New Pietta 1860

[K.A.T.]

Here is my new Pietta 1860.



Here is my changed to an old 1860 after the blueing was removed.



Took off all the writing on the barrel. Filed it off with medium size file, then went to a small file, then cleaned it up with sand paper.




Took it out in the back yard and tried it out at 25 yds. 28grs. FFFg 454 ball and a lubepill, #10 remington cap. You can see it was shooting 11'' inches high. Group was O.K. there is 18 shots in the target. Point of aim is at the writing on the bottom of the target.



I shortened the end of the hammer to lower the rear sight. Look at the difference in the hammer compared to the blued Colt.



Here is the new target with the new lowered rear sight. 18 rounds again, same load, same point of aim. Now is only 4" high.



If Pietta had of used the front sight that is on this "Colt" 1860 I think I would be right on point of aim.



Did I mention the Pietta was free, I have a Bass Pro Shop visa, buy everthing on that card and it builds up points. Went down and cashed them in. I get anywhere from $20 to $30 a month in points, and just let them add up.

Now I'll just let nature take over with a little rust, I think the grips look fine like they are, they don't have that shiny look like the Colt grips. I think I will try to change the front sight to a little taller one and bring it to p.o.a. Here is the Pietta and the Colt 1860.

 

[scrat]

White Steel. Looks sooo good. Excellent job.

 

[StrawHat]

Those two look familiar.

Here's two of mine.



Instead of filing the markings off, I use a hardened rod to burnish the mark closed.

Works about the same and no metal is removed.

A holster and some time took the majority of the blue off.

 

[scrat]

Wait here is mine



Oh pics shown. Clint eastwood with 1860, and original Jesse James with 1860

 

[JayC]

Straw Hat, please explain about burnishing with a hardened rod.

 

[mykeal]

 

[StrawHat]

JayC Straw Hat, please explain about burnishing with a hardened rod.

JayC,

Burnishing is a process of moving metal with a hard object.

In this case a hardened rod, mine is 1/2" diameter, is rubbed back and forth over the stamped lettering while exerting downward pressure.

Accent on exerting pressure.

When the marks are stamped in the firearm, a die is struck to disrupt the metal in a pattern to produce the letters or marks.

Burnishing merely pushes the disrupted metal back into place.

It is neither quick nor is it blameless. It takes about 1 hour to remove the marks from the barrel and the barrel does need a little emery paper and refinishing.

Even if you don't need the emery paper, the barrel will still need to be refinished as the bluing is removed.

You can also burnish the proof marks from the frame.

I learned how to do it when learning how to repair antique firearms.

It takes a little practice and do NOT expect quick results.

I am almost done with another barrel, wish I would have taken pictures of the process.

I will post before and after shots, when finished.

Good luck

 

[JayC]

StrawHat

Burnishing sounds like a technique that would be good to know. Where would I shop for a hardened rod? Is this a specialized tool, or just a piece of stock that could be used for other purposes? One other question: can it be done on octagonal barrels, or is that likely to damage the edges? I wouldn't mind practicing on junkers that I have accumulated over the years that would be no loss if damaged.

 

[StrawHat]

JayC,

My burnishing tool is from a neighbor who works in a machine shop. I described it to him and a month or so later, it appeared.

1/2" diameter and about 12" long. And it is hard, it has to be hard.

I use mine to work over flats, rounds and curves.

Use your imagination and you will see how you can burnish almost anything.

It is harder to burnish a flat than a round object.

I first used burnishing to fix gold and silver into inlay undercuts prior to engraving. From there, I decided to try it to iron out stampings. It worked.

Not sure how I will use it next.

 

[JayC]

So I guess you put a file handle on one or both ends and rub? It's too long to chuck into a drill, it seems.

 

[scrat]

ok case hardened. Why dont i just take a case hardened Impact socket. The black type. Get a 1/2 drive deep socket maybe in 3/4 inch. Its case hardened. Impact grade. Easy to hold and handle.
i think im going to give this a try.

 

[StrawHat]

JayC,

Sorry, I did not provide enough detail.

Yup, one hand on each end, push and pull while pushing down HARD.

If you can hold it flat to the surface, octagon barrels are easier than round but neither is too difficult.

Good luck

Scrat,

If the surface of the tool can be cut with a file or distort with a hammer, it is too soft.

You need something hard enough to force the metal back into place.

I knew one oldtimer who could do it with some specialized hammers he made but he was good. When he got done the surface was smooth and did not need to be touched with a file, just grit paper.

 

[JayC]

StrawHat

Thanks for the reply. When I Googled "burnishing" or something similar, one of the first sites I found was a company in India that makes burnishing tools. One of them looked like it would be chucked and run inside a pipe or something. I wasn't sure whether your tool would be used more like a file or a rolling pin. I see that the technique is more akin to filing than rolling. I guess the real trick is finding a source of hardened rod, like the sockets discussed in a post above.

 

[krs]

A piece of drill rod, size large; tool steel; the socket above might work OK but would be a little difficult to drive/use because of it's short length. The socket would need the finish removed - you want a smooth surface. After a while burnishing tools are something you'll spot in garage sales, flea markets, and the like. Different shapes can be useful, and sometimes a corner used judisciously will work faster than a rounded shape.

The hammering techniques are probably best left alone by people new at the process unless you've got someone will ing to teach or at least show you how it's done and how it works. This is old world stuff that can produce very nice results in both steel and softer metals. Many of the old swirl or shaped patterns in copper or silver were done by using variations of burnishing techniques.

It's about pushin' them metal molecules around.

Be sure that the object of work is well supported because the emphasis placed by Strawhat on the high pressures needed were perhaps understated, but that all depends on the hardness of the object of your work.

It's fun. Sometimes it seems like magic.

 

[JayC]

I find this burnishing topic very interesting. I'll be looking forward to some photos of the process and results.

 

[Omnivore]

We've made burnishing tools out of file blanks or even old files. Hard stuff, that. Shape them carefully (without overheating the steel) to a rounded surface and buff to a gloss finish on a buffing lathe. We tape them up with some cardboard inside to make a firm "handle". Hold the burnisher close to the work and PUSH. We did this with brass, silver, gold, and nickle-silver musical instruments, to straighten and re-shape them after being damaged. Back in the day (up until the early 20th century) entire instruments would be meticulously hand-burnished as a means of finishing-- I mean every square millimeter. Some amazing stuff was done with pure sweat and blood. This was done with armor and other iron work too. It also work-hardens the surface, so if it seems to be getting harder, that's mostly your arms giving out, but it's also the metal getting harder as you work it.

If you want more of a gloss finish, use some anhydrous lanolin. Spread it on the piece being worked. We do that to avoid scratching silver and gold-plated finishes. It even protects a lacquered finish if you're not getting too aggressive with it. Just don't slip off-- that'll mess up your work, and since you're using so much pressure, you can hurt yourself too. This takes some finesse along with pure bruit force. It builds your upper body though.

You can order them in several shapes and sizes from musical instrument repair suppliers:
http://www.musictrader.com/bandsupp.html