New to Loading looking for some advise

[Bill Siler]

So I just purchased a Hornady AP Progressive loader and was hoping to get some help with component's.
I'm getting back into shooting after 15 years or more away, thanks to my daughter she's 16 and wanted to learn to shoot. She loves it so much and is good at it 3" groups at 30 feet her first time out, so I figured getting a reloading machine would help as we live in California and my understanding is that its going to be hard to by ammo very soon here.
I have been lurking around here for a few days, spent hours reading and am wondering what would be the best starting powder and primer with a coated projectile? I would like to load light loads for my daughter to help her with recoil. FYI we will be shooting a Glock 34 and later on I will be doing a trigger job. Keeping in mine the issues here in California and not knowing when Component's will be the next thing they limit or try to control I was wanting to fond something that I could buy bulk in and be happy with.
I see a lot of people like TiteGroup, BE86 W231. I think I read something that the faster the powder burns the less recoil? With the Glock and a possible trigger job in the next 6 months what about Primers? Then the projectile I understand that a 124 over a 115 will help with recoil as well.
I had done a lot of reloading when I shoot before but it was for shotguns and this is way different I know that's why I am treading lightly and want to learn as much as I can. The reloading was fun for the shotguns and think it will be equally fun with handguns.

Well thanks for the info and sorry for the long message I am sure I will have many more to come.
Bill Siler

 

[Decoy80]

I'm going to reccomend CCI primers. Not the cheapest,or the highest only reliable ignition you can count on.
You did not mention caliber so I won't reccomend powder at present but am sure you will be a wiser person from reading the posts here on THR welcome to the crew.

 

[Bill Siler]

I'm going to reccomend CCI primers. Not the cheapest,or the highest only reliable ignition you can count on.
You did not mention caliber so I won't reccomend powder at present but am sure you will be a wiser person from reading the posts here on THR welcome to the crew.

Sorry the Glock is a 9MM. That is needed for powder and primer info.

Thanks

 

[z7]

I have only tried a few pistol powders, they last a long time in 9mm, but I am a huge fan of BE86, I use cci primers with no issues.

For bullets, visit Rocky Mountain reloading and buy their FMJ rounds they make in house

They are cheap and well made. I am waiting on another shipment of them right now actually

There is a long thread on Be 86 on here already and you can get some good info on what loads have worked

Alliant has load data online, but they list max loads only so reduce by 10% and work up looking for the accuracy, recoil and function desired.

Load a dummy round, no primer/powder and make sure the round “plunks” in the chamber,

From what I understand you have two potential issues, one is seating too long and the bullet jamming the rifling which can cause reliability issues or perhaps safety issues

The second is your crimp could be wrong, too much or too little can cause the case to hang up in the chamber or not feed properly


Good luck, have fun, I am a big fan of the competition sized glock

 

[wrench459]

I'm getting back into shooting after 15 years or more away, thanks to my daughter she's 16 and wanted to learn to shoot... I would like to load light loads for my daughter to help her with recoil. FYI we will be shooting a Glock 34 and later on I will be doing a trigger job....

My Granddaughter did just fine with handling the recoil.
Short bbl (3.1) Power pistol 124 gr boolits.

 

[rdtompki]

My wife and I both shoot steel challenge where there is no minimum power factor. 115gr with a fast powder (N320, W231, others) can be very soft. Our 9mm 1911s are probably easier to tune than a Glock and certainly heavier, but I'm sure you can find a soft load. With a minimum power factor 135 and 147 gr bullets seem to be common. Also, the heavier bullets have a different recoil "feel" so they say. I would think most of the name brand coated bullets will be fine. I've been very happy with Bayou and Acme.

I'm sure if you Google "soft load for Glock GXX" you'll get a million hits; Glock fanfolks are everywhere.

 

[mstreddy]

OP, welcome to THR. It's an invaluable resource in our hobby. But, I'm going to suggest that you take it slow. Not just read what you find here, but maybe pick up a reloading manual, or two, and go through the instructional chapters. The stickies in the reloading library of wisdom have some good information as well. Since you loaded shotgun before, you have some principles, but pistol and rifle are a bit different.

As to loading on a progressive, to start you may want to get comfortable with one process at a time. That is, set up the sizing die, ensure everything is working well, and run a few with only the sizing die in. Then the expander, then the powder measure, then finally the seating/crimping.
I'd suggest some type of powder lock-out or "cop" die. The RCBS lock-out will stop the press in an undercharge/overcharge situation. The Hornady powder cop will indicate (visual by way of a rod) the charge level. But, you HAVE to be looking at it.

Many here seat/crimp in two operations, others do it in one step. I prefer the latter.

Similarly, there are many that are running the LNL and other progressive presses and prime off the press. There are others that prime on the press. I'm in that camp. But, read around as there are some things to be aware of. Keep the primer shuttle and punch area clean of debris. A can of compressed air is a great addition to the bench.

On loading for the Glock 34, I have found that my lighter loads that cycle the 19 and 17 fine may sometimes be a little too light for the 34. I do prefer 124/125 grain bullets over 115s. But recently I've been loading 147s to play with subsonics.

Again, welcome to THR. Be safe, have fun!
Congrats on having your daughter take up the hobby.

 

[ray15]

As for buying in quantity, if you are getting the stuff shipped that's the only way to go due to a fixed hazmart charge that you can spread across many pounds of powder and thousands of primers. If you have a good local outlet you can purchase in smaller quantities if you choose.

I use CCI primers. The only thing I've seen that's significantly cheaper is S&B when Cabelas has then on sale, and they don't at present. S&B works but CCI is pretty much the industry standard at this point due to quality and availability. Winchester is also routinely available these days and works great for me too. Fiochi is about the only other small pistol primer available at present and although I've not used them reports are generally favorable.

I've used the Acme coated bullets and they work very well for me with a fairly stout charge of CFE Pistol, which doesn't work so well loaded lightly. I use Titegroup for lighter loads, and although it works excellently is may be a bit tough on the coating on the Hi-Tek coated stuff like Acme. I get a little smoke from the coating with CFE-P, and would expect more with Titegroup. Alliant has a new powder called Sport Pistol that has published data for Acme projectiles and its burn rate is faster than average. It should be great for your stated goals and solves the published load data void common to coated bullets.

As others have mentioned you can get quality FMJs pretty cheaply these days. I've used ones from RMR and Everglades with great results. You have to buy in large lots from Acme to beat their prices by a functional amount. I would also rate the FMJs as a little easier to load for a beginner, although quality coated bullets like Acme are also workable. For light loads with plated or jacketed bullets I use Titegroup.

 

[Decoy80]

In reply to your confirmation I would suggest these powders for 9 mm.
For the 124 gr. projectiles: Unique and HS- 6 are the ones I use.
For the 115 gr. projectiles: HS-6 ,WIN 231,and Bullseye.
Those are the ones I use. For light loads using 115 gr. projectiles I use WIN 231 to assure cycling on my Ruger, it is a finicky eater.
There are many other powders available that your gun,or guns might like better.
Load data may be found at the manufacturers websites, I don`t even suggest to know what is safe for your guns and I suggest Hornady`s latest Handbook of Cartridge Reloading would be good as any to start. It won`t be alone on the table long as there are others you will probably want as you walk this path.
Good luck and may Safety guide your hands rolling your own.

 

[Dudedog]

Welcome to THR
Lots of great people here.

Buy a manual if you don't have one. I would suggest Lyman 50.
Check powder makers web sites for load data.
As mentioned Alliant's site only lists MAX loads reduce by 10% to start.

Double check any load data you get off the internet posted by an individual.
Typos happen, some people load heavy, best to be safe.

Buy a bullet puller, you may need it, and you may just want it for "Did I......."

I would suggest getting a RCBS lockout die for the LNL. I am really happy with mine. It will prevent the press from advancing with a empty case, a double charge, or a charge that's to far off from what you want.
To far off being defined as what the die can catch, not what is allowable. Money well spent.

For 9mm I like 124/125gr bullets the best.
I prefer a medium burn speed powder for 9mm like WSF over faster powders like Titegroup/HP38/Bullseye/Red Dot.
To me it just feels less "snappy"
WSF has less muzzle flash than Power Pistol and is about the same burn speed. Works well from light-medium to Full power loads in 9mm.

I also like CFE-P, BE98, Universal, HP38 in 9mm.

Lot's of powders will work in 9mm.
Some will meter better through you powder measure than otheres.

Rocky Mountain Reloading has excellent 9mm bullets and offers free shipping. 5% discount for THR members with a code. (PM me)
Missouri Bullet Company offer nice coated lead bullets and aslo offers THR members a 5% discount.

Both are great companies to do business with.

Lots of other good coated bullets out there, ACME, SNS, Bayou and others

My match load which is a bit lighter than factory loads is 4.4gr of WSF with a RMR 124 FN at 1.08 OAL (lower than listed start charge but a shorter than listed OAL)

Reloading Pistol is more flexible than reloading shotgun within reason (if you are not loading MAX loads), you can substitute different primers and bullets of the same weight easier.

Be aware that shorter OALs increase pressure.
You don't have to match the OAL listed but always keep in mind if you go shorter pressures go up, so you will need to back off the powder charge.
Search for Plunk test here, it will show you how to see what the longest OAL that will work for you is.
I have multiple 9mm pistols so I frequently load shorter that the longest OAL I can use.

Note in general lead or coated lead need a lighter charge than a jacketed bullet to achieve the same Vel, plated are somewhere in the middle.

Don't want to write a book so I'll quit here,
Be careful, enjoy, and if in doubt ask us questions.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

I agree CCI-500 primers are a good choice for your 9mm ammo and I really like W231 for loading coated bullets. A charged of 4.0gr to 4.4gr of W231 under a 124gr bullet is what I use.

@4.4gr you will be able to load close to 1,590 rounds/lb.

Give W231/HP-38 a try and if you like it you can put in several 4lb cans or an 8lb can that will allow you to load well over 12,500 rounds. Depending upon how much you will shoot you can buy components for many years in case California lawmakers get crazy again.

8lbs HP-38 $142
12,000 CCI-500 primers $338
12,000 124gr coated .356" bullets $816

For $1,300 and your time and once fired brass you get 12,000 rounds of 9mm.

 

[joneb]

I have been having good results with this, http://www.alliantpowder.com/reloaders/powderlist.aspx?type=1&powderid=38&cartridge=23 for 9x19

 

[Dudedog]

May be mistaken but I don't believe you are legally allowed to have more than 10K "loose" primers in CA.
Double check the laws on how much powder/primers you are allowed to have, CA has stupid laws there as well.

 

[someguy2800]

I have great luck with S&B primers from cabelas. They go on sale regularly for $20 per 1000. My favorite 9mm bullets are Berry's 124 grain target hollow point. Very economical in bulk and best accuracy of anything I've ever shot in 9mm

 

[Dudedog]

I have great luck with S&B primers from cabelas.

Same here, pretty much switched to them for all my pistol use.

 

[Blue68f100]

I've used many brands over the decades and they all work. The only ones I will not buy is Wolf SP, they were a pita to seat. CCI has always been my go to primer of choice. Since your starting with the LNL-AP I would recommend a Ball Powder like the WSF. Stay away from large flakey powders that do not meter good, aka Unique. WSF will fill the case and make it easier to confirm powder. I do not recommend TG for any thing, particular someone starting out. If I need to use a fast burn powder I normally use WST. I use WSF for my 9mm, good for mid to +P loads if you want to push them, gets sooty at the low end. As far as bullets I prefer the 124 gr over the 115. When I shooting in a indoor rand I use the plated bullets, Berry's mainly. With the WSF and 124gr the recoil is more of push than a snappy feel. I've been running on a LNL-AP since 2003, loaded many 1000's of rounds through it. I primer on the press and don't have the problem other report as long as you keep every thing clean on the primer sled the minor problem for debree does not cause any issues. Take all the time to get priming system adj properly, alignment. I have not needed to adj mine in many years (10+). I use the Powder Cop for monitoring powder drops, mainly because it can be used with rifle rounds too. I also use the Hornady PTX freeing up a station for the powder cop. I also crimp in the last stations. It just easier adj the seating die this way and the machine runs smoother.

 

[Tony k]

There are more powder/bullet/primer combinations that will work for OPs goal than won't work. One powder you may want to avoid is Power Pistol because it doesn't do well at low charges weights, and at higher charge weights it produces lots of recoil.

Many competitive shooters like heavier projectiles because they result in a slower recoil impulse that feels more manageable.

 

[bullseye308]

Any 124 grain RMR bullet, any small pistol primer, and 4.6-5.2 grains of BE-86 will make your day.

As for ordering components in bulk, you can store the max amount of powder and primers at your place, and the rest at a family member's house, or with a neighbor. Simple, easy, and legal way to have enough components to keep you busy for a while.

 

[Bill Siler]

Guys thanks for all the info. I see many suggest a book of witch I did buy the Hornady most resent addition is the Lyman Manual a better manual to have? The press shows up tomorrow so I can start putting it together. I am going to see if I can find a lockout die locally here this weekend as I like the idea of this.

Plan on starting slowly one operation at a time to start with. Lots of reading before I start.

Once again thanks for all the help.

 

[kcofohio]

Bill, welcome to THR!

I'm not familiar with recent Hornady manuals. The Lyman's manual gives great detail about reloading. From case prep, primer info, powder low-downs, etc. Lots of basic information to point you in the right direction. Oh, and if you get into cast bullets, also good information.
As I said, not sure what is in Hornadys. I would think at the least you would get pointers on setting up and trouble shooting your LnL.

Be safe, watch you powder drops, and there is always someone here that will help when you get stumped.

 

[dgod]

I personally like Hornady, Lyman #50, and especially the New Lee (2nd Edition), Perfect for the new individual to reloading, each and every step is explained, and there is a LOT of reloading data or each specific caliber. All 3 are very good references.

Good Luck,
Dan

 

[DazedandConfuzed]

Since you're up for joining a firearms related forum and a California resident, you may also want to consider Calguns.net. A lot of BS, but what forum doesn't have some! In the ammo reloading section, there is a private reloading sales sub-forum that may have local reloaders that are selling excess/extra components that may interest you. Also group buys for further discounts or to share Hazmat charges. Be safe and enjoy this fantastic hobby.

 

[Tony k]

Guys thanks for all the info. I see many suggest a book of witch I did buy the Hornady most resent addition is the Lyman Manual a better manual to have? The press shows up tomorrow so I can start putting it together. I am going to see if I can find a lockout die locally here this weekend as I like the idea of this.

Plan on starting slowly one operation at a time to start with. Lots of reading before I start.

Once again thanks for all the help.

Im of the opinion that having more manuals is a good thing. So I have both the Hornady and the Lymans....and Sierra, and Lee and speer, lol. Seems like many people have multiple manuals.

I've got the Hornady manual on Kindle with all my calibers bookmarked. Pretty handy.

 

[Hokie_PhD]

Any 124 grain RMR bullet, any small pistol primer, and 4.6-5.2 grains of BE-86 will make your day.

As for ordering components in bulk, you can store the max amount of powder and primers at your place, and the rest at a family member's house, or with a neighbor. Simple, easy, and legal way to have enough components to keep you busy for a while.

When I began reloading I started with Win 231/HP38 it’s a good powder but I agree the 124 gr RMR and BE86 is really nice.

I’d suggest before OP buy components in bulk that he try several to see what he likes and dislikes. I have some Accurate 7 I really don’t like. It was one of the few powders I could get during the last shortage. If I had to use it or not shoot, I’d use it. But I prefer the BE86/RMR 124 gr combo, followed by Win 231/HP 38.

As for manuals, I really like the Lee one followed by the Lymann one. I’m sure others are good but they’re the two I currently have. I also have PDFs and the free books from several powder companies. Free is one of my favorite prices to pay. And the manufacture books, PDFs and websites tend to have the newer powders that some of the older books like Lee don’t.

 

[Bill Siler]

Since you're up for joining a firearms related forum and a California resident, you may also want to consider Calguns.net. A lot of BS, but what forum doesn't have some! In the ammo reloading section, there is a private reloading sales sub-forum that may have local reloaders that are selling excess/extra components that may interest you. Also group buys for further discounts or to share Hazmat charges. Be safe and enjoy this fantastic hobby.

Nice I have been to the site but not spent much time on it. I will join soon and check it out. Thanks for the info