That's not uncommon. There's a relief on the frame to allow the cylinder to be closed more easily and that allows the round in that position to slide backwards out of the cylinder. As that round moves up under the hammer, there's a ramp on the frame that will cam it back fully into the chamber. That's the point where the trigger pull gets hard in Derek's gun, so it might be possible that there's something making it hard to fully seat the round in question as that would make the trigger stiffen up when the round hits the ramp and the cylinder turning is trying to push the round forward.
Need help with a new GP-100
- Thread starter Derek Zeanah
- Start date
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
Dumb question, but I didn’t see it addressed.
Do you have carbon buildup in that chamber thus causing the case to rub the back of the frame?
EDIT: I just realized this is a new GP100. Is there any kind of buildup in that chamber?
If not I would call Ruger.
(336) 949-5200
Do you have carbon buildup in that chamber thus causing the case to rub the back of the frame?
EDIT: I just realized this is a new GP100. Is there any kind of buildup in that chamber?
If not I would call Ruger.
(336) 949-5200
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OP
OP
Yeah, it's was clean, and I made it cleaner.
Went ahead and sent them an e-mail referencing the photos on this page. I think this one'll need to go back.
Then I'll need recommendations on where to send this for a trigger job, and getting the chambers chamfered. I mean, it looks like that's something I can do myself, but if there's someone reliable who I know will do it right...
Then we need to decide whether I need expensive fancy grips or not. It seems like those rubber grips with wood inserts do a good job of combining the easy shooting of rubber while minimizing its effect on clothing when carrying...
Decisions, decisions. It's like you're not done with a gun purchase after you buy it. There's always something else...
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
When I bought my GP100 it came with the ugly Hogue Monogrip. At first I wanted to change it then after shooting it I really like the grip. I don’t concealed carry it though. I open carry in the woods and fishing.
amd6547
Member
My 3” GP didn’t need any trigger work… It came out of the box with a smooth DA trigger, and a great SA trigger.
As far as grips…
Mine came with the Hogue finger groove rubber grip. I used that for a couple range trips, and it worked fine.
Found an original Ruger compact Lett grip, and that’s what I use generally, since it shoots fine, and fits the CCW role better.
Never one to leave well enough alone, I tried a Hogue laminated wood grip. They looked great, but at the range, using magnum ammo, they slammed the inside of my thumb pretty bad… I think they are a little thick there, I will have to hit them with the dremmel sanding drum to pare them down a bit. At that point, I might go all out, and remove one or both finger grooves, and round the bottom edge a bit…I will have to refinish anyway.
Finally, I got a deal on a Hogue rubber grip with no finger grooves. I like that one a lot. I’ve done it, but it’s a little big for CCW.
Yeah…I’ve got a GP100 grip problem, lol.
As far as grips…
Mine came with the Hogue finger groove rubber grip. I used that for a couple range trips, and it worked fine.
Found an original Ruger compact Lett grip, and that’s what I use generally, since it shoots fine, and fits the CCW role better.
Never one to leave well enough alone, I tried a Hogue laminated wood grip. They looked great, but at the range, using magnum ammo, they slammed the inside of my thumb pretty bad… I think they are a little thick there, I will have to hit them with the dremmel sanding drum to pare them down a bit. At that point, I might go all out, and remove one or both finger grooves, and round the bottom edge a bit…I will have to refinish anyway.
Finally, I got a deal on a Hogue rubber grip with no finger grooves. I like that one a lot. I’ve done it, but it’s a little big for CCW.
Yeah…I’ve got a GP100 grip problem, lol.
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amd6547
Member
Nah, they are the same material as the OEM finger groove grip.
I’m not recoil sensitive… For example, I preferred the small wood Magna grip/Tgrip combo on the 2.5” Model 19 I had, and found magnum ammo no problem. But, that wood Hogue on the GP gave me pain, using 145gn Silvertip 357’s.
So that will be a project grip.
Dave DeLaurant
Member
Has this question already been asked: does the problem go away when dry firing with no ammo or dummies chambered?
OP
OP
Yes, it does.
I had a brand new sp101 that was squeaky and the hammer would hang up making it completely inoperable. There was rust in the hammer dog assembly preventing it from working correctly. I disassembled and cleaned the gun and it worked correctly, but it's still stiff and a bit creaky.
I recommend picking up a set of feeler gauges and checking some clearances on your own. The problem could be made obvious in a few seconds and it may be easy to fix with a few swipes of a file or some sandpaper.
I recommend picking up a set of feeler gauges and checking some clearances on your own. The problem could be made obvious in a few seconds and it may be easy to fix with a few swipes of a file or some sandpaper.
eddiememphis
Member
Since it goes away when empty, it points to an ammo related problem. Find one of the cases that have the too thick rim.
Take a sharpie and mark the front of the cylinder and the offending cartridge.
If just the cartridge gets scrape marks, then that points to the cartridge not seating deep enough. Check the extractor for damage- burrs or high spots. You may also be able to see where it is hitting on the frame and look for issues there as well.
If they both get scrape marks then you have a clearance problem between the cylinder and forcing cone as well- the offending cartridge is forcing the cylinder forward enough to make contact.
Take a sharpie and mark the front of the cylinder and the offending cartridge.
If just the cartridge gets scrape marks, then that points to the cartridge not seating deep enough. Check the extractor for damage- burrs or high spots. You may also be able to see where it is hitting on the frame and look for issues there as well.
If they both get scrape marks then you have a clearance problem between the cylinder and forcing cone as well- the offending cartridge is forcing the cylinder forward enough to make contact.
Pudge
Member
I would place my money on JohnKSa's suggestion. I suspect the round isn't fully seating and dragging on the frame. Shoot a cylinder, leave the empties in and see if it is still as stiff. If that eases up the trigger pull, I'd clean and clean that chamber.
WrongHanded
Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2017
- Messages
- 4,771
This is exactly what I see. I even had a GP100 that had the same problem. It got worse as carbon built up on the cylinder face, and better when I scrubbed it clean.
I opted to file the forcing cone back a little to get some clearance, and I recommend against doing that.
JTHunter
Member
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
JTHunter
Member
I see we both have good taste.
Bought that way at a pawn shop about 10-11 years ago. About 2018, was able to find (and win) an auction on Gunbroker for a Marlin 1894 made in the late 90s ("JM" stamped). Two years ago, I "acquired" my mother's SP-101 .38 Sp. stainless snubbie. I like to "combine" handguns and rifles. A .22LR bolt and 10/22 with a Ruger Single Six Convertible. Then, that same Ruger revolver combined with a .22 Mag bolt rifle and a Keltec PMR-30.
whatnickname
Member
You can improve the trigger by replacing the trigger return and hammer springs with Wolff springs. I’ve found that in most cases an 8 pound trigger return spring and a 10 pound hammer spring produce a better trigger pull along with reliable ignition. There are exceptions. I’ve got a 5” blue steel GP100 in 44 Special that will not reliably return the trigger with an 8 pound return spring. Had to up the poundage to 10 pounds. Just acquired a 2.5” 7 shot GP100 that had two rounds out of 50 that did not fire shooting single action. This was unusual as most mis-fires with reduced power hammer springs occur when firing double action. Upped the poundage to 12 hammer spring…OEM hammer spring is 14 pounds. These things can be a bit of trial and error, but Wolff springs aren’t very expensive. Takes about 10 minutes to swap the springs out. Give it a try and then decide if you want to pay for a trigger job.
As for recommendations for a gunsmith to do the work, there are two excellent choices in your part of the country. The first is Bob Coogan at Accurate Plating and Weaponry in Alabama. I’ve done business with Bob since we both lived in Central Florida (Pinellas County). His work is top notch! The other choice is Clark Custom Guns in Louisiana. These folks have done a few special projects for me and are equally excellent.
Please let us know what Ruger says about your revolver…I’m still betting it’s a headspace problem.
Best wishes!
giggitygiggity
Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2009
- Messages
- 2,251
Contact Ruger customer service. They will make it right and likely do so quickly. And you won’t have to spend time, money, and frustration troubleshooting and fixing something that is on the manufacturer to correct.
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Riomouse911
Member
I also saw what looks like the cylinder touching the forcing cone in the same picture.
Feeler gauges are your friend. You can check the front B/C gap for each chamber as well as confirm the rear isn’t wobbling causing the particular cartridge case to rub against the rear of the cylinder opening.
I do get an issue with dirty rimfire chambers causing fresh cartridges in many of my revolvers to hang up. I honed all of my rimfire chambers, and most of my center fires, with a proper-caliber flex hone to smooth/polish the chambers. The sticky case issues ended and stuff seats/ejects easily. This also might help your issue a bit if the round is being held a touch proud-of-flush by a rough chamber…and of course the cylinder is not dragging.
Stay safe.
Feeler gauges are your friend. You can check the front B/C gap for each chamber as well as confirm the rear isn’t wobbling causing the particular cartridge case to rub against the rear of the cylinder opening.
I do get an issue with dirty rimfire chambers causing fresh cartridges in many of my revolvers to hang up. I honed all of my rimfire chambers, and most of my center fires, with a proper-caliber flex hone to smooth/polish the chambers. The sticky case issues ended and stuff seats/ejects easily. This also might help your issue a bit if the round is being held a touch proud-of-flush by a rough chamber…and of course the cylinder is not dragging.
Stay safe.
OP
OP
Well, I got this back today but I'm just not up for shooting today.
The work order says
RETURNING FIREARM
NEW GRIP PANELS, CYLINDER AND PAWL, FIRED 14 ROUNDS NO ISSUES.
REPAIR, SAFETY FUNCTION CHECK, PROOFED, RANGE TEST & CLEANING HAS BEEN COMPLETED. RELEASED FOR SHIPPING.
Ruger covered shipping both ways, and I'm pretty happy with the turnaround time.
The work order says
RETURNING FIREARM
NEW GRIP PANELS, CYLINDER AND PAWL, FIRED 14 ROUNDS NO ISSUES.
REPAIR, SAFETY FUNCTION CHECK, PROOFED, RANGE TEST & CLEANING HAS BEEN COMPLETED. RELEASED FOR SHIPPING.
Ruger covered shipping both ways, and I'm pretty happy with the turnaround time.
eddiememphis
Member
How does the cylinder to forcing cone clearance look?
OP
OP
Consistent, and not slanted. Just straight across.
IWAC
Member
That is nowhere near acceptable for any revolver. Call Ruger Customer Service, explain your problem and see what they say. Careful there, tho. I hadd a Wiley Clapp GP 100, and sent it to Ruger for a couple of small problelms. I was told that they would have to replace it. No problem. I'd rather have the Clapp version, but I got a Matcfh Champion out of the deal. Good Luck!
