Would it be fair to assume that pretty much all 250 grain lead loads will print about the same POI? And that 200-225 grain loads may hit closer to POA?
Kind of, but it is not quite that simple. In addition to velocity, It's all about the amount of recoil generated. A heavy recoiling round will cause the muzzle to flip up more before the bullet leaves the barrel than a round which does not recoil so much. Years ago I conducted some experiments with 38 Special in revolvers. I loaded groups of ammo with the same bullet, but different amounts of powder. So even though the bullets weighed the same, the heavier charges caused the muzzle to flip up more, and those rounds had a higher point of impact than the lighter charges. You can work it the other way too. The same powder charge with a lighter and a heavier bullet. (Making sure of course that you do not exceed the maximum pressure with the heavier bullets.) In this case, even though the powder charge is the same, the heavier bullet will cause the muzzle to flip more before exiting the barrel, so that bullet will have a higher point of impact than the lighter bullet. But the fallacy in your example is that some 200 or 225 grain loads may have enough powder behind them to generate more recoil than some other 250 grain load. In that case, the 200 or 225 grain load may impact higher than the 250 grain load. At typical handgun distances, velocity, and therefore the amount the bullet drops, will have an insignificant affect on point of impact. Unlike a rifle bullet, which may be traveling 100 yards or more, the pistol bullet often is not in the air long enough for bullet drop to make much of a significant difference. However, if you chose to load a 200 or 225 grain bullet, with the same powder charge you use with a 250 grain bullet (staying within safe pressure limits), yes, the lighter bullet will probably impact lower than the heavier bullet because the heavier bullet will cause a greater muzzle flip.
Oh, is there an easy way to remove brass scorching (200 grain Ultramax scorches pretty badly, as do other loads to a lesser degree)? I tumbled in fresh corncob for 12 hours and it doesn't touch it. I have tried mineral spirits, acetone, bronze wool, Hoppe's. None are adequately effective. I would prefer a "dip and wipe off" effective method, or something less labor-intensive than bronze or steel wool. This scorching is stubborn!
You obviously have never heard my refrain that shiny ammo does not shoot any better than ammo with stained brass. The only real advantage to shiny ammo is the empties are easier to find in the grass than stained brass. But we are talking about a revolver, and you will probably not be dumping much brass on the grass, will you? If you insist on shiny brass, try walnut shell media. It is more abrasive than corncob. Don't buy the expensive stuff, go to the Big Box pet store and buy some Lizzard Litter. It is the same stuff as the expensive walnut media, but it is cheaper. I usually let my brass tumble for a couple of hours and it gets shiny enough for me. Oh, the other advantage of shiny brass is that tumbling it gets rid of any dirt or grit it may have picked up if it fell on the ground. Grit will scratch your dies, which will then in turn scratch your brass. If you want really shiny brass, a lot of guys will add a dab of auto polish to the media. Just a dab will do you. I don't do that, because I don't care if my brass is super shiny, but guys who do will add a dab of polish to the media.
Regarding my advice to try scrubbing the lead off your brass with bronze wool, use it with a bit of very fine oil. This will help wash away the lead particles a little bit better.
Now, of course I realize you are probably head over heels in love with your new Colt, and love how pretty it is. And that is great. But eventually, if you shoot it much, it will begin to show its age. If you got lead deposits on the cylinder from a couple of boxes of ammo, you will probably get them all over again next time you take it shooting. Then you will be trying to remove the lead again. Eventually you may just opt to leave them there. Same with the circular lead deposits at the front of the chambers. I gave up a long time ago trying to remove them from my revolvers. They just return, and they are a pain in the butt to remove. Eventually, even if you use the load one, skip one, load four more regimen, you will get rub marks on the lead in to the cylinder locking slots. That is normal, there is nothing you can do about it. How far the rub marks extend will depend on the timing of the gun. The bolt should rise up at about the center of the lead in, but it may pop up earlier, or it may pop up later. Lastly, regarding those beautiful case colors. Be aware that even though the hardening of the surface of the steel is permanent, the colors are relatively fragile. They will tend to fade over time. I dunno if Colt is putting a protective coating of lacquer over the case colors or not, some manufacturers do. But regardless, the colors will fade over time. And harsh chemicals can cause them to fade, and even bright sunlight will cause the colors to fade.
So, enjoy your new Colt, don't make it a safe queen, and as it gradually takes on a worn look, think of it as honest wear that is a testament to how much you enjoy shooting it.
