Need info: Sig Sauer P6 guns -personal experiences?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Lookn4Brass

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2008
Messages
138
Hey out there. I need lots of input from experienced Sig-Sauer shooters on this one, if ya can. Here's why: I've been real tempted by the surplus Sig P6 pistols coming into the country, and also the Sig-made Browning guns in .45acp, I think they're called BDA .45 or something like that. Does anybody know whether or not you can put a newer factory or aftermarket barrel in them without mods, or if they even need it to feed hollowpoints? I don't want to shoot ball ammo for practice - my preference is the truncated flat point lead stuff in 9mm or 200 gr. lswc in .45acp, except of course for CCW ( I use hollowpoints for that). I would love to have at least one of these pistols, but it seems unwise to throw $$ to upgrade them when their is still a few decent-priced P225 or P226 used guns around already. My guns get alot of range time - I don't buy one to let it collect dust or show it off. Good value and few headaches is what I'm after.

I may be changing all my 9mm collection to Sigs, because for me they're very ergomic + easy to shoot accurately, and easy to train new shooters with too - something I enjoy very much, just don't get to do often enough.

Anybody out there with alot of all-around experience with Sigs? (loads, recommended recoil spring weights, feeding issues with the P6 and similar guns) Most of my long-term experience with loading, shooting, and tuning is with other handguns - 1911's, Browning HP, Glock 17 - a long time ago, S&W .38/357 revolvers,etc.


Currently in my 9mm pile: a compact Sig P239 (newest to me -probably my first choice for carry), TZ-75(willed to me, still in transfer from estate), Beretta 92FS(Italian, old, ugly, still purrin after alot of miles...)

Thanks to all who can share some knowledge.
 
You'll find that those with Sig experience have fired thousands of rounds with zero failures. Most of the thousand rounds probably went into the center of the center of the target with little effort.

I got a trio of P6s recently, from Centerfire Systems, and two of them were new in the box and unissued.

Picture2.gif

The one that was, apparently, "used", is a 1994 gun. It had a faint "smiley" mark on the barrel, but appeared unused otherwise. I took it to the range the first week I had it and fired 200 rounds of FMJ and 150 various hollowpoints. It was extremely accurate with little recoil.

Picture2018.gif

They carry really well in a Blade Tech IWB:

Picture2024-1.gif

There are two barrel styles. Some people report feeding issues with hollowpoints in the "old" style barrels. I'm willing to bet that bad springs are more to blame, but who knows. If you get one of the "old" barrels, just try your favorite hollowpoint to see if it will feed, or use expanding full metal jacket rounds from Federal or Cor-Bon. The "old style" was changed in 1980, but any gun after that has a chance of having either the "old" or "new" barrel. My 1994, with the "new" barrel, feeds any hollowpoint just fine. One of the guys at Sigforum reprofiles and polishes the old style barrels very inexpensively.

I wouldn't screw around with different spring strengths. You can use any Sig P225 spring if the springs in your P6 are too stout. Even if the main (hammer) spring feels too strong, its still smooth and easy to learn.

You can buy new in the box magazines from Sig for $45 when they get their next shipment in. You can buy grips from Hogue (not out yet, but will be) or nice wood grips from Marchalls (I might have spelled that wrong). Holsters are available from Blade-Tech and most leather makers.

Buy one while you can!
 
Thanks for the quick reply. Very helpful. I'll check out the SigForum about the barrel work too. Anybody else want to put in some info? Much appreciated. Need to know about the Sig/Browning .45 also. Thanks!
 
I just got my P6 from AIM about 2-3 weeks ago. Just put over 100 flawless WWB rounds through it. More accurate than I am, at least for now, till I get better. Magazines are horrendously expensive, make sure you get at least 2 with your pistol. Heavy, heavy DA trigger pull, though that's easily remedied with a spring replacement.
 
I've had my P6 about two months now and it has been perfect with 50 rounds of Win USA 147 JHP and 500 rounds of various FMJ, mostly Blazer.

A few times one magazine has failed to lock back the slide, but it has a noticably softer spring than the other.

Mine is marked 1978 NW.
 
the Browning BDA, as you noted, was a badge engineered Sig 220. the main difference between it and a newer 220 you might consider is that the BDA comes with a butt mounted mag release, sharp spur hammer and a front sight machined as part of the slide

more modern 220s also have a different main spring assembly and machined slide
 
My wife bought me one yesterday for my birthday...isn't she great? Obviously, I haven't gotten to shoot it yet, but it feels GREAT in my hands. The finish is still in very good condition, can't wait to shoot it. To the OP, why not pick one up? For around $300 they're a steal, and if you don't like it you could always sell it for what you paid. :)
 
Not to threadjack here, but I don't want to start a whole new thread for this.

I did a little research and discovered that the barrel on my P6 is the old kind that often has problems feeding hollowpoints. Just the other day I put over 100 rounds of WWB FMJ through it flawlessly. It may well feed hollowpoints just fine. But, in case it doesn't, what are my options? I know I can use the EFMJ. But, would getting the feed ramp polished fix the issue?
 
My first P220 .45 was not so old as to be a Browning BDA with heel catch, but for what it is worth, it would NOT run on semiwadcutters. I have not asked the second one to try, it gets roundnose and ogival hollowpoints.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top