New Model - Combat Shark

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Valkman

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Based on the Landshark, this is inspired by 2 things. John Shirley's thoughts that it was perfect for soldiers and my wanting to expand to 3 different models of knives for soldiers. I have the 6" blade 12" overall Fighter and next want to design a 5" blade 10" overall model.

This one is the second one made and like the first has rubber handles made from horse stall mat. The stuff is horrible to work with and to grind so these will be the first and last of these models to use it. From now on it'll be micarta or G10! :)

The first prototype is going to John Shirley to test. This is my first coated knife, and I used AlumaHyde from Brownell's in Dark Parkerizing Gray. I coated the handles and everything!

This one does not have a lanyard tube but the regular ones will.

Tell me what you think!

COMBAT SHARK
3 3/4" blade, 8 3/4" overall length
3/16" CPMD2, HT by Paul Bos
1/4" SS pins
Coated with AlumaHyde

left1_rubber.jpg
right1_rubber.jpg

As you can see the rubber separated from the tang at the guard - this stuff does not like to be ground thin and the 'Shark has too many curves. I'll save the rubber for some big Fighters with simpler handles.
 
Nice work! I'd love to see it with dark gray Micarta handles.

Any chance you can leave a bit of steel sticking out at the rear to use as a pommel and glass breaker?
 
Can't wait to try it out, Don.

It was kind of funny- I described all the important things, and the Land Shark was already almost all of them! :D

I'm also eager to test my first CPMD2 knife.
 
Nice! Love the blade shape.

Just a suggestion (and I have no idea how dificult it would be) but how about using an epoxy to put some horse stall mat inserts in some G10 scales?

Chris
 
I like it, and I second the pommel/glass and wire breaker idea. I also am glad to see your adding a lanyard hole. No good combat knife should be without a lanyard hole.

I have to say, I fail to see what the attraction to horse stall mat is. I certainly mean no offense to you Don, but I just don't care for the looks of that at all. Different strokes, I guess....
 
Looking Good Don. Your skillz have gotten AMAZING since we met a few years back. :) Good JOB.

Hows the AlumaHyde working out for you?? I tryed using the GunKote from Brownells and it flaked off,even after I did everything perfectly right,according to the directions. Still it didnt work. Glad you are making the AH work. Hows the wear resistence?
Anyways, keep up the great work Don. :)
 
I have no idea how the AH will do, it's the second knife I've done. I just started coating with this stuff and powdercoating

Thanks Eric, we both have gotten better!
 
What are your thoughts on a holster/sheath?

Would it be ambi?...blade edge forward or to the rear?

salty
 
I'll get Tom Krein to make a Tec-Lok sheath for me. If the sheath is mounted high on my left side and inverted, the blade will face towards my left arm.
 
I visaited Mr. Krein's web site but his sheath area was under construction. Is his Tec-Loc similar to the ambi retention system that was at one time used by Gerber for the sheath used with their double edge, double cross guard dagger?

Thanks,

salty
 
Tek-Loks can be put on without undoing your belt, come in small or large and let you carry vertical or horizontal. Very convenient. The only better attachment I've seen is for MOLLE gear, and most of us don't need that.
 
This is more what I was trying to do - here's Prototype #3!

This one has Black G10 handles with blue liners. I clamped the handles on, finshed them with the grinder, removed them and recoated the knife. I have not epoxied the scales on because I'm out of lanyard tubing, but it looks real nice. Or, you could throw it to the enemy, and it'll fall apart in his hands! :)

left1_G10.jpg

right1_G10_apart.jpg

Man this is easy! First, get a knife, 2 handles and 2 pins. Put together. Done!

Anyway, I can't do much with the back of the handle yet because all I have are tapered tangs and they're very thin at the back.
 
As you know, I really like your Land Sharks. I can't say I'm a fan the of coated rubber handles as shown in the first photos. Maybe it's better in the hand or in person.

Is there a slight recurve to the blade or is it an optical illusion?

The original rear of the Land Shark would make a unique pommel/glass break by just leaving it full thickness and shortening the scales just right.

I enjoy seeing your unique designs so please keep sharing them.

Dan
 
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