New Garand Cleaning Question

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JediJJJ

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Just got a new Garand from GarandGuy. It is really beautiful and I don't want to mess it up. Also, it is my first Garand so I don't have a lot of experience with it.

I've been going through some of the CMP and military reprint manuals and all seem to show cleaning it from the muzzle. I really don't want to do that because even with precautions such as a muzzle guide I'm sure something will get messed up. While I don't expect to be competing nationally with it, I'd like to keep it accurate as long as reasonable.

I was considering a Bore Snake to use in place of a rod and patches. Have never used one of those either so I was wondering if any of you Garand experts recommended them or not. Any other tips, hints, directions are appreciated.

Thanx

JediJJJ

P.S. - I tried using the force to communicate with it and learn its ways, but the receiver is SA Aug 1943 so it is pre-George Lucas and hasn't learned the ways of the Force. :)
 
A Bore Snake won't hurt your rifle, but it will do little as far as cleaning.

Get your self a Dewey rod (Dewey product # 30CF25), a brass bore guide for the muzzle (don't get the Dewey plastic guide - horrible design), some patches (I use 1-3/4 patches from Sinclair for 30cal), bronze bristle/core brushes (Tipton or Sinclair in 10 or 12 packs), and you're good to go.

Butch's Bore Shine is an excellent all around solvent. I'm currently using Montana Xtreme and Montana Xtreme 50BMG copper solvent. BBS is a good solvent to use though, because it can be had for less than MX, generally, and it's probably just as good.
 
A boresnake is quite handy for routine, everyday cleaning and I highly recommend it.

In the event that your rifle gets some copper fouling (I've shot about 1,800 rounds of .30-06, both Federal American Eagle, handloads, and Lake City M2 Ball, and there's no noticeable fouling, accuracy isn't affected, and there's no problems) then use some copper solvent and a good rod, but for everyday cleaning I use some CLP applied to the pre-brush area of a boresnake and run the snake twice through the barrel from breech to muzzle. Keeps it clean and running well.
 
When I got my rifle back from McCoy (converted to .308 + all the bells and whistles) he recommended the following after the normal cleaning routine:
Since he had staked the op rod screw, he said I should store the rifle muzzle down and pour just a small amount of Hoppe's #9 down the op rod so it would pool at the end. The next time I fired the rifle, it would clean off the end of the op rod.
I have done this since getting the rifle back in '84. The other day I noticed the op rod screw was loose, so I unscrewed it to check to see if what he reccommended worked. Yep, the end was clean.

Of course, if you have a standard M1 that has not been accurized, the above does not apply since you can break the rifle down for cleaning.

Navy Vet & SWIFT Boat OIC
 
In the event that your rifle gets some copper fouling (I've shot about 1,800 rounds of .30-06, both Federal American Eagle, handloads, and Lake City M2 Ball, and there's no noticeable fouling, accuracy isn't affected, and there's no problems) then use some copper solvent and a good rod
Click to expand...

You must have the best Garand barrel on the planet. I've never seen a Garand that didn't copper foul. A Kreiger with modern commercial bullets, maybe little copper fouling. But any USGI or standard commercial barrel and M2 Ball with no copper fouling? I just find it hard to believe.
 
It would be ideal to clean the M1 from the breech, but you have to use some kind of pull-through system for that. Boresnames are OK for a quick cleaning, but the OTIS is better. Using a cleaning rod is best though.

There are different schools of thought of whether to use a stainless rod or a coated rod, but whatever you choose make sure it is a ONE PIECE rod. I prefer the Dewey coated rod myself.

A guide is a must when cleaning the M1 from the muzzle. Also, be sure to rotate the rifle upside when cleaning so that solvent does not drip into the gas cylinder. If cleaned right-side-up, you'll get a nasty carbon-slurry that will build up over time.

You can also clean the gas system without removing the gas cylinder or the plug. Simply remove the op rod from the rifle and clean the gas cylinder from the rear using a 9mm bore brush and some patches soaked in solvent. Follow-up with dry patches. Removing and reinstalling the gas cylinder, gas cylinder lock and plug can cause a shift in point-of-impact on your rifle. Leave the parts in place to maintain the most consistency.

cdrt: I think you're referring to the gas cylinder plug...not an op rod screw ;)
 
Virtually ALL National Match competitors use a one-piece "service rifle rod" made of stainless, or coated.
The Service rifle rod is a rod that's the exact right length to clean an M1 or M14 rifle.

Many people PULL the rod through the bore instead of pushing it.
When a rod is pushed, it flexes and rubs against the bore. While it likely has no effect on accuracy, pulling the rod eliminates and possible effects.
In addition, pulling the rod toward the muzzle keeps dirty solvent out of the action.

Use a GOOD rod, and a muzzle guide to protect the muzzle, and the barrel will be shot out long before you cause any adverse wear to the muzzle.

The pull-through devices like the Boresnake do NOT do an adequate job of cleaning a bore.
The Otis is more a field kit for use when you can't carry a one piece rod.
BOTH have the glaring weakness of all flexible pull through cleaning devices: Sooner or later, something is going to break, and this leave you with a brush or patch stuck in the bore.

I contacted the maker of the Boresnake and they have NO good method of extracting a broken off snake.
In past months I've heard several cases of broken off Boresnakes and at least two cases of Otis kits that failed.
To be fair, the Boresnake cases seemed to be related to people using Boresnakes too long. They were repeatedly washing and reusing old snakes.

Bottom line is, the best cleaning system for a good barrel is a good rod, patches, and brushes.
 
Great tips here. I love my Garand, hate cleaning it.

a brass bore guide for the muzzle (don't get the Dewey plastic guide - horrible design),
Click to expand...
I have a black delrin guide with a brass insert (might be the Dewey). It is a pain. Just curious, how is the brass guide better?
 
I have a black delrin guide with a brass insert (might be the Dewey). It is a pain. Just curious, how is the brass guide better?
Click to expand...

The black delrin one never goes on straight. Your rod ends up scraping the side of it. The regular brass one is a lot better.
 
brass bore guide

The brass bore guide I have actually fits down inside the bore a little. It kind of looks like something a Garand enthusiast was making out of swaged down .30-06 brass, but it's not quite as long.

It has an O-ring to protect the very end of the bore (the crown), and a knurled surface to hang on to.

The way this design works, the cleaning rod rubs against it rather than the bore.

I believe the intent of the large black Dewey design is to center the brass insert on the bore by fitting the outside of the barrel. The fit just isn't precise, and the cleaning rod can hit the bore even with it in place. (I have one of these, too, and I don't use it ...)
 
Thanks for all the advice. I had just bought a one-piece coated metal rod (red) that might work. I'll try using that and pulling the patches through. Guess now I just need to get out there and shoot it.
 
Does anyone have any pictures of what the chamber should look like on an M1? You know the part where the bullet goes in :) I am looking to buy one but a picture that was presented does not sit well in my mind. Can someone PM me about it please.
 
Don't know what bore derlin guides some of you are using, but I have one and have been using ot for several years now. It only fits on one way, so there is no issues about not going on straight. Have no idea where that problem comes from. There is no way a cleaning rod can hit the side of the bore when going through the derlin guide.

I also bought the little plastic insert that you put between the bolt and chamber so the solvent doesn't drip into the action.
 
JediJJJ:

You'll definitely need a chamber brush to scrub the chamber out.
There are two types available.

The newer type is JUST a chamber brush.
With this one, you attach a section of the butt stock cleaning rod to the back of the brush, and as you move the rod section up and down a ratchet device turns the brush in the chamber.
Be aware that these are available for both the M1 and the M14. Be careful not to buy the shorter M14 brush, it won't do a good job in the longer M1 chamber.

The best brush is the one that's part of the M3-A1 Maintenance Tool.
This tool is used to do a good number of tasks on the M1, from disassembling it, to tensioning the rear sight, to cleaning the chamber.
If you go with the M3-A1 tool, hit the gun shows and check the surplus parts sellers for extra replacement brushes for the tool.

The M3-A1 Maintenance Tool is the best accessory you can buy for an M1, and is considered necessary equipment.
 
With this one, you attach a section of the butt stock cleaning rod to the back of the brush, and as you move the rod section up and down a ratchet device turns the brush in the chamber.
Click to expand...

I have one of these, in addition to the combination tool. Think the former does a great job cleaning, but I find it difficult to remove from the chamber.

Any tips on how to get it out? I'm wary of putting a rod down the bore just to push out the chamber brush.
 
Okay. I'm thoroughly confused. Can someone PM me a complete list of cleaning accessories for the M1 and how to do it?

Thanks in advance...
 
The list is quite simple;

A good cleaning rod. I have a Dewey cleaning rod (one .30cal and one .223) and they work great. I have used a sectioned cleaning rod, as did the millions of GI's. You just have to be careful when using it.

A muzzle guide. Some like a brass guide, but I have and prefer the derlin kind. I have no idea why some people have problems with it, I never have. Maybe its not a Dewey, and I don't remember where I got it but it only fits over the muzzle one way.

The proper size bore brushes and a cleaning tip. Again, some prefer a jag, others a slotted tip. I have both, but use the slotted tip most of the time.

A chamber brush is another item to get.

I also have a bore guide which fits into the action and is held in place by the bolt. It prevents the solvent from dripping into the action.

Patches, cleaning solvent and lube.
 
We need a gun cleaning forum here at THR. You could post stickies of the cleaning process. Pictures, videos, whatever. That'd be great.
 
Update

Sorry to resurrect this but I have been looking for the Dewey 30CF25 rod mentioned above and am unable to locate it. The one-piece rod I bought keeps scraping off the red coating, regardless of which of the several muzzle guides I bought I use. Any pointers to the correct rod would be appreciated.
 
I use an Otis cleaning kit. It is a plastic lined cable to pull brushes or patches through from the chamber. It works good for me. The plastic is pretty thick and not likely to rub off. The kit I have was intended from the AR15, but it works well on my Garands. Since I have this kit, I don't need a rod or bore guide and the kit rolls up into a small pouch.

I still used a boresnake as well, but I mainly use it as a final polish after running several patches through to get the worst of it. It saves some time and gives it a nice shiny bore. It also keeps the boresnake from getting too dirty.
 
There was a article in the latest GCA Journal (GCA = Garand Collectors Association) where a guy tested the muzzle erosion that occurred when cleaning from the muzzle with the worst segmented rods. He estimated it would take up to 50,000 aggressive careless cleaning strokes to wear the muzzle from measuring 2 to 3 on a wear gage. That is a lot of strokes and for most of us it would represent vigorous and careless cleaning after every shot.

His conclusion was that if you use a one piece rod and reasonable care at the muzzle any harm to the muzzle would be unmeasurable. He prefers coated rods but I prefer the uncoated steel and use my finger tips to keep it from banging around the muzzle.
 
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