New S&W 627 won't fire

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billvau

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I took my new toy, a 8 round 357 627 pro center to the range. Pulled the trigger five times with Remington .38 special ammo. No booms. I could see indents on the primers but the hammer appears to be hitting too lightly.

I am a rookie in this department, but I am in the process of sending it back to S&W. Any ideas on what is the problem?
 
Is it a new gun or did you get it second hand?

Is the main spring screw backed out?. That's the one in the front of the grip frame. It should be tight. IF it is not tight, you may be getting light hits on the primer.

Try that first before sending it in.
 
I can think of a number of possible reasons, but since I won't have an opportunity to examine the piece; I'll suggest that you do send it in and hopefully have everything that might be out of order looked after.

When a cartridge does fire, the primer is fireformed around the tip of the firing pin which makes the hit look deeper then it really was. Those lighter dents on the ones that didn't go off may not be telling you a reliable story.
 
Iggy,

It is brand new, never fired (literally). I was surprised to see it at Bud's a month ago.

I am a novice with revolvers, are you referring to one of the two screws on the right side of the gun, one just behind the trigger and in front of the grip, and the other above the trigger? Both are snug.

My wife happened to be taking her CCW class today, and took that pistol with her to show the instructor. He said the hammer clearly wasn't hitting hard enough and agreed that the best course of action was sending it back to S&W.

Kinda of surprised that the Peformance Center would send out a gun like that. But I understand they are stressed with heavy demands these days.
 
The strain screw is located in the front strap of the grip frame. You may need to take the grips off to see it.
 
I just took off the grip and found that screw. I tightened it and the hammer force increased significantly. I bet that was the problem. How much do I tighten that screw? I could have tightened a bit more, but wasn't sure if that was wise. Also, is this screw prone to loosening again later? TIA
 
Tight. Use a standard handle screw driver with a hollow ground tip and turn in until its tight. It is not an adjustment screw; it needs to be tight, just like the sideplate screws. Don't over think it. :)
 
You got her fixed..

^^^+1 The strain screw needs to be "Bottomed Out". Tighten until it stops, and then just a little tighter to hold.

I'll bet a Coke that now it will not need to be sent back to S&W??...:uhoh:Bill.
 
The screw is there to allow the tension to be taken off the spring when the gun has to be disasembled. It is not intended as any kind of adjustment for the trigger pull.

Jim
 
Thanks for all the good info. I was able to easily get about three complete turns of the screw. Now that I understand that the screw is not for adjustment but supposed to be really snug, I'll go back and put just a little more torque on it.
 
Use some blue locktite when you tighten this screw. It's REALLY annoying to have it back out in the middle of a range session.
 
If you tighten it, blue lock-tight is not necessary, or desirable.

I've never had one back out all by itself in 50+ years.

rc
 
It's remarkable that your wife's firearms instructor was clueless about this, as most revolver owners could have helped remedy this problem without a second thought. It's terrible that such instructors are only good for telling people how to clear jams in automatics!
 
It's just the natural progression of evolution.

Bottom feeder shooters get full and float to the top eventually.

And become firearms instructors / experts / or RSO's when they dry out behind the ears.

rc
 
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