New brass...where to start

[Ruger GP100 fan]

Santa brought me a bag of new Winchester brass for my 22-250. Is it best to always FL re-size,or can I just neck size them and trim to length? What is the best way to go from start to loaded? I have a RCBS 2-die set,a Lee hand trimmer,a primer pocket tool that cuts all pockets to the same depth. I have been using One Shot for just neck sizing by backing my FL die about 3/4 turn,but to FL size should I use some other lube? My Rockchucker came with a lube pad and lube,but a friend has recommended wax instead. Since brass isn't exactly the cheapest component I want to get it right from the start. A was given a bag of new brass from the former rifle owner and damaged quite a number of them trying to learn. Thank you.

 

[James2]

I always begin with full length resizing, and do the other steps as usual. I don't tumble nor trim new brass. Yes, use some lube.

Once your brass has been fired in your rifle, you can probably get by with neck sizing.

One day I ran out of lube, and was not finished, so I asked myself what I had around the house that may be a good lube. Of course, high temp bearing grease. I tried it and have been using it ever since. Just a little on the fingers and smear it lightly on the brass. Wipe it off with a cotton rag when done.

I am sure you will get some more recommendations on a good lube. Try some stuff and see what works for you.

 

[MCMXI]

I don't do anything to new brass accept make sure that the necks are round by pressing an 1/8" punch into the case mouth. The punch has a nice round taper and makes the case mouths uniform. You can buy a die to do this if you're so inclined. Maybe this is laziness or sloppy on my part, but of the 2,000 or so new cases I've reloaded over the last couple of years, I've had zero problems, and in fact, have shot some really good groups using new brass.

 

[steve4102]

I FL size new brass, although it really only straightens out the necks. They come pretty beat up and out of round these days.
Don't forget to Chamfer and De-burr.

 

[243winxb]

Loading New Factory Brass

If the factory brass will chamber & does not need trimming, all you need to do is make the case mouth round by bumping with the expander button when its turned all the way down in your die. No sizing of the neck. Load a Boatail bullet and fire form. No need to cut pockets to the same depth,as they come from the factory should be fine. RCBS lube & pad work well for me.

just neck sizing by backing my FL die about 3/4 turn,

This may make ammo that will not chamber, if you want to neck size only, buy a neck die. When you do full length resize, RCBS lube and pad work, Don't forget to lube the inside of the case neck with a nylon brush when FL or Neck sizing with an expander button. Load 3 rounds to see if the bullet has enough neck tension. You should be able to feel the bullet seat. And with bullet seated, the neck diameter should get larger by .002" or more after seating. Or just follow normal reloading methods, flrs,trim,chamfer and de-burr, load.

 

[Walkalong]

I always prep it. Some folks don't. I would not take any results seriously until the brass has been fired in your gun and re-prepped once. Probably doesn't matter though.

 

[rfwobbly]

The short answer is: FL resize, check/trim for length and then load. However, if the brass already fits the chamber...

In the long run I guess your answer depends on your reloading process. If you have a multi-stage reloading press and it's less trouble to simply run the brass under the already configured tool head, versus a single-stage press where chunks of the reloading process can be skipped, then....

The RCBS lube pad is extremely useful. You can augment or alter the lube already in the pad by simply adding your lube of choice. I converted mine to Imperial years ago.

 

[Grumulkin]

I always prep it as well. Here is what I do:

1. Seat a primer.
2. Add powder.
3. Seat a bullet.
4. Go shooting.

 

[Arkansas Paul]

^ I bought some new Winchester brass you wouldn't have done that to.
Your step #3 would have went - insert bullet with fingers, then try to remove bullet from deep inside case.
Seriously the only new brass I've ever bought was for .45 Colt and you could just drop a bullet in them. Had to size them all. Maybe the bottleneck rifle rounds would be different, but I'd still FL size to be sure. Don't take but a few minutes.

 

[Sin City Shootist]

I chamfer the neck and uniform the primer pocket, then load as usual.

 

[243winxb]

For Bench Rest Shooting

Winchester Brass-FLRS -Trim- Uniform the flash hole-Use your primer pocket tool that cuts all pockets to the same depth(if you must,i never used one)-Check the weight, sort by 1/10th grain-Chamfer and debur. Try to make lots by how many you like to load at a time 20 or 50 rounds. The very heavy & light ones, use for set up. I am not a Bench Rest Shooter like Walkalong. I just shoot from a bench.

 

[788Ham]

What will it hurt to FLS the new brass? Its just the first step in prepping the brass, I've been told to do this with EVERY new bag of brass, don't make it out to be such a tedious task! Some of the new brass might not be exactly "true" in dimension, run it thru the die and be done with it.

 

[rondog]

The short answer is: FL resize, check/trim for length and then load.

This^. If you only have one rifle in that caliber, and it's a bolt action, you can just neck-size them in subsequent reloadings, after they've been fired in your rifle one time. Semi-autos should have the cases FLS every time.

 

[hawk45]

It depends... each time.

1. First I check things to see what needs to be done. I take a bullet and try to push it into the factory neck.. if won't go.. then no need to neck size.
2. I then try to chamber one of the empty factory rounds in the rifle I'm going to use it in. If it chambers.. all good.. no need to full lenght size.
3. If case mouths are beat up I'll run them only part way through my collet die to get them round (I don't close the collet on them in this step)
4. Chamfer the inside/outside of the case mouth.
5. Ream flash holes
6. Prime
7. Fill
8. Seat
9. Shoot

Round 2 I will do the following:
1. Brass now formed to chamber, so will verify still fit empty.
2. Deprime
3. Clean
4. Neck size only to set tension (if won't close in step 1 them full length size)
5. Steps 6 - 9
6. Repeat after each round of shooting.

 

[04JRB]

I give new brass the full works, FL size, tumble off lube, trim, chamfer/deburr, prime, charge and seat. I do this with all rifle loads, that way it is easy to keep track of which brass has which steps done. It only takes a few minutes extra per hundred to do.

But, Im a little particular about handloading. I do it more for accuracy than any other reason.

 

[MCMXI]

I always prep it as well. Here is what I do:

1. Seat a primer.
2. Add powder.
3. Seat a bullet.
4. Go shooting.

Now that's funny.


When Ken Brucklacher set the 1,000 yard IBS heavy gun world record last year, he didn't do any prep on the new cases. That's 10 shots into 3.137" at 1,000 yards with new brass!! (see details below)

Image courtesy of http://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2009/05/ken-brucklacher-sets-1000-yard-score-record-100-8x/

 

[ants]

I don't think I've ever had new brass that was too long and needed trimming.
But I measure them all anyway.

I can't think of any new brass that didn't fit in a chamber.
But I chamber check all new brass anyway.




Ah, here are the problems (and they occur often enough to be concerned):
- I get new brass that is too large inside diameter at the neck and won't hold bullets properly.
- I get new brass that isn't round at the neck any more (probably been abused or crushed during shipping and handling -- it's only in a plastic bag for protection).

 

[ants]

A note on the post by 1858, two posts above:

Norma brass is absolutely excellent. That's why the record-holder used it.

I wouldn't think Winchester or any of the other common brass to be anywhere near as good as Norma.
After an excellent experience with Norma brass, I would never overgeneralize and extend that experience to the other brass.

 

[MCMXI]

I wouldn't think Winchester or any of the other common brass to be anywhere near as good as Norma. After an excellent experience with Norma brass, I would never overgeneralize and extend that experience to the other brass.

I load Norma, Nosler, Lapua, Winchester, Remington, Starline, and on and on for numerous cartridges, and other than dented necks, I don't have any problems with new brass. Everyone is free to do as they please but with more than 2,000 new cases loaded over the last 2 years from many different manufactures, and with very good results, I'll stick with my method for now.

As for Winchester, I use that brass for my POF P308 and am still working my way through 500 new cases. No problems to report and sub moa groups ... but as they say ... YMMV.

 

[Hondo 60]

1. I full-length resize new brass, then check length.
2. trim if needed
3. charge
4. seat
5. crimp
6. shoot.

I don't know about you, but I find step 6 to be the most fun.
Is that odd?