Ok, I just bought myself a 4" blued Ruger GP100 in .357. I decided I needed a full size wheelgun! THis is a very nice gun, I'm very excited about it. I'll post pics soon. So, as I do with everything I buy, what should I do to customize it? What suggestions are there for grips, sights, etc.? I'll of course shoot it a bunch before I change anything, but getting a head start never hurt. Thanks.
New Ruger GP100--Need suggestions
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fletcher
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All changes will be based on your preference, so I recommend shooting it and then deciding what you could put on yours to improve it.
I own a 3" GP-100, and the only problems I had were with the front sight (no contrast), and the springs (a little too heavy). To remedy the spring problem, I got a set of Wolff springs and guessed-and-checked until I found one that felt the best. I have yet to find a good front sight, though.
I own a 3" GP-100, and the only problems I had were with the front sight (no contrast), and the springs (a little too heavy). To remedy the spring problem, I got a set of Wolff springs and guessed-and-checked until I found one that felt the best. I have yet to find a good front sight, though.
Bowen's Rough Country rear sight is a huge improvement over the factory sight, IMO. Very solid and durable, and less likely to snag on material. You can also get red insert front sights from Ruger if you prefer those to plain black.
mtnbkr
Member
Yes. I still have the front sight on my GP100. The rear isn't a complete replacement of the stock rear sight and sits on top of the stock assembly. Therefore, it effectively raises the rear sight. That's not a problem in most cases, but I shoot 180gr bullets from my GP100 and that became a problem when I couldn't regulate the sights to shoot to POA at less than 50yds. That said, they may have redesigned the sights in the 7 years since I bought my set. Otherwise, they're great. The fiber optics really glow outdoors, but don't do much inside.
Chris
Remove the cylinder pawl (thingie in the bottom of the frame that locks the cylinder in place) and polish it to a mirror finish. Hopefully you are fortunate enough to do this before you have used the gun and scratched drag marks into the side of the cylinder.
P. Plainsman
Member
Yes. Your gun shop can order one or you can order through Ruger's website.
http://www.ruger.com/Firearms/FAAccView?acc=1104
This is, IIRC, the same red insert sight that comes standard on the Super Redhawk (which shares some components with the GP100). I use it on my GP and like it a lot.
The part of the pawl that rides against the side of the cylinder as the cylinder rotates (it typically drops halfway thru the rotation to the next chamber). These are typically rough as a cobb and will scratch the finish on the cylinder with repeated use. This will be very noticeable on a blued handgun. It's a timing thing that is typical with Ruger revolvers, I'm told. You can start with just a touch or two (a LIGHT touch) with a dremmel sanding drum, and finish up with the polishing compound to bring it to a mirror shine. Don't remove any metal or change the shape in any way. Touch up bluing with cold blue. My GP100 is stainless, and definitely had a rough pawl. It touched up nicely and I do not have the ring groove around my cylinder that is evident on so many other GP100's.
If yours is already smooth as glass, or close, then don't bother with this. That, however, would be the exception, not the rule. If you have any doubts in your ability to perform this without damaging the revolver (Ann Landers voice here) then "seek professional help". i.e. a gunsmith. This merely prevents the pawl from making an unsightly scratch on the cylinder, and does not affect performance of the revolver in any way. Keep a light coating of Breakfree CLP on the gun and you should not get a groove worn.
Just shot it. This is one great gun. I may have to change my screen name to TX.357Fan. Dead accurate, much more than me. I was shooting holes inside of holes. I love it. 100 rounds, not a hiccup. And, it made my Springfield Champion 1911 feel small in my hands. Woo hoo. Love it. I typically get custom grip inserts, and change the mainspring. I like going with a mainspring one rating lower than the factory. It is still 100 percent reliable, but it takes about 2 lbs off the DA trigger pull. For the grip inserts, I like the simulated ivory.
YMMV
YMMV
CPLofMARINES
Member
Welcome!
Excellent choice! No need to change anything, that's my opinion. I own a 6"
SS GP100. Low recoil with full house loads. Finished off a 375 lbs. boar, to the back of the neck with Win. 158 grn. SJSP, worked really well. I'm sure Fed. castcore's or Rem. 165 grn. SJCL would do better!
Semper Fi
Excellent choice! No need to change anything, that's my opinion. I own a 6"
SS GP100. Low recoil with full house loads. Finished off a 375 lbs. boar, to the back of the neck with Win. 158 grn. SJSP, worked really well. I'm sure Fed. castcore's or Rem. 165 grn. SJCL would do better!
Semper Fi
sfhogman
Member
I have a stainless 6" model. After cleaning and lubing, I would shoot the heck out of it then clean and lube again. Put LOTS of rounds through it before doing anything. You'll save money by getting to know the gun before changing anything....
Mine has a Millett orange bar front sight which my old eyes love. It also has a Wolff mainspring. I tried the Hogue Monogrip and kept it for a while but eventually went back to the stockers, with Lett silver grey inserts.
Best,
Jeff
Mine has a Millett orange bar front sight which my old eyes love. It also has a Wolff mainspring. I tried the Hogue Monogrip and kept it for a while but eventually went back to the stockers, with Lett silver grey inserts.
Best,
Jeff
TxCajun
Member
Aside from militec + heat, the only thing I've done to mine is clean, lube and shoot. I like it just fine and it keeps getting better.
sounds like your's is plenty good. all of the above advise is right on. If you try the wolf springs, some of the mainsprings will give ignition failures. The guy who use the one just a step down from factory strenght has it right. A lot of times, the trigger return spring is all you need to change to significanly lighten the pull. As the gun smooths in, you might find you can go to the next lightest TR spring and still get good trigger reset.
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My son uses a GP100 in ICORE and USPSA. His gun has replacement grip inserts from Lett, a Bowen Rough Country rear sight and a Marbles fiber optic front sight. Other than that, I replaced his trigger return spring with a lighter one, polished the trigger group, cut 4 coils from the mainspring, and polished the bar that sits inside the mainspring. It has about an 8 lb. trigger pull and is reliable with all factory ammo we've tried, and all of the loads I make him for matches.
I ordered the Wolff springs, and put the 10 pound mainspring on. We'll see how that goes. I actually don't mind the trigger pull, so if I have any problems, I'll just change it back. Changing the trigger return spring looks way too complicated, so I'm leaving it as is.
Actually does LOOK very complicated but turns out not to be. ruger disassembly thread:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=159058
the trigger return spring /plunger also locks the major structures together. changing the spring is very simple:
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=159058
the trigger return spring /plunger also locks the major structures together. changing the spring is very simple:
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