Scope adjustment or holdover

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kmw1954

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Ran into a situation last week while shooting in our winter league. Shooting at a 200 yard target with a 3/4" bullseye I could not adjust to hold dead-on. The scope is an Athlon Argos 8-34X56 with 1/10 Mil clicks.

Shots were wide left just outside the bull, one click moved impact to exactly the same distance outside the bull to the right. Same happened with elevation so I shot the whole day trying to use holdover. needless to say the results were not very spectacular.

Have yet to try and zero the scope to 300 yards which is our next target. this should be interesting.

Suggestions?
 
Click as closely as you can, and hold “favor” to account for fractional offsets.

That is what I was trying my best to do but I wasn't very successful. What I tried to do was take the crosshair + and put the bull circle into the upper right of the crosshair. I had a hard time holding that position. But when I could hold it, it worked out to where I needed to be.
 
1/10 mil is approximately 1/3" at 100 yards. Will be 2/3" at 200 and a full inch at 300. That is how far each click of the scope is going to change POI. Not much else you can do if looking for that level of precision. Most rifles and shooters aren't good enough for that to matter. You're going to just have to learn how much to hold off to get hits at various ranges. If you think this is tough wait till you have to compensate for wind.
 
I use either scopes with ballistic reticles (like the ACOG) which are designed for holds, Horus reticles (which are designed for holds, with the data for the caliber/round being used obtained through ballistic software, or mildot reticles like the MK4, which are dialed using turrets for the caliber/round used for the application.
 
Get a scope that can adjust in between clicks, or follow @Varminterror’s advise.

As stated in my first post the hold-off didn't turn out so well. I do understand how it works. This scope even has the Christmas tree reticle to assist. I just have not mastered it. A few of the other shooters in the league are using scopes with 1/8"MOA clicks. I have tried searching for them with also no luck.

jmr40 @100yds one click is .360", 200yd. is .720" and 300yd is 1.08" so I have also considered moving to an MOA scope instead of a MRAD. Because it to would reduce the click angle. Granted not a lot dut enough to make a difference.
 
As stated in my first post the hold-off didn't turn out so well. I do understand how it works. This scope even has the Christmas tree reticle to assist. I just have not mastered it. A few of the other shooters in the league are using scopes with 1/8"MOA clicks. I have tried searching for them with also no luck.

jmr40 @100yds one click is .360", 200yd. is .720" and 300yd is 1.08" so I have also considered moving to an MOA scope instead of a MRAD. Because it to would reduce the click angle. Granted not a lot dut enough to make a difference.
just my opinion, but if you can hold well enough to HIT a 1" target at 300yds, you can learn to hold OFF correctly to hit the target at 300yds, and that's what id do.
Switching to MOA is only going to give you about 1/4" finer adjustments at that range.



my dad has https://sightron.com/products/siii-long-range-10-50x60 on his 6.5CM, it's a fantastic scope especially for the 800 bucks I think he paid for it on amazon.
 
My XRS II was between clicks on windage, but I figured out how to adjust it between clicks.

I have since replaced it (it’s on hold sitting in the safe), and got luckier with the new one, pretty much dead on horizontally. A bullet hole or so high, but that didn’t hurt anything in its first match, I hit the small plate at 900 plus twice with my dope.

100 yard zero, one up/right was me
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I agree with what everyone has said. Figuring out hold overs is the easy part, especially if you already know your DOPE and/or are using a ballistics app. Making adjustments for wind just takes practice and more practice. Wind never stays constant when you want it to.
 
That you all. Not quite the answers I was looking for. This whole problem is not making adjustments to get on target ot figuring out "DOPE".

The whole issue is in making the fine adjustment to bring the scope on ZERO. When one click up or down is too much or one click right or left is too much. Guess that would be trying to meet a Dead Hold. That is what I ran into last weekend. Not being able to make a Dead Hold for when I did I was out of the bull on every shot.

But I will work on my Hold and see if I can improve.
 
I don’t do mils but I do use 1/8 minute clicks on my lr scopes.
That’s 1/8 inch per click at 100 yards or .125 so if mils are 1/10 per click or .100 how do you get .360 ?

As stated in my first post the hold-off didn't turn out so well. I do understand how it works. This scope even has the Christmas tree reticle to assist. I just have not mastered it. A few of the other shooters in the league are using scopes with 1/8"MOA clicks. I have tried searching for them with also no luck.

jmr40 @100yds one click is .360", 200yd. is .720" and 300yd is 1.08" so I have also considered moving to an MOA scope instead of a MRAD. Because it to would reduce the click angle. Granted not a lot dut enough to make a difference.
 
In a perfect world you would be able to dial in your scope and be right on target. But nothing is perfect. Most of the time I don't even touch the dials on my scopes, I just use hold overs when using a MIL-DOT or Christmas tree reticle. This is where learning and recording your DOPE comes into play.
 
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I think you will find it easier with more practice. All of my target scopes have 1/8th inch clicks for that reason. I'm thinking you just bought this scope? It seems a shame to trade it off so soon. I would give yourself some time to get used to it.
 
I'm thinking you just bought this scope? It seems a shame to trade it off so soon. I would give yourself some time to get used to it.

Not new, been using this for almost a year already but most of the shooting I had been doing was load development and just shooting for groups and not trying to make minute adjustments, This is the first time actually shooting for scores. The next target will be at 300yds and has a 10X ring of 1.5"
 
i used to have this problem all the time with the S&B PMII 5-25x. I could never get the windage right. I was either on the left or right side and one click would swap me to the other instead of in the middle. Then I switched to the vortex gen2 razor which solved this problem in theory by making the zero independent of clicks. you could zero anywhere and make that your click. as it turned out, this only caused me to waste countless ammo and barrel life trying to get the scope perfectly adjusted. i was far better off just being within 1 click and not worrying about it.
 
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