New Enfield No. 4 Mk. I!!!
- Thread starter Nolo
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armoredman
Member
NOLO, you have a fine rifle. 
Nolo
Member
All these askings for a range report...
I will get to it as soon as I can, trust me. Patience is a virtue, especially when you don't get to shoot very often.
I will get to it as soon as I can, trust me. Patience is a virtue, especially when you don't get to shoot very often.
I have one that is crowding my safe...
All,
I can understand your 303 madness. I've had madness over a few other 'beautiful ladies'.
I ran across a '303 Jungle' version (noted by the flared barrel) last week hanging on the wall at a local shop. Was hard to pass up, but again, not my bag.
My 303, seen here is on the catwalk sporting a 'sporterized' stock (the only mod I can tell), and from what I can see, the numbers match, but I haven't given it much looking or bought a book on it's history. I've shined a light thru the bore and it looks good and clean, and the rifling strong (additionally, the muzzle is not dinged and in good shape).
The safety does work, smoothly, and because I'm a dolt, you can see I've idiot proofed it (beyond handling it as 'all guns are loaded at all times').
I thought about finding a period stock with the appropriate cartouches, markings, etc. but I have other more pressing wants and desires for my 'go bang' needs.
If anyone is interested, I can put 'er up on Gunbroker, and she can be yours to restore and adore, and if you'd like more picts to oogle, I can do that too.
Happy hunting for your 303 needs.
Regards.
All,
I can understand your 303 madness. I've had madness over a few other 'beautiful ladies'.
I ran across a '303 Jungle' version (noted by the flared barrel) last week hanging on the wall at a local shop. Was hard to pass up, but again, not my bag.
My 303, seen here is on the catwalk sporting a 'sporterized' stock (the only mod I can tell), and from what I can see, the numbers match, but I haven't given it much looking or bought a book on it's history. I've shined a light thru the bore and it looks good and clean, and the rifling strong (additionally, the muzzle is not dinged and in good shape).
The safety does work, smoothly, and because I'm a dolt, you can see I've idiot proofed it (beyond handling it as 'all guns are loaded at all times').
I thought about finding a period stock with the appropriate cartouches, markings, etc. but I have other more pressing wants and desires for my 'go bang' needs.
If anyone is interested, I can put 'er up on Gunbroker, and she can be yours to restore and adore, and if you'd like more picts to oogle, I can do that too.
Happy hunting for your 303 needs.
Regards.
Nolo
Member
As for the range trip, if there's gonna be one anytime soon, it'll be either the 7th or the 13th. Stay tuned.
alemonkey
Member
I was at Cabela's in Kearney, NE yesterday and they had a sporterized SMLE in very good condition for $115. I really wanted it but my wife would have killed me if I bought it 2 weeks after getting my No.4. MK1. It had pretty much the same treatment as danefraz's No. 4 - the forend had been cut and the handguard removed, and the sight hood was gone. With new front wood and a sight hood it would be a sweet rifle. The bore looked pretty good on it. I hope someone buys it who will restore it to its former glory and not drill & tap it.
On a happier note I found Cabela's has S&B .303 Brit for 8 bucks cheaper than Scheel's here in Lincoln. My rifle seems to really like it, especially the 150 grain.
After my first session I found the forend was slightly loose, so I put a shim under the triggerguard screw to tighten it, and also another shim at the tip of the forend to put a pressure point on the barrel. It really responded well, with my best groups at abou 3" at 100 yards. And that's with the crappy 300/600 flip sight with a huge aperture. This rifle is definitely going deer hunting this year...I've got a Cad Technik no gunsmith mount on the way since there's no way I'll ever drill & tap this thing. I think a scope will really make it shine.
On a happier note I found Cabela's has S&B .303 Brit for 8 bucks cheaper than Scheel's here in Lincoln. My rifle seems to really like it, especially the 150 grain.
After my first session I found the forend was slightly loose, so I put a shim under the triggerguard screw to tighten it, and also another shim at the tip of the forend to put a pressure point on the barrel. It really responded well, with my best groups at abou 3" at 100 yards. And that's with the crappy 300/600 flip sight with a huge aperture. This rifle is definitely going deer hunting this year...I've got a Cad Technik no gunsmith mount on the way since there's no way I'll ever drill & tap this thing. I think a scope will really make it shine.
hank327
Member
Did anyone else notice that the knob on Nolo's bolt handle is hollowed out? I thought that this feature was only found on the No5 "Jungle Carbines".
Regardless, that is a very nice rifle. My first rifle was a SMLE No1 MkIII* so I know where you are at.
Regardless, that is a very nice rifle. My first rifle was a SMLE No1 MkIII* so I know where you are at.
Nolo
Member
Hank, I believe that feature is common on No. 4s, but I could be wrong.
hank327
Member
Hmmmm... My No4 MkII 's bolt handle nob is solid. I'm by no means an expert but I've read that a hollowed bolt handle nob is one of the features to look for in identifying a real Jungle Carbine as opposed to a No 4 that's been cobbled up to look like a Jungle Carbine. I hope one our resident Lee-Enfield experts will comment on this. Oh, I almost forgot to mention that my No5 Mk Is bolt handle nob is hollowed out.
I have two Lee Enfields (okay, I admit it, the Jungle Carbine is still on Lay-A-Way), both are 1945's. My No.4 Mk1 is an FTR'd BSA Shirley (FTR date unkown, the FTR electropenciling is under the enamel, and I can barely make it out). The bolt and mag are not matching. The bolt handle is solid. The Jungle Carbine is a 10/45 Fazakerly, all matching numbers, that has no FTR mrkings and is all original. It has a hollowed out bolt handle.
Jeff F
Member
Never herd of the No 4's coming out of the factory with the bolt hollowed out, only the No 5 jungle carbine.
Jeff F
Member
MJ, was that partial just to the NO 4T'S
DougW
Member
My all matching '43 Fazakerly has the drilled bolt handle as does the '43 Maltby with a non matching but '43 dated bolt. The other 6 #4's have solid bolt handles. My #5 is drilled. It is not specific to #5 and MkII rifles only.
Goblin
Member
I have a Longbranch! I've wanted one ever since I saw Don Johnson use one in the movie " A Boy and His Dog". Cost me $150.00 about 5 years ago.
Jeff F
Member
I have inspected over 50 of the number 4's and own 5 at this time and never seen any with the drilled bolt handles except a few that were none matching and I just assumed they had No 5 bolts in them. I learned something new today.
Nolo
Member
I am going to the range today, and the Enfield is coming with me, so you'll all get your range report, finally.
It'll be short, probably 10-20 rounds, but there'll be plenty of useful knowledge that will come out of it, I'm sure.
Probably won't have any good gauge of accuracy, except whether it can hit the soda can or not.
I might be able to scrounge up some targets, though...
It'll be short, probably 10-20 rounds, but there'll be plenty of useful knowledge that will come out of it, I'm sure.
Probably won't have any good gauge of accuracy, except whether it can hit the soda can or not.
I might be able to scrounge up some targets, though...
Jeff F
Member
Nolo, wheres the range report
Fred West
Member
sirdutch
Member
Nolo's new enfield
Nice Enfield!! No wait! Super nice Enfield. I just got a No 4 Mk 2 that was imported to the States in the Cosmoline a few years ago. The collector that bought cleaned it up and test fired a few rounds through it before I purchased it. It looks like it just left the Faz. Arsenal. It was put though a FTR ( factory Thorough Repair ) It is marked F57 so it was done in 1957.I'm still waiting for the California mandated waiting period to pick it up. I'll post some pics when i bring it home.
You should do a search of "Ian Skennerton" to find the most comprehensive books and short booklets on your particular rifle series. I've ordered the "SAIS #2 booklet that covers the No 4 series. This man is world renowned for his historical knowledge on the Enfield and other firearms. I've asked him questions by email and if he is home he will respond forthwith. Again, looks like you got a great rifle. I would like to know what you paid for it but I understand if you won't say.
Nice Enfield!! No wait! Super nice Enfield. I just got a No 4 Mk 2 that was imported to the States in the Cosmoline a few years ago. The collector that bought cleaned it up and test fired a few rounds through it before I purchased it. It looks like it just left the Faz. Arsenal. It was put though a FTR ( factory Thorough Repair ) It is marked F57 so it was done in 1957.I'm still waiting for the California mandated waiting period to pick it up. I'll post some pics when i bring it home.
You should do a search of "Ian Skennerton" to find the most comprehensive books and short booklets on your particular rifle series. I've ordered the "SAIS #2 booklet that covers the No 4 series. This man is world renowned for his historical knowledge on the Enfield and other firearms. I've asked him questions by email and if he is home he will respond forthwith. Again, looks like you got a great rifle. I would like to know what you paid for it but I understand if you won't say.
All,
I thought I'd post a followup to the post and picts I made earlier...
Your enthusiam for the 303 peaked my interest and well it's catching...
I started reading a bit more on the MK4, No1. Interesting bit of history... Might be fun to shoot along with the M1 Garand and 1903 Springfield that sit next to it in the safe.
So I took my sporterized piece (in pictures above). I stripped her down. To the bare metal and un-identifiable bunch of parts, springs and screws.
To the nekkid metal that is.
I don't have the tool to remove the barrel from the receiver nor could I get the last pinned piece (the "L" shaped piece that actually releases the bolt to fire), but that was incidental to my cleaning and refinishing.
I used a combination of "Simple Green" to eat away most of the paint from it's last re-armorment, and then I used a soft brass brush and a dremel with some metal polish and a plastic brush to get the nooks...
The receiver when polished with a fine metal polish (no grit), was a deep green, and had the barrel matched, I'd have just put more polish and left them bare. But it never works out that way. Different metals, different milling techniques, etc.
What was covered up were the 5 or 6 stamps on the barrel "D-42", 'crown', 'chicken foot / arrow' near the receiver, and other small cartouches. These came out perfect when I cleaned then repainted.
I ordered some new 'surplus' wood for her (minor fitting required). I gave the wood a bath with some cleaner to strip of the years of goop and grease (and cosmo left-overs). I added a touch of mineral oil, and 4 layers of wood wax to give it some protection. My new stock has some good cartouches as well, just that I think they're from the 50s rather than the 40's, but hey - it looks good to me... They're not new, and I didn't pay a fortune...
I had the brass butt-plate. It was a faded mess, and now it's a high shine with the scratches and dings still in place.
I found a replacement sight hood in excellent shape.
All her parts and pieces have been cleaned. This was time-consuming, but I'd rather work in the garage than watch 'dancing with the stars.'
I think it took the better part of two weeks (an hour or so a night here and there). May be 10 hours total to strip her down, polish and prep.
I waffled on 'parkerize' or 'paint'. Painting won out, at $12 for two cans of flat 'high-temp' vs/ $150 for glass-beading and parking. Beautiful turn out... pictures coming soon.
As a note: I used a propane torch to 'gently' heat the metal just before painting - you can do it in the oven if you'd like. If you use a torch, don't go quickly - you want to only 'heat' the metal, not melt or scorch or de-harden it.
Second Note: the torch actually helped remove the left-over polish I could't extract from some nooks as I didn't want to use anymore chemical degreasers...
Third and most important note on using the torch... Aerosol paint is flamable. Open flames and paint fumes DO NOT mix. Common sense says use in a well ventilated area (I do it outside). Second stitch of sense says "Shut off the torch" before you spray...
(I am not responsible if you blow your self up, light yourself on fire or burn down you house, melt your toupee or otherwise loose an eyebrow because you forgot fire is hot)...
Oh - the purpose of the torch... to heat the metal so the paint would 'bake' on nearly instantly. It has a nice finish - looks like a new 'park' job almost (just not quite as durable - but is easy to repair... sprrhhsss and it's fixed).
Rem-Oil on the new paint looks just fine and makes it seem even more to it's day than it was before.
I have a handfull of small screws to find (for the bands) but once I track them down she's range ready.
Oddly enough, I picked up some new brass, some Hornady 150g Interbond pills, and a set of RCBS dies for her too. I'm a fan of 'start low' and work up. I let you know what recipe she likes best.
How does she look now? It's taking shape and looking well. I need to figure out how to highlight the 'electro-pencil' engraving from her last re-armor, but other than that, I'd say sah-weeet. I have to re-polish the surface of the flip-up sights but that's the last of it. I'm torn there too - I might just use a white paint instead. It looks good in black.
I've gotten the trigger group back together (easy enough), but I'm trying to figure out how to remove the 1/4" of trigger travel that seems to have suddenly appeared.
I also will be disassembling the bolt (no tool on-hand presently), giving it a high-shine (glass-like), which will only help the lock-time and such.
I'll give a reload / range report in the next few weeks provided the weather holds as well...
Not counting time, I'm out so far only about $75 for wood and small parts. Figure $30 for dies, $15 for brass (50pcs), $40 for bullets (200), and some primers and powder (around $0.50 each round) and I'm in action at the range.
I probably should start another thread to keep from dancing on Nolo's toes... I'll post it up when I'm ready to put picts, reloading and range report.
Hooked on things that go bang... It's even better when you know how they 'tick'.
I thought I'd post a followup to the post and picts I made earlier...
Your enthusiam for the 303 peaked my interest and well it's catching...
I started reading a bit more on the MK4, No1. Interesting bit of history... Might be fun to shoot along with the M1 Garand and 1903 Springfield that sit next to it in the safe.
So I took my sporterized piece (in pictures above). I stripped her down. To the bare metal and un-identifiable bunch of parts, springs and screws.
To the nekkid metal that is.
I don't have the tool to remove the barrel from the receiver nor could I get the last pinned piece (the "L" shaped piece that actually releases the bolt to fire), but that was incidental to my cleaning and refinishing.
I used a combination of "Simple Green" to eat away most of the paint from it's last re-armorment, and then I used a soft brass brush and a dremel with some metal polish and a plastic brush to get the nooks...
The receiver when polished with a fine metal polish (no grit), was a deep green, and had the barrel matched, I'd have just put more polish and left them bare. But it never works out that way. Different metals, different milling techniques, etc.
What was covered up were the 5 or 6 stamps on the barrel "D-42", 'crown', 'chicken foot / arrow' near the receiver, and other small cartouches. These came out perfect when I cleaned then repainted.
I ordered some new 'surplus' wood for her (minor fitting required). I gave the wood a bath with some cleaner to strip of the years of goop and grease (and cosmo left-overs). I added a touch of mineral oil, and 4 layers of wood wax to give it some protection. My new stock has some good cartouches as well, just that I think they're from the 50s rather than the 40's, but hey - it looks good to me... They're not new, and I didn't pay a fortune...
I had the brass butt-plate. It was a faded mess, and now it's a high shine with the scratches and dings still in place.
I found a replacement sight hood in excellent shape.
All her parts and pieces have been cleaned. This was time-consuming, but I'd rather work in the garage than watch 'dancing with the stars.'
I think it took the better part of two weeks (an hour or so a night here and there). May be 10 hours total to strip her down, polish and prep.
I waffled on 'parkerize' or 'paint'. Painting won out, at $12 for two cans of flat 'high-temp' vs/ $150 for glass-beading and parking. Beautiful turn out... pictures coming soon.
As a note: I used a propane torch to 'gently' heat the metal just before painting - you can do it in the oven if you'd like. If you use a torch, don't go quickly - you want to only 'heat' the metal, not melt or scorch or de-harden it.
Second Note: the torch actually helped remove the left-over polish I could't extract from some nooks as I didn't want to use anymore chemical degreasers...
Third and most important note on using the torch... Aerosol paint is flamable. Open flames and paint fumes DO NOT mix. Common sense says use in a well ventilated area (I do it outside). Second stitch of sense says "Shut off the torch" before you spray...
(I am not responsible if you blow your self up, light yourself on fire or burn down you house, melt your toupee or otherwise loose an eyebrow because you forgot fire is hot)...
Oh - the purpose of the torch... to heat the metal so the paint would 'bake' on nearly instantly. It has a nice finish - looks like a new 'park' job almost (just not quite as durable - but is easy to repair... sprrhhsss and it's fixed).
Rem-Oil on the new paint looks just fine and makes it seem even more to it's day than it was before.
I have a handfull of small screws to find (for the bands) but once I track them down she's range ready.
Oddly enough, I picked up some new brass, some Hornady 150g Interbond pills, and a set of RCBS dies for her too. I'm a fan of 'start low' and work up. I let you know what recipe she likes best.
How does she look now? It's taking shape and looking well. I need to figure out how to highlight the 'electro-pencil' engraving from her last re-armor, but other than that, I'd say sah-weeet. I have to re-polish the surface of the flip-up sights but that's the last of it. I'm torn there too - I might just use a white paint instead. It looks good in black.
I've gotten the trigger group back together (easy enough), but I'm trying to figure out how to remove the 1/4" of trigger travel that seems to have suddenly appeared.
I also will be disassembling the bolt (no tool on-hand presently), giving it a high-shine (glass-like), which will only help the lock-time and such.
I'll give a reload / range report in the next few weeks provided the weather holds as well...
Not counting time, I'm out so far only about $75 for wood and small parts. Figure $30 for dies, $15 for brass (50pcs), $40 for bullets (200), and some primers and powder (around $0.50 each round) and I'm in action at the range.
I probably should start another thread to keep from dancing on Nolo's toes... I'll post it up when I'm ready to put picts, reloading and range report.
Hooked on things that go bang... It's even better when you know how they 'tick'.
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