New SP101: Trigger Reset Question

[GP100Wii]

Howdy, just picked up an SP101 (357) new.

It's DAO (bobbed hammer)

Question
I noticed that when I pull the trigger, and then slowly release to allow it to reset, there is no "lock-up" point. In other words, while releasing the pulled trigger, there is no spot where the trigger locks if you try to pull it again before allowing it to fully reset to normal position. It just does a trigger pull with no result.

When doing this with my GP100, there is a phase in the trigger cycle where the trigger locks still if you try and pull it back before resetting.

Problem or good to go?

 

[tightgroup tiger]

I just tried that with my sp101 and the trigger has to be released 95% to reset.

I'd have to say you have no problem. Enjoy your new Ruger.
If it's as good as mine I know you'll be happy with it.

 

[Control]

I'll bet the "lockup after false reset" is still there. Its just hard to feel because your trigger return spring is strong (as designed).

If you put a lighter trigger return spring in the revolver, you'll most likely be get it to "lock up after false reset" more easily.

You can also try to let the trigger return slowly and catch it at the last part of the return with the full power trigger return spring. You're looking for a small window and that may be hard to hit with a full power trigger return spring.

I always run with a full power trigger return spring to avoid the false reset. I also don't ride my SP101 trigger like a semi-auto. Revolvers are not 6 shot semi-autos! "Lock up after false reset" is not a design error. It is how the revolver is supposed to work.

Everything you need to know (and more!) is here:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/6128704bcecbafe8622e6be57028d96b-782.html

Enjoy your SP101. A good choice in my opinion!

 

[GP100Wii]

Okay -- but, before it reaches 95%, and you pull it back anyway, what happens? It's supposed to stick in the forward position, not allowing you to pull back until you reset it. Mine pulls back with a weird click sound to no effect.

 

[GP100Wii]

I'll bet the "lockup after false reset" is still there. Its just hard to feel because your trigger return spring is strong (as designed).

If you put a lighter trigger return spring in the revolver, you'll most likely be get it to "lock up after false reset" more easily.

You can also try to let the trigger return slowly and catch it at the last part of the return with the full power trigger return spring. You're looking for a small window and that may be hard to hit with a full power trigger return spring.

I always run with a full power trigger return spring to avoid the false reset. I also don't ride my SP101 trigger like a semi-auto. Revolvers are not 6 shot semi-autos! "Lock up after false reset" is not a design error. It is how the revolver is supposed to work.

Everything you need to know (and more!) is here:
http://www.grantcunningham.com/blog_files/6128704bcecbafe8622e6be57028d96b-782.html

Enjoy your SP101. A good choice in my opinion!

Right -- I'm looking FOR it to "Lock up after false reset" -- just to make sure its functioning correctly. When shooting I always allow it to reset.

Mine doesn't lock up, so I'm concerned something's not working correctly. I just bought it and paid good money so I want it to work exactly perfect by design... I'm sure you understand.

 

[Drail]

Every Ruger GP or SP I have handled or worked on needed to come almost all the way forward to reset. On some it is hard to feel the point where reset has taken place. As long as it resets every time I wouldn't think you have a problem. I have seen a great many people think that there was something wrong with their trigger only to learn that they were not coming forward far enough to allow reset, especially if they were used to S&W triggers only.

 

[Control]

Ok GP100Wii, I get that you are looking for the lock up after false reset.

I don't have any better advice beyond releasing the trigger very slowly and trying to catch the lock up in the last little bit of travel before full reset. In the last little bit of trigger return travel, you'll hear the pawl click as it engages the cylinder to turn it. A moment later, you'll hear the trigger plunger click over the cylinder stop just before full reset. You need to stop the trigger return between the pawl click and trigger plunger click. Go very very very slowly and make sure you have the leverage and hand strength to fight the trigger return spring or it will push past the point you are looking for as designed.

It is possible to delay the pawl click so that it is nearly at the same time as the trigger plunger click. Many good Ruger smiths offer this as a service. If yours is set up this way, that lock up could be very hard to find.

I think you are the first person I've ever heard complain that the lock up wasn't there! Is your sp101 brand new? Maybe Ruger changed something to make the lock up even harder to hit?

 

[GP100Wii]

It is brand new, yes.

I don't really care that the lock-up isn't there. I care that if it's supposed to be there and it's not, which concerns me that there may be more issues with the trigger (i.e., that may show up). It will be my primary CC gun so total reliability is the issue.

Also, I paid a bunch for it, and, as a new gun, I want it perfect.

 

[sgt127]

Have you actually fired it yet? Most of the complaints I hear about Ruger having a soft reset don't actually happen while you are shooting it. If you sit still and slowly manipulate the trigger, you can find the "dead" spot on the trigger return. While actually shooting it, the recoil will bounce you through all that.

I can short stroke any revolver while playing with it, not very often while actually shooting it.