I just got my Granddaddy's S&W 38 Special CTG. I know it was bought before 1972, because that was the year that my Granddaddy died. He owned a Motel and two gas stations and had this gun for his protection against someone robbing him. It is nickel plated with mother of pearl handles, it has a 3" barrel. It has 38 S&W Special CTG on rightside of barrel, on top of barrel I can only read SA Patented and under that I see 09 DEC 29 14. It looks like the the site is on top of part of the information that is there. And on the leftside of the barrel it has Smith & Wesson. It is a double action 6 shot. The serial number on bottom of hand grip is 3175**. So the only thing that I know about this gun is that it is at least 35 years old. Hopefully someone can tell me about when it was made and anything else I might need to know about this gun.
Need Info on S&W 38 Special CTG
- Thread starter t-bone68
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Sounds like a M&P (Military & Police) which was later known as the Model 10. The "S&W .38 Special CTG" stamped on the barrel is actually the cartridge the revolver is chambered for not the name of the revolver. The barrel is also most likely a 4 incher as you have to measure from the forcing cone (which is right in front of the cylinder) to the muzzle. The barrel screws into the frame and sticks out the other side so you have to measure all of it. That serial number should put it being made somewhere around 1920.
Majic, Just wanted to Thank You for the information you gave me. I don't know anything about guns, but then again, most women don't. The gun is special to me because it was my Granddaaddy's and I wanted to know a little bit of the history. Thanks again!!!
Jim Watson
Member
If the front sight covers any of the top-of-barrel markings, the barrel was likely shortened and the front sight soldered back down.
That big bold CTG on S&W barrels seems to fascinate novices, they seem to think it must have some great mystical meaning. Just an abbreviation for cartridge, though.
That big bold CTG on S&W barrels seems to fascinate novices, they seem to think it must have some great mystical meaning. Just an abbreviation for cartridge, though.
1)If you post pictures (especially ones of any markings), people here will be able to help you, and admire the gun all in one!!!
2)call up Smith and Wesson. If you tell them the serial number, they will be able to tell you the date of manufacture.
3)sounds like you've got a pretty nice gun there, with a lot of sentimental value. Well done.
2)call up Smith and Wesson. If you tell them the serial number, they will be able to tell you the date of manufacture.
3)sounds like you've got a pretty nice gun there, with a lot of sentimental value. Well done.
4fingermick
Member
They are a nice little cartridge, I have an old Colt Police Positive in 38S&W. It was used by Broken Hill Propritory Limited, a big aussie mining company for bullion escorts for years, then used by the Commonwealth Bank, probably as a tellers gun, before being sold off to a security company. The gun dealer I bought it from is a mate, he worked for the company, before buying it and said that the gun was one of two that was carried 24/7, as the guards handed over the shift, they handed over the guns and ammo. It has been around and has hardly any blue left, but still shoots ok (but low, real gut shooter, nasty!).
I'd put a pic on, but don't want to steal your thread.
Enjoy that old gun. Mick.
I'd put a pic on, but don't want to steal your thread.
Enjoy that old gun. Mick.
DMK
Member
Just to avoid confusion (I hope), T-bone's gun is chambered in .38 Special, not .38 S&W.
That sounds like a nice revolver T-bone. It should serve you for self defense just as well it served him.
Deanimator
Member
If you could post a picture, you could probably get a definitive answer more easily.
Jim Watson
Member
As I thought, the barrel has been shortened and the front sight remounted.
It looks like the hammer and trigger are nickel plated. If so, it is an aftermarket plating job, S&W does not plate the internal parts.
Dollar value is low due to modifications, but it was still Granddaddy's.
It is a S&W Military and Police model of 1905, fourth change. Majic is close on the date, about 1920, that version was made from 1915 til 1942.
It looks like the hammer and trigger are nickel plated. If so, it is an aftermarket plating job, S&W does not plate the internal parts.
Dollar value is low due to modifications, but it was still Granddaddy's.
It is a S&W Military and Police model of 1905, fourth change. Majic is close on the date, about 1920, that version was made from 1915 til 1942.
XavierBreath
Member
I agree wholeheartedly with Mr. Watson on the barrel shortening and re-nickeling. This gun's barrel has been cut down, and it has been re-nickeled, no doubt. I agree, too, that it is a S&W Military and Police model of 1905, fourth change, commonly known as a M&P, and the 1920 date seems right to me.
Collector desirability is lost due to the modifications. Sentimental value within your family remains high, however. The pearl grips, if real pearl, raise the value a bit, simply for the grips themselves. Judging from the color, I think they may be real pearl. Keep the revolver in your family, and write down it's history that you know. Keep the gun and written history together, with a photo of your Grandaddy if possible.
After a checking out by a gunsmith, it should still be safe to be shot if you desire. Use regular 130 grain .38 special ammunition.
Collector desirability is lost due to the modifications. Sentimental value within your family remains high, however. The pearl grips, if real pearl, raise the value a bit, simply for the grips themselves. Judging from the color, I think they may be real pearl. Keep the revolver in your family, and write down it's history that you know. Keep the gun and written history together, with a photo of your Grandaddy if possible.
After a checking out by a gunsmith, it should still be safe to be shot if you desire. Use regular 130 grain .38 special ammunition.
Jim Watson
Member
"The pearl grips, if real pearl, raise the value a bit, simply for the grips themselves."
That is definitely true. Many years ago, I was admiring a revolver, price around $100, available for $25 less if I did not want the pearls and would let the dealer swap grips. I didn't buy it, the trigger return was sluggish and I did not then know enough to tell whether it had just had the rebound spring clipped or if it had been messed up worse.
That is definitely true. Many years ago, I was admiring a revolver, price around $100, available for $25 less if I did not want the pearls and would let the dealer swap grips. I didn't buy it, the trigger return was sluggish and I did not then know enough to tell whether it had just had the rebound spring clipped or if it had been messed up worse.
wally
Member
IF you feel like shooting it, Midway just happens to have MagTech .38 S&W ammo on sale this month for $15/50. The ammo is not particularly popular or hard to find, just hard to find at decent prices.
I just gave one that's been in the family to my nephew for his 21st birthday. Is there an on-line way to look up serial number for day of manufacture?
--wally.
I just gave one that's been in the family to my nephew for his 21st birthday. Is there an on-line way to look up serial number for day of manufacture?
--wally.
Not that I know of. Part of the problem is that S&W would make frames and serial number them. Then they were made into revolvers later... sometimes years later.
However if you post the serial number (usually but not always located on the bottom of the butt) along with a detailed description of the gun and the markings on it; someone on The High Road will help you.
In addition, S&W's customer service department will help if you call them, but you must know the exact model you have.
To aid identification a photo will help, but without that a full description usually works.
Provide the following:
Markings on the barrel: Does it say .38 S&W Ctg., or .38 S&W Special Ctg. (or something else)? Are there patent dates on the top of the barrel? If so, what is the last one? How long is the barrel? Measure from the cylinder face to the muzzle.
The serial number should be on the butt, and also the rear face of the cylinder and the bottom of the barrel, above the ejector rod.
Does the revolver have a rounded or square butt? And what are the stocks made of (molded black hard rubber, walnut - checkered or plain - or something else)?
Was it blued, nickel plated or Parkerized - or you can't tell?
Note any unusual features, such as adjustable sights.
wally
Member
Thanks for the info. I'll pass it on to my nephew, I think he'd enjoy doing the "research". I had the gun for many years, not particularly interesting to me, but I kept it to pass along eventually.
It is parkerized, square butt, 4" barrel with beat up checkered wood grips, looks like a "typical" police surplus gun, carried a lot, shot little, but no extra agency markings or anything.
--wally.
It is parkerized, square butt, 4" barrel with beat up checkered wood grips, looks like a "typical" police surplus gun, carried a lot, shot little, but no extra agency markings or anything.
--wally.
I just wanted to Thank everyone that gave me information about my Granddaddy's gun. I really appreciated all the help I received and I am taking XavierBreath's advice about putting the history of the gun and a picture of my Granddaddy with the gun. Thanks again Everyone!!!
dbarale
Member
One more thing, if you decide to fire it, replace the grips with some inexpensive rubber ones. They can be found for 5 to 10$.
Pearl grips may (will) crack wen the gun is fired, nice gun.
Pearl grips may (will) crack wen the gun is fired, nice gun.
Guys - The gun is a .38 SPL and not a .38 S&W. It's stamped right on the barrel.
T-Bone - I know you're kind of new with guns. You can pick up .38 SPL ammo just about anywhere that sells ammunition. I would not purchase any ammunition marked "+P" though. That ammo is loaded hotter so I would avoid using it in an older gun. And standard ammunition works fine anyhow. Good luck if you decide to try it out.
T-Bone - I know you're kind of new with guns. You can pick up .38 SPL ammo just about anywhere that sells ammunition. I would not purchase any ammunition marked "+P" though. That ammo is loaded hotter so I would avoid using it in an older gun. And standard ammunition works fine anyhow. Good luck if you decide to try it out.
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