Need some serious Revolver Jamming help.

Status
Not open for further replies.
I had a rossi that would jam up 'for no apparant reason' now and then,after months of frustration I lubed the friction points of the transfer bar.I had the gun open one day,pulling the trigger slowly and watching the actions going on inside,and figured out that the t-bar was not sliding smoothely.
fixed mine,might help yours too.
If it's a new gun it might need more lube inside than the factory put in there,assuming they did.
 
Loose ejector rod is the most likely candidate if opening the cylinder is difficult. If not, look at trash near the back of the cylinder, especially under the star.

Now that I only own new autos (with a few exceptions) I have no jams. Glock, Springfield and Kahr are as reliable as gravity. Wish I could say the same thing about the 1911's and Browning High Powers that I have owned.

That said, no gun is totally reliable. The Smith 19 that I gave my daughter for her 15th birthday took me a while to hash out (before I gave it to her). Probably the result of a bad gunsmith before I got it. Had a Taurus that would break when it was in the drawer. (old one...bad old days gun that was horrendous)

That said...Old Fuff is right as usual. While autos are catching up, they still have more problems than wheelies.

damn it Fuff...be wrong about something sometime
 
When I first started reloading I used a lot of Bluedot with very mild .38's and the burned powder was always getting under the ejectors of my S&W's causing them to bind up. It only takes one small burned skeleton of Bluedot to cause a revolver to fail. I did notice that a little hotter load or a +P load didn't give as much trouble. That is why I started using Unique, no more problems after that.

J.B.
 
Revolvers are more reliable than autoloaders.
It's a fact.


A revolver simply cannot have a failure-to-feed, or a failure-to-eject, or a limp-wristing issue.
Click to expand...

No, but they can be bound up by the ejector rod working loose, unburned powder or grit under the extractor star, have the trigger fail to reset, or be so out of time that the cylinder will not index properly so that the cylinder will not rotate AT ALL unless it is rotated backwards, by hand, into the previous notch.

I teach classes for a living and I've seen all those malfunctions with revolvers. My last class, out of four students with revolvers, two of them had malfunctions. One had her trigger lock up where the cylinder would not advance the next round. We had to rotate the cylinder backwards by hand. That happened several times. The other student had her empty cases get so stuck in the chambers that we had to push them out with a pencil.

I'm a revolver fan, and I carry one myself, but after running classes for a few years and seeing numerous revolver malfunctions, I say that they are no more mechanically perfect then an autoloader. They just have *different* malfunctions, and usually ones that are harder to fix on the spot.

If you want a revolver to run right buy a quality gun, like a S&W, keep it clean and properly lubed, and watch it for excessive parts wear after you've shot it extensively.
 
First it is a Taurus. Second, instead of talking on the internet, it would be better to have it checked by a gunsmith. But buying cheap, may imply that one doesn't use a gunsmith either.....OMO.
 
Well, we made it to post 33 before the Taurus bashing. I'm impressed. The only revolvers that have given me any kind of trouble at all were a Smith and Wesson and a Interarms Rossi. My 3 Tauri have never bobbled. But, I knew there'd be a genius in the crowd before this thread was over. :rolleyes:
 
One thing you might want to check is to see if your ejector-rod is unscrewing
Click to expand...

My $$ is on this. My old Taurus had the same problem. Trigger was really starting to bind. Turned out to be a loose ejector rod.
 
So it's been a week since the original problem was posted, and we're now on page two of responses, and the bashing has commenced as previously noted. Can the OP please check back in with us to let us know what's going on?

Has the problem been resolved? Which of these hypotheses (if any) were correct?

I'm truly interested in learning the outcome of this before the thread gets locked for brand-bashing and bickering.
 
One thing I did not see posted was the possibility of high primers.

Strange how everytime someone asks for help with a simple question, the bashers see it as a excuse to puff up their chests and try and beat their opinions into the masses. Really takes the fun outta opening new threads around here lately.
 
I guess I just was assuming he wasn't a reloader.
Click to expand...

Since he didn't say what he was using for ammo in his original post, I considered the possibility he may be shooting reloads, either his or(gasp) from someone else.
 
High primers in revolvers can be due to two different problems -- the first, of course, is failure to seat the primer properly during reloading. The second is low pressure. In revolvers, with their necessary generous headspace, the primers are always forced out of the primer pocket at primer ignition. They are reseated when the powder ignites and the case moves back slightly. With insufficient pressure, that reseating will not happen.
 
The funny part is, the OP made only the first post with no follow up posts at all. He received many responses as to possible problems, most of which could be determined on his kitchen table if they were the cause.

In fact, I didn't post, as I saw my suggestions already covered.

Today, I saw that the thread had spilled over onto Page 2......"let's go see what the problem was," I thought.

Now it's turned into a "revolvers vs. autos" thread.........and we still don't know what the original problem was !
 
I have shot mostly Smith and Ruger revolvers for 35 years. In all that time, I have seen one malfunction. A particle of lead lodged between the cylinder and the frame, and the cylinder would not rotate.
 
Taurus revolver jamming

Well, I'm not here to bash Taurus on any other manufacture for that matter. Howver, I own a Taurus model 445 and a model 605. Both are small 5 shot revolvers. The 445 is currently at the factory for the second time for the problem stated by the originator of this thread, i.e. cylinder binding up. When this happens, the cylinder is difficult to open and close until the cylinder face is cleaned of residue. It has nothing to do with the ammo used (albeit there is little to chose from in .44 Spl factory loadings) and it happens with as few as 15 to 20 rounds fired. When it jams, there is no way to get even the smallest feeler guage in the Cylinder/barrel gap. Even after it's cleaned, the gap only measures less than .002". The gap on my 605 is also very tight, less than .001", but has not caused a problem as of yet. A reliable defense gun should have somewhere in the neighborhood of .003-.005" gap. My S&W Model 28 measures .006", has never failed, and is very accurate. Granted, it doesn't shoot as fast as some others with tighter gaps, but reliability is better than the utmost FPS velocity.

We will see what the factory does, or says after I get it back. I specifically requested in my work order to open the gap up some.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Z
  • Locked
Taurus Reliabilty
2
Replies
30
Views
2K
unspellable
U
S
  • Locked
Revolver beginner: For autoloaders problem #1 is jamming, What about revolvers??
2
Replies
36
Views
1K
Vern Humphrey
V
3
  • Locked
S&W Model 10-7 jamming
Replies
2
Views
641
Hondo 60
Hondo 60
G
  • Locked
Ruger Service-Six issue
Replies
24
Views
2K
W.E.G.
W.E.G.
B
  • Locked
Need Help with ID: Older Taurus .38 special
Replies
9
Views
2K
billyp
B
Back
Top