been in there for 50 years, judging from the shoes.

Sarco Inc. is the first place I'd look as they seem to have the biggest market on Swedish Mausers.

http://www.sarcoinc.com/guns12.html

Regards,
Rabbit.
 
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I've owned them all (M94, M96, M38 and M96/38) and by far the most "shootable" is the M38 or the M96/38.

The Model 96s are typically your least expensive since they were produced in such large quantities. These days, around $200 is acceptable for a nice one with all matching numbers. For a Model 96/38 or Model 38, you can expect to pay up to $300 for a nice one in the above listed condition. A Model 94? Get the checkbook out. I sold mine last year, which was in pristine condition with all matching numbers (19 numbers total including the front sight blade) and bayonet for $800.

The Model 96 is a little off balance (for me) and gets a little end heavy when holding for too long with no rest. The 38 and 96/38 are joys to fire, and well balanced. As for any velocity increase with the longer barrel, with Norma military surplus ammo, the gain is about 200 FPS at the muzzle.

If you're in SoCal Beetle, and you'd like to handle/fire a few different models, we can certainly make that arrangement via e-mail. At the moment, we (the wife and I) have 2 CG Model 96/38, 1 Husky Model 38, and one CG Model 96 with a BIG scope on it.

Take care,

Dave
 
Get the M96. It's the best inexpensive rifle I bet you'll ever buy! We love ours! $200 or less, depending on your luck. I got one all matching (except for the cleaning rod) for $140 a couple years ago. I LOVE my Swede!

Heck, get both the M96 & M38! But nothing beats having a pike arm (gotta mount the bayo first) when ya run outta bullets! :D
 
Love my 1921 model 96 - accurate, and easy on the shoulder. Bought it several years ago for $75.00, with two boxes of ammo. If you decide to buy one, go to http://pub113.ezboard.com/bparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums and read about the information on the stock discs, etc.

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Since you're getting your C&R, look at the info on Swiss K-31's at the same site. I am a terrible prognosticator, but I think these rifles are at incredibly low prices right now for the quality received. I just got one from Southern Ohio Guns for $108.95 + $10.00 hand picked; liked it so much, ordered another one the same day I got the first one!

Wait a minute, what am I doing ?!? These are terrible guns, and none of you should want them (and thereby drive up the prices).
 
As with any gun, there are minute details, but two biggest are that the model 94 has a barrel slightly less than 18" long, while the 96's pipe is at 29"'s. The 94 has a bent bolt, and the 96 has a straight bolt. One other difference is that the 94's are mucho mas dinero.
 
Here's a comparison picture between the 96, 96/38 and the 94:

trio1.jpg


Another difference between the 96, 96/38, 38 and the 94 is the 94 actually has a shorter pull on the stock. I guess it must have been made for small folk. :)

Here's a larger pic of what USED to be my 94:

large94.jpg


And the Model 94 bayonet:

bayo2.jpg


Those bayonets start at about $100 for VERY crummy examples.
 
M94's were intended for Artillery and Engineering units from what I've learned. Primarily was issued to non-front line units. The M96 was intended for the men on the front. The M38 is the internediate length intended as a substitute/replacement for the longer (full-length) M96 and was introduced ca. 1938 IIRC. The M94 has a factory bent bolt handle whereas the M96 has a straight bolt handle.

The M94 and M96 bayonets are not interchangeable. M94 bayonets are pretty uncommon in the US.

Regards,
Rabbit.
 
Sylvilagus,

That's pretty much what I've read in my research as well regarding the Model 94, et al. It seems that most countries adopted the shorter (23"-24") barrel length between WWI and WWII. This was perhaps due to the dawning idea that "pike" warfare was becoming a thing of the past, and the shorter version was much easier to handle.

There are a few variations on the Model 96 regarding bent bolts that you are probably familiar with. Husqvarna did make a *few* bent bolt Model 96s, which are pretty rare as well as the M41 sniper version of the Model 96, which also had the bent bolt.

Unfortunately, there is much conflicting evidence regarding the Swedish Mausers from different sources of information. A fine example would have been my Model 94, which was manufactured in 1932, and some sources have the Model 94s last year of manufacture as 1918-19, if I recall correctly. In fact, I think I came up with only one source which verified that there were some made in the early 30s, but that was just a website that collected serial number/year information from those that wished to submit it.

All in all, you probably can't find a better Mauser manufacturer than Sweden was, unless it would have been Germany up until early WWII. But, that is just my opinion. :)
 
Thanks for all the input

Wow, this is my first thread and I'm glad it's not a total dud. Thanks to Makarov, Sylvilagus, Damnathius, Vic303, Bullet Bob, and Futo Inu. I think I'll try to hunt down a M38 (nothing against the M96) but they seem to be a bit thin on the ground (and expensive) on the online auctions. I'll bite the bullet and pay market prices for something if it's what I really want, but I don't as a personal rule want to overpay because I think a buyer who overpays hurts other buyers.

I noticed that samcoglobal.com has very good condition M38s with cracked stocks for something like $170. I could then go to sarcoinc.com and buy a M38 stock for I think $40 and just do a quick little switch. Or samcoglobal.com has very good condition Husqvarna M38 for something like $320 (I forget the exact prices). Anyone care to share their thoughts on whether either, both, or neither of these options are a good way to go?

Thanks,
Beetle

P.S. Bullet Bob, I've been thinking about the K-31:D (and the M1 Garand, and the MN 91/30 PU Sniper, and the Eddystone Enfield, and the regular plain old German Mauser, and the . . .) :uhoh: Darn C&R license!
 
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"Damn C&R license"

Tee hee. :) Ya know, after some recent threads on the K31 I got one at a gunshow couple weeks back, and man there's something about that one. I fondle it daily; it is so sweet. If you want a K-98, there's an ad in Shotgun News from an outfit (forget which) advertising something like "the only 'Grade 1' K-98 German Mausers available" - they're some of the Russian captures.
 
"Damn C&R license"

I just got another M-39 yesterday.
I feel your pain.:D
 
Futo,

The M38s were made by the Husqvarna factory in Sweden, specifically as the M38 Short Rifle, and according to semi reliable data, around 70,000 were made. The Model 96/38 is the Carl Gustafs and Oberndorf Model 96 factory shortened to M38 specs with 100-600 meter sights replacing the 300-600 meter sights of the Model 96. Estimates are in the 30,000 range for these conversions.

There are other minor differences, but the most prominent that I have noticed is the Husqvarna M38s I have handled have "fatter" stocks than the 96/38, and don't seem to fit the metal *quite* as well. This is not to say that they are "bad" at all, but just a matter of feel and aesthetics for me.

BB, if you are looking to save some money and don't mind a mismatched (serial numbers) rifle, then take the less expensive route. However, I think you can still come up with some bargains at auctionarms.com. My wife and I just picked up a very good condition 96/38 with all matching numbers for $150 at a local gun shop about two months ago, so bargains can still be found in shops as well.
 
"Get a Glock"? Why, that's just what I was thinking. A Glock would make a fine, non-marring barrel band removal tool for a Swedish Mauser. Lots of plastic so it won't scratch! It could then be used to prop the garage door open for ventilation. :)

Mikke, the M94 is actually second only to the M96 in production quantity at around 113,000. Of course they seem to be rarer here in the US than the others. It might be due to the fact that they were the first to be imported, and many, if not most of those were perhaps hacked up into sporters.
 
a little edit

Hey, I editted my post about the "darn C&R license" :scrutiny: 'cuz I wouldn't say that in front of my Grandmother (and 'cuz it looks like I'm setting a bad example for the other forum members :p ).

And BamBam31, why would I buy a glock when for the same price I can get what I really want, a nice looking gun with a soul :neener: ? Just kidding, a glock wouldn't be a bad choice in a dark alley.
 
You know what, Damnathius, the more I think about it, the more I think I should hold out for something nice (and I don't mean the glock :p ). Thanks to all, even BamBam31!
 
Cheating on the M39 already....tsk, tsk, tsk.

And if you read between the lines, C&R spells B-R-O-K-E. Consider yourself warned.

Real reason for the M38 bug: M39 wouldn't fit in the Swiss Rifle Backpack!! Bad sign, buying guns to fit the accessories. I'd never do that.... :rolleyes:

Seriously, how can you go wrong with any of the Swedes? Look at the pics above. Purdier than Monica Bellucci.

Hey, what's a good source for 6.5x55? Ammoman's got some Federal for 0.40/rd. Anywhere else?
 
The Mod. 94 was indeed used by artillery, engineers and cavalry units. My dear old dad was issued one in the early 20's as a member of the Royal Wendes Artillery Regiment (A3). One of the training exercises involved fixing bayonets, leaning over from the saddle and stabbing straw dummies laying prone in the field, all the while at a gallop. When I asked if anyone lost his carbine that way he just laughed.
They are great guns, mine, with a pitted bore, still shoots under 2" at 100 yds..
 
Ammo

Bam-Bam,

We get our 6.5x55 from Samco. It is (usually) Norma iron core milsurp at a decent price. We haven't tried the Hirtenberger ammo also listed, as the Swedish mfg. is perfectly suitable for general shooting, and is the stuff the Swedes used in their arms. It is also less expensive than the Federal.
http://www.samcoglobal.com/ammo.html

Something to be aware of is that all US made 6.5x55 is based on a necked down 30-06 case, which has a smaller head diameter than the actual 6.5x55 round. It's been a few years since I measured it, but I recall it is .005" smaller in diameter. Also, it is less powerful than the Norma milsurp, due to obvious reasons of liability involved with "old" firearms. This seems to be the case with any US made obsolete round.

We don't use anything but the Norma milsurp. When buying this ammo, it is possible to get a batch manufactured at another Northern European factory, but it seems that Norma is the most prevalant.
 
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