Need help with new scope

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I don't know which base was used on the receiver (I think some of the 10/22s come with a base in the packaging). However one of the headaches people run into is that not all weaver and picatinny or clones thereof mate up correctly with one another. Running on the assumption you have the base attached solidly now, I would start with simply laying a yardstick or any other straightedge item flat across the base to check that the base runs straight with the barrel. The base should be flat on the receiver with no gaps under it holding it up to a light. Once you have that confirmed, the scope rings should do the same - attached solid to the base with no gaps/lifting evident. If it's not seated completely down and snugged up without gaps, then you have a compatibility issue which needs different base/ring combination. Once those are worked out the scope should be centered and true to the barrel.
 
One other quick item to check - the scope is seated on the tube, not the bell area? Sometime the rings are a little too far forward on the scope and part of the bell ends up in the ring so it cannot fully seat into it. Try moving the ring back a 1/4 inch.
 
One other quick item to check - the scope is seated on the tube, not the bell area? Sometime the rings are a little too far forward on the scope and part of the bell ends up in the ring so it cannot fully seat into it. Try moving the ring back a 1/4 inch.

It's completely on the tube area.
 
The base screws really need to be properly torqued with thread locker. Unless you have an educated thumb. Which I'm not "feeling here!

I mounted a Weaver style base and 30 year old Weaver scope on a "Friends Of the NRA Ruger 10/22" yesterday for my daughter. Because of the screw size the base was tightened to 20 inch pounds with red Locktite.

The big screws with the "coin" slots should be snug plus 1/2 turn using a "quarter" if you don't have the T/D!!

The screws holding the rings must be properly torqued (20-24 inch #'s) in sequence so that the clamp is equal and has the same gap on each. It takes a little effort but "do-able" with thumb pressure. Say snug plus 1/2 turn!

For mounting scopes I always put a tiny rubber band around the scope under the rings. These are from my daughter when she wore braces. You know the tiny rubber bands! This keeps the scope from moving under recoil.

Full disclosure I don't claim to know anything and have never stayed in a fancy hotel!! Well maybe once....

Smiles,
 
Before I got a steel bar to do it, I used an old bsa airgun scope. Never caused any visible damage, but the thing was never any good as a scope anyway.
 
I used the handles on a big set of needlenose pliers for a time until I got a couple of the Leupold tools. They were free or I’d of kept using the needlenose.
 
I used the handles on a big set of needlenose pliers for a time until I got a couple of the Leupold tools. They were free or I’d of kept using the needlenose.
I did it with a screw driver a time or two, but for some reason I was afraid I'd tweek a ring so put the old scope to use. I don't think It hurt the rings using the screwdriver as a lever, but I could have used a dowl or something just as easily, and it would have been less worrisome (to me).
 
I also have a one inch dowel that I can use if I needed to but it’s not used for that purpose. When using Leupold Std. rings I put the dowel in the ring lowers, install the top halves and crank them down. I have the notion, possibly misguided, that this aligns the front dovetail with the rear ring and therefore stresses the scope less when I mount it.
 
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