New M1 Rifle stock

[bernie]

I have an M1 Rifle that I want to drop into a new stock. Everything is great, except for the fact that the original trigger guard will not quite snap shut locking the trigger housing into the rifle. A trigger housing from a buddies rifle will actually work, but it just barely snaps shut. I believe that I need to remove just a little bit of wood from the bottom of the stock where the "floorplate" of the trigger group contacts it. Is this a correct assumption ? Everything else is great, rifle fires fine with the buddies trigger group installed.

Next question, if this is what needs to be done, what would the correct tool for this operation be without messing up the stock. It is a laminated stock.

 

[rmfnla]

Your assumption sounds reasonable but you might want to have someone with some stocking experience take a look at it (remember, you can always remove material but you can't put it back!).

Depending on the shape of the area you might use a sharp chisel or a rotary tool with a sanding drum.

 

[Lee Roder]

Some lipstick on your part can show you exactly where your stock's interference is at any point as you iteratively (!) remove material from the stock to fit.

 

[rmfnla]

Iteratively and judiciously!

 

[1KPerDay]

Go easy... get it wrong and the rifle may double on you.

 

[Maj Dad]

Be very cautious about removing any wood on the new stock. The wood will compress, and you want the lockup tight. Check around & get more input before you remove anything or you may have to add bedding compound. Some of the old GI stocks were built up on the bottom by armorers to keep them serviceable.

 

[Orlando]

Stop, do not remove any wood. TIGHT IS GOOD.
If the end of the guard is about a inch from closing and stops everything is normal for a new stock
You just arent used to what proper fit feels like.
Put a dab of grease on each trigger gaurd lug and insert trigger assembly into rifle. Flip the rifle upside down on the floor or a table covered with a towel or blanket etc.
Now PUSH HARD on the trigger guard, it will close.
After a few times it will get easier.


Heres some work I did on a new Boyds stock receintly:


I got a Walnut Dupage/Boyds stock. The stocks are Boyds that Dupage slimms down 'closer" to USGI specs. Although very close they had a slight overhang so I decided to do some work on them
I started off with 60 grit sandpaper until I had it shaped to proper size. I then used 100 and 150 and 180 for final sanding.
I used a set of Post War handgaurds as models for proper size
Here are some before and after pics. The rear handguard as it was fairly close to size and didnt need much






I took quite a bit off the forearm to get it to size
I used a Post War Stock and handguards as a model for measurements.

After everything was sanded I applied several hand rubbed coats of medium walnut Danish oil
I then remembered that I forgot to do the tilt test, well she failed the test so had to get out the sandpaper again
I had to remove some material so the stock ferrule would sit lower enough so the Op Rod didnt rub . I used a utility knife to remove wood then sand slightly to smooth


You can see here where the OP Rod was rubbing , I removed a small amount of wood along the whole length

The Op Rod was rubbing pretty good all long the inside, so I removed wood there also


The rear handguard was to long on the nose and extended to far through the band and actually kept the front handguard front sitting where it should. I sanded off some there also

Got her all back together






The rifle is one I sent to Shuffs Parkerizing a few years ago for a repark, recrown the muzzle, and reworked the trigger
http://www.shuffsparkerizing.com/

My impression of Dupage/ Boyds stocks :
Even though they are slimmed they still need some work to reduced overhang. The wrist of the stock is about the size of Post War stocks
Stock fit and lock up is tight, just be sure to check the tilt test.
At first I wasnt very excited about them but now that I am finished I guess they arent a bad deal for the price. Just be prepared for some sanding of your own

It was alot of work but all in all it was worth it. I actually enjoyed it. Overall I am very pleased with the wood. Cant wait to get to the range and try her out with her new set of clothes.
I have a Fancy Grade walnut Dupage/Boyds stock that is next on the agenda.

 

[1KPerDay]

That looks great. did you use a sanding block?

 

[Orlando]

Sanding block to shape then handsand

I always use BLo but thought that since this was a commercial stock I would try something different
I used Watco Danish Oil that has stain in it, medium walnut.
I applied a good coat of oil and let it set the used very very fine wet/dry sandpaper and lightly sanded the stock while wet creating a slurry, dipping the sandpaper in the oil as needed. I then hand rubbed this into the wood.
I then gave it 4-5 more coats of oil over the next two days. After it was completely dry the stock looked good but I wanted just a hint of shine so I gave it two coats of Johsons Paste wax

 

[CZguy]

Stock fit and lock up is tight, just be sure to check the tilt test.

What's the tilt test?

 

[Orlando]

This video can show it alot better than I can explain it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tlIoxbtdPXY
Its a pretty important thing to check especialy on a commercial stock.
If the Op Rod rubs on the inside of the stock it can effect accuracy as well as function

 

[1KPerDay]

Thanks for the tips Orlando. I have a nice M1 "special" that has proud wood around the handguards and am working up the courage to try to sand them down a bit.

 

[Orlando]

Its really simple, just takes time a elbow grease