Neighbor asked me to mount a scope.

[BigBL87]

Busted out the leveling kit.

Vanguard/Fullfield combo was off enough I wanted to fix it, and I like the peace of mind I have now. Checked my other rifles and while they weren't absolutely perfect, they weren't off quite enough that it bothered me. Didn't check my 22 though, way too happy with how it shoots to get inside my own head about it!

 

[Picher]

Out of curiosity, what were the specifics of the rifle?

A Savage bolt action, blued with plastic stock (110?). Didn't check the number.

Funny thing: My first centerfire rifle was a 110 and I hated the stock fit, so did a Bishop stock, carving it to look/feel like a Weatherby and it was fanstastic! It was around 1959 and we didn't have gunsmith epoxy back then, so used marine boat repair epoxy.

 

[Picher]

Sometimes I get lucky when installing a new scope and don't have to make too many adjustments at the range and other times I need a big piece of cardboard and lots of adjustments to get a new scope zeroed. Same goes with sighting in iron sights on an AR rifle. I did the mechanical zero on my A2 clone with a Windham barrel and DPMS A2 receiver, all I had to do was move the rear sight 2 clicks and it was zeroed.

As far as Savage rifles, they are normally very accurate and don't get the credit they deserve. They are not always the nicest finished or best looking rifles (especially the synthetic stocks) but they do shoot good.

And that was great that you helped your neighbor and made sure that her rifle was sighted in for what she wanted.

This morning, I thought about several comments regarding helping folks with their guns around here and realized that I worked on guns for at least 6 families in the neighborhood, some with multiple guns. I never was a full-time gun repair guy, but did work for a busy sporting goods store owned by a classmate for a few years (charged for that work) and had an FFL. I also worked on police weapons for my City when serving as a volunteer firearms instructor. It was just a hobby and a great learning experience.

 

[Picher]

Good on you for helping her!

Just out of curiosity, what caliber did she get?

JP: .223 Rem.

 

[Picher]

Good on you for helping her!

Just out of curiosity, what caliber did she get?

JP: .223 Rem

 

[Picher]

Good job! Helping a neighbor.

I just went through the process with the Leupold scope on my old Model 80. It has the 3/8" wide grooved receiver. I like a low as possible scope, probably because I like a solid cheek weld on the stock. While fiddling with it I also changed out the mounts on the 10/22 that my wife shoots, the ones on the rifle were too low and I raised the scope about 1/8" to clear the rail. Maybe next range trip I won't be so shaky.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

I've used grooved receiver mounts, but prefer to install drill and tap mounts because it's all too easy to knock a grooved receiver mount off-zero. You can install D&T bases on a rifle that's got a grooved receiver. It's a good way to learn how to center-punch and drill/tap receivers. I've even done it with a hand-held 1/4" drill...(but not for many years). Necessity is the mother of invention.

 

[Picher]

Yeah, for some reason i cant get good alignment anymore. Its still close enough, but when checked against a grid, or level, im usually a few degrees off. I used to be able to get it centered almost as well as setting up the grid (which is a pain in the butt since i work out of my garage).

If you use the Weaver rings with the screws only one side of the tube, there will be a bit of rotation of the scope as screws are tightened. I try to get the rings with 4 screws and adjust on both sides, after turning the tube to be aligned with the bore. If only screws on one side of the tube, you have to anticipate how much the tube will turn as ring screws are tightened and back off and re-do if you guessed wrong. It often takes me a couple of tries to get it right when screws are only on one side of the rings.

 

[LoonWulf]

If you use the Weaver rings with the screws only one side of the tube, there will be a bit of rotation of the scope as screws are tightened. I try to get the rings with 4 screws and adjust on both sides, after turning the tube to be aligned with the bore. If only screws on one side of the tube, you have to anticipate how much the tube will turn as ring screws are tightened and back off and re-do if you guessed wrong. It often takes me a couple of tries to get it right when screws are only on one side of the rings.

Those old weavers worked well enough, but Ive gone completely to rings with screws on both sides, or preferably vertical split rings.
I usually got frustrated before i guessed the right amount of rotation on those lol.

 

[rbernie]

I usually got frustrated before i guessed the right amount of rotation on those lol.

No kidding!

 

[Picher]

Those old weavers worked well enough, but Ive gone completely to rings with screws on both sides, or preferably vertical split rings.
I usually got frustrated before i guessed the right amount of rotation on those lol.

I don't mean that it's easy, but it depends on whether you're doing it on a wide-stocked benchrest quality rifle to be used on a machine rest or a hunting rifle that will usually be fired offhand or on a quick, field rest. Rifles that are mostly fired offhand may also fit the shooter a bit better just off-tilt, but I wouldn't suggest it. It would be up to the owner whether he/she likes it off plumb or not. I wouldn't do it without their input and probably would suggest it perfectly vertical and if, after trying it that way and not liking it, would change it to suit a knowledgeable owner.

Without firing the rifle, I now make sure that the stock screws are as tight as they should be before shooting the rifle. I've been "burned" by new rifles that don't have tight stock screws once too many times.
JP

 

[cdb1]

I have a number of scope mounting tools, a few are pictured below. When I was mounting 10-25 optics a week, all the tools were used, some obviously a lot more than others. Most of the time there were no issues but occasionally the job was a real booger. I absolutely do not like to mount using the original Weaver rings with a flange on one side and two screws on the other.

 

[Orcon]

Good on you for lending a hand.. I've had pretty good success with a level on the action and aligning the scope reticle to a plumbbob.

 

[Sniper66]

I've had my gunsmith mount my scopes and rings for years. But, he died a few years back so I decided it was time to learn myself. Since then I have installed rings and mounts on 5 or 6 rifles. I did it with considerable trepidation because I'm not a good shade tree gunsmith at all. But, I got lucky and managed to get it all done with good results. Then my sis-n-law asked me to help find a good rifle, a good scope, and mount it for her. Talk about sweating bullets!! Doing it for myself is one thing, but doing it for others, at least for me, was infinitely more stressful. Thankfully, it had a good outcome. I would love to have a neighbor like Picher. Oh wait a minute......we do. He's right here! I had a question awhile back about a Tikka 17HMR and he was glad to answer my question. Thanks neighbor!!

 

[JBradley500]

I use a method I like, but I don't hear other people doing it.

I have a digital level with magnetic base and i also have a flat ground piece of magnetic stainless. I will match the angle of the receiver (or best flat spot) to the flat spot on the bottom the scope. I put the angle finder on the flat stock to reach in and measure and perfectly match the angles. The scopes erector (and crosshairs) and receiver should be extremely close to perfect alignment.

 

[Picher]

I use a method I like, but I don't hear other people doing it.

I have a digital level with magnetic base and i also have a flat ground piece of magnetic stainless. I will match the angle of the receiver (or best flat spot) to the flat spot on the bottom the scope. I put the angle finder on the flat stock to reach in and measure and perfectly match the angles. The scopes erector (and crosshairs) and receiver should be extremely close to perfect alignment.

As long as you get the scope aligned to the bore well enough to satisfy you, that's all that matters.

 

[Garandimal]

As long as you get the scope aligned to the bore well enough to satisfy you, that's all that matters.

Man, I'm Fred Flintstone.

- Line the rings w/ vinyl electrical tape.
- Grease the cap screws.
- Set the vertical reticle to pick up the muzzle at the bottom.
- Mount the rifle and check the vertical reticle against an inside wall corner.
- Mount the rifle and check the vertical reticle through the center of the bore in a wall mirror.
- Torque screws.
- Repeat... until checks hold at torque.




GR

 

[David Hoback]

I’ve been a Savage enthusiast all my firearms life. Was my first purchased high-power Rifle at age 18, and I’ve been through several. As another stated, they seldom receive praise and often get rebuke. But they are extremely capable and will produce outstanding accuracy at an incredible price point, when in the right hands.

This is my current Bench Rifle. It started life as a used Model10 in 243Win. I stripped it down to bare action, did a “home-shop” blueprint and full custom build. This is about as extreme a build one can go with a Savage.

Also to the point of them not looking good....yeah, I fixed that as well. Because I think THIS is absolutely a GORGEOUS rifle. But opinions do vary.

 

[Picher]

If you hold the rifle butt away from your face with the left hand and the muzzle on the window frame, you should be able to see both the vertical crosshair and bore at the same time and turn the scope with your right hand.

P.S. The scope should be set at its lowest power, so the reticle can be seen better from behind the buttplate.

 

[Picher]

Man, I'm Fred Flintstone.

- Line the rings w/ vinyl electrical tape.
- Grease the cap screws.
- Set the vertical reticle to pick up the muzzle at the bottom.
- Mount the rifle and check the vertical reticle against an inside wall corner.
- Mount the rifle and check the vertical reticle through the center of the bore in a wall mirror.
- Torque screws.
- Repeat... until checks hold at torque.




GR

I've never lined rings with electrical tape, but use powdered rosin inside, to prevent movement with moderate to heavy-recoiling rifles.

 

[Garandimal]

I've never lined rings with electrical tape, but use powdered rosin inside, to prevent movement with moderate to heavy-recoiling rifles.

The vinyl tape will actually flow, and essentially give you painted on mating surfaces.

Except that when you loosen the cap screws, the bond will break and the scope will rotate a/o translate.

Did that to the Talley scope bases as well, so the screws just hold the surfaces together, w/o any shear on them.

​

GR

 

[Picher]

The vinyl tape will actually flow, and essentially give you painted on mating surfaces.

Except that when you loosen the cap screws, the bond will break and the scope will rotate a/o translate.

Did that to the Talley scope bases as well, so the screws just hold the surfaces together, w/o any shear on them.

View attachment 924765​

GR

Just as long as it works for you, but I'd be nervous about the glue on the tape melting if left out in the sun and having it work as a lubricant instead of a gripping agent. Powdered rosin won't melt at the highest temperatures that are safe for a scope.

 

[Steve S.]

I use a similar method to Picher; I square the rifle as best as I can in a cradle, loosen the ring screws as noted, place a very small bubble level on the vertical turret and true the bubble to the squared rifle. I also check the vertical post as being centered with the bore/ scope base by stepping to the rear of the rifle and viewing the crosshairs from a small distance - that perspective helps to square but I have noticed that parallax will play with my eyes also.
I can say that it is not a perfect science for me as my eyes will start drifting and blurring the more I concentrate on the exactness of the task. However, it will get it very close for the average shooter. In turn, some like a cant to their scope based upon their individual shooting hold and style; I am not convinced that the alignment has to be perfect for all but for the most precision, long-range shooter. As long as it appears to be square to me, the rest depends on my shooting skill - on a bad day, I would like to blame the scope but we all know that not to be true.