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I got this through a deal. A Uberti 1847. These were on my radar for a long time but i've held that off because of how heavy they are. Every other handgun feels light after you pick this one up. It's definitely a horse pistol.
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Also got a Triple K holster. Don't have a flask yet though.
Now before I do some project work on it which includes greying it, I'd be up for trading for a pair of 1860s/1861s.
 
Well I did my work on it, greyed it up, refinished the grips.
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Now it looks more authentic now and less of a dime-a-dozen Italian clone. I actually am digging it. Still don't have a flask (I like to keep a devoted flask for each of my black powder guns.) There's the big brass ones that they made specifically for the 1847 but i could never figure out how to use those.
 
Now before I do some project work on it which includes greying it, I'd be up for trading for a pair of 1860s/1861s.

Love it.

I would like to have one and white out the cylinder like the originals.
Not sure why they were shipped with unfinished cylinders, but I like making them look similar to what they would have way back when.
 
Not sure why they were shipped with unfinished cylinders
Probably because the engraved cylinder was harder to blue?

And yea I like making them look more authentic too. Its not that I want it to 'be an original' but rather not look 'like a repro' because the repros are so common. So I like to add unique changes to it, that would've been period correct.
 
Probably because the engraved cylinder was harder to blue?

And yea I like making them look more authentic too. Its not that I want it to 'be an original' but rather not look 'like a repro' because the repros are so common. So I like to add unique changes to it, that would've been period correct.

Be sure and post pics when you get it done.
Would love to see it.
 
Arbor is the big honking pin that the cylinder runs on, if it doesn't bottom in the hole in the barrel assembly the frame can and will stretch, especially with full house loads, ask me how I know. Been there, done that. Also saw a fellow stretch his Uberti at a club shoot. Mike from Goons explains it better than I do. Anyway, seems Uberti thinks that making the end diameter of the arbor a real tight fit is the answer to a short arbor, it's not.
 
Arbor is the big honking pin that the cylinder runs on, if it doesn't bottom in the hole in the barrel assembly the frame can and will stretch, especially with full house loads, ask me how I know. Been there, done that. Also saw a fellow stretch his Uberti at a club shoot. Mike from Goons explains it better than I do. Anyway, seems Uberti thinks that making the end diameter of the arbor a real tight fit is the answer to a short arbor, it's not.
Well I'm mainly interested in running 50 grain loads.
 
Well I'm mainly interested in running 50 grain loads.

There are many threads and posts about how to shim the arbor hole with washers/discs made from soda cans.
Here's an example. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...-black-powder-gun.870729/page-2#post-11554391
Basically, if pushing in the wedge closes up the barrel -cylinder gap, then that's an indication that the arbor is short.
Thin shims can be placed in the arbor hole to set the gap where you want it to be each time the wedge is driven in.
Between the thickness of a Dollar bill and a Dollar bill folded in half can be used to approximate an acceptable barrel - cylinder gap.
That would represent a clearance of between .004 to .008.
 
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any suggestions for a good bullet mold? I prefer the old fashion brass ones but those can wear out.

Geez being a black powder enthusiast and knowing what we know, one does not simply spend a few hundred dollars on a black powder pistol without spending a few hundred dollars more. But accessories are the requisite for this category
 
any suggestions for a good bullet mold? I prefer the old fashion brass ones but those can wear out.

Geez being a black powder enthusiast and knowing what we know, one does not simply spend a few hundred dollars on a black powder pistol without spending a few hundred dollars more. But accessories are the requisite for this category

Lee makes 2 different REAL molds with 200 grain bullets, one is designed for the Ruger Old Army and drops bullets with a top driving band close to .457.
Read the reviews and you'll find that it works in the Uberti Walker.
Middle driving band is .454, and the bottom driving band is .450.
But it does require pure lead.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010196649

The other Lee REAL double mold also has a round ball.
The bullet may or may not drop at the same size according to THR threads, and could be loose for the chamber. --->>> https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1010211326

1. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/conicals-for-uberti-walker.756572/
2, https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/what-conical-mold-for-walker.270044/
3, https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/conical-bullets-in-dragoon.543959/
4. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/uberti-walker-load.827383/
5. https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/cold-dragoon-and-lee-conical-200gr.86505/
 
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