Need Help Colt 1991A1

[chains1240]

So I have been shopping around for a 1911. One of my LGS has a stainless 1991A1 with a beaver tail grip safety with memory bump, and arched mainspring housing. There is a noticeable looseness to the slide/frame fit and there are quite a few scratches on it. The trigger is also plastic. Other than the trigger and arched grip I like the feel and balance of the commander size Colt. The asking price is $575. Should I take another look at it or save for a brand new Colt or other new pistol? Anything else I should be looking at as far as the quality of this particular gun?

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Can you shoot it before you buy? That's not a bad price if the gun shoots well.

Many M1911s rattle a bit and still shoot well. You can replace both the mainspring housing and the trigger -- but check the prices on quality parts (Chip McCormic or equivallent) before you buy the gun, and mentally add that onto the purchase price.

 

[chains1240]

I cannot shoot it before I buy it. I will keep looking for something new. I liked the balance of the commander size versus the fullsize. I cannot afford a $1000 new gun. I may get a G.I. model then upgrade the hammer and grip safety someday. I liked the regular thumb safety vs. the extended kind. It was easier for me to use.

 

[Zerodefect]

Take another look at it. Used is probally the best way to get a Colt 1911. That price is reasonable.

Close your eyes and drag your finger nail across the scratches. If you can feel them, pass, can't feel them...buy it. 1911 finishes scratch. That's just the way it is. Hard, strong 1911 finishes are quite expensive and not usually found on 1911's under $1500. But I avoid deep gouges as they'll be harder to bead blast out when the 1911 is eventually due for a refinish.

Keep in mind you can cut down and re-shape the thumb safety. One of the reason why the Huge Ed Brown big paddle safety is popular. It's too big for most everyone, but you have plenty of material to work with and shape.


When I buy a used gun that I can't shoot. I let them know that I'm a serious buyer. "Can I by this gun used, and if It runs like poo, can I trade it back in, as long as a order a new 1911 from you?" My local shop will let me return a 1911, it's allready used anyways, as long as I'm buying something, and they know I'm not going to put any further abuse on it . Since I'm a regular customer...... But they aren't so nice to lesser customers.

The loose slide fit is normal for Colts. The under $1000 1911's are pretty much better off that way. Save the tight fit guns for the Semi-custom market where they builder can spend more time getting it right. Just make sure the barrel hood can't be moved easy when the guns in battery.

This advice assumes you allready have a Glock, M&P, etc. If a defensive gun is needed on a budget of $600, those are safer bets.

I prefere the series 70 without the silly FP safety. Something to look for. The 100 year special model GI reproduction is tough looking and a Series 70.

 

[chains1240]

I like the safety on the Colt as is. I can easily activate it with the joint of my thumb. The scratches do not appear deep. Not that I really care. I have a Kel Tec P11 for one of my carry guns. And a 1911 looks and feels better than a M&P and certainly better than a Glock. I say that because I always shoot a Glock to the left. My LGS has the used Colt, a new R1 and a new RIA.

 

[Jimfern]

1991

I got a deal on a 1991 Commander and have been very happy with it. I did have a Smith and Alexander grip safety and MSH added, but don't mind the plastic trigger at all. Grips are long gone, also replaced with Smith and Alexander Coco Bolo grips.

 

[Too_Pure]

If it's a 1991 with a beavertail it has been messed with and you should definitely inspect it inside and out before paying anything. Maybe it was improved. Maybe it was ruined.

 

[Skylerbone]

I dream of the day I see a used Colt 1911 of any variety. It's literally been years since I've seen one surface at any local dealers. New? None available.

If it is within your budget, can pass a few cursory tests (depending on the cooperation level of the LGS) and you can afford the aforementioned replacement parts I'd say buy it quick. Take note of the aftermarket parts already installed and evaluate whether their fitting was professional or home hackery.

 

[chains1240]

Since I know basically nothing about upgrading a 1911 I think I would not be able to spot something that was wrong with the upgrades done tot he used Colt. I will have to wait and but a new 1911 of a less expensive brand.

 

[Skylerbone]

You can do a bit of quick research on safety testing for function. The bit I mentioned about aftermarket parts deals with the fit. Is the beavertail even and blended well with the frame or are there gaps, wear marks on the sides, do the frame tangs match the contours. If the frame was cut and the beavertail fit properly then there's no reason to discount this one, plenty of people modify this area in particular.

I still think it would be a smart buy, assuming you take time to learn the platform which would be advisable with any 1911.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

I’ve been thinking about this – and I’d like Tuner and Old Fluff and others to chime in – a sort of peer review.

1. If you don’t like how a gun looks, don’t buy it. But for myself, I’ve bought a lot of good guns with scratches and so on. I like to find a good gun like that – I use the dents and dings to knock the price down.

2. A rattle isn’t necessarily a defect. First of all, what is rattling, the slide and frame, or the grip safety? Next, Jeff Cooper delighted in showing people how his personal M1911 rattled, and then demonstrated some fancy shooting with the same gun.

3. If a seller won’t let you shoot the gun, ask him about a money-back return policy. Ask for a month. If he says no, drop it down to a week. And be ready to wring the gun out during that time – as a minimum have plenty of ammo and magazines of different brands.

4. Your first priority should be reliability – I’ll accept less accuracy from a gun that is dead reliable. I look for 500 rounds with the ammo of choice with no stoppages (assuming a good magazine.)

5. Determine how much accuracy you need. Do you have to be able to hit a quarter at 25 yards? Or would a softball do? Or a basketball?

6. Get a copy of The Colt .45 Automatic, A Shop Manual by Jerry Kuhnhausen (VSB Publishers) for a discussion of things you can do to improve accuracy, and the tools needed.

7. Get a set of links before you shoot. If accuracy isn’t quite what you want, try a longer link. An added benefit here (if the gun will take the longer link) is not only a bit tighter lockup, but also you avoid “stopping on the link” which can ruin your barrel by pulling the link lug away from the barrel. See Kuhnhausen on how to check for proper link length.

8. You can improve slide to frame fit by peening or swaging. See Kuhnhausen

 

[CAWalter]

I agree with Vern except perhaps the oft missed Old Fuff, not Fluff. Besides that I fully agree, and the OP must come to terms with what he wants to do, and willing to do. Fixing, tuning , upgrading yourself, is a pleasure and adds enjoyment to the experience, but if you aren't willing, or capable, and would be paying a GS to do the work, you may as well buy something you can lean on the warranty.

CAW

 

[1911Tuner]

Sounds like you pretty much hit the nail square on the hittin' place, Vern.

I guess I'm in the minority on a lot of these questions. Scratches, a little ding here and that in non-critical places, and finish wear don't really mean a lot to me, and I'm more concerned with how the gun runs rather than how pretty it is and worrying over 25 yard groups measured in fractions of inches. At this point in my life, I can't see a half-inch circle at 25 yards...much less hit it.

 

[Dr Who]

$575 for 1991A1 that has been "tinkered" with is no good deal for a first 1911 IMO.



If it`s "loose" it doesn`t sound like one of the guns Colt made after Gen. Keys arrived in the late 1990`s,I believe, and Colt began building with new CNC machinery and at the same time instituting rigorous QC. Those were very good, well fit & finished guns ( even with the black plastic triggers )

 

[chains1240]

After doing a little research I will have to take a second look at this Colt 1991. According to Colt's web site the commander size 1991 comes with a beavertail grip safety. I will have to make sure the grip safety does ont have a speed bump. Maybe the only thing on this pistol that was changed is the front sight and main spring housing. $575.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Why would you not want a speed bump? It's designed to ensure positive disengagement of the grip safety when shooting "modern pistol" style -- two handed.

On the other hand, if it doesn't have a speed bump and you want to add one, you can simply stick on a bit of Mole Foam (tm) available at the foot care section in any drug store.

 

[chains1240]

I wanted to double check if the firearm had a speed bump to see if the grip safety was added later or if it is the stock piece. Looking at this used pistol for $575 or a new American Classic Commander for $500. 1991 brand new is about $900. Since I know very little I do not know if the Colt is actually worth the almost double price new.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Look at it this way -- if a new gun is worth $900 and a good used gun is around $600 and you buy the new gun -- in a couple of years it'll be a good used gun worth around $600!

Buy it after it has depreciated, and save the difference.

 

[Skylerbone]

It's almost the weekend and I'm tempted to make a run to Michigan for MY new used Colt;-).

Lots of stock Colt beavertails got swapped out because the OEM part wasn't fit very well, lacked the speed bump and was ugly.

Ask the shop owner for any known history on it as previous owners are often frequent buyers and barter a bit on price. If you can find some snap caps and he'll let you cycle them, along with other function tests, you should have a good idea as to whether it works or doesn't. If he has another 1911 in the shop that is new you'll also have something to compare it to.