New to me Dan Wesson

[Pistolpositive]

Today at a gun show i bought an older Dan Wesson .357 magnum revolver, with 6 inch barrel. I had gone back to pickup a pistol pack that I had walked away from, but that is another story. In any event it is in decent, perhaps 75 percent aesthetically. Mechanically seems very good.
Not knowing anything about this my research indicates it is probably an early 70s gun.
But what I need to know is how to identify what grips I need. I want some nice wood ones to replace the hogue style on it now.
Gun definitely seems like it will be home in my eclectic assortment of handguns. I hope it is as good of a shooter as I have read. My most accurate handgun at present is my 357 k-frame smith with 4 inch barrel in single action mode.

 

[NIGHTLORD40K]

Have you tried CZ USA? They are currently manufacturing the DW revolvers and AFAIK the grips are interchangeable with the vintage guns.

I just bought my first DW last week, an 8" .22. The centerfires dont get me excited because I prefer a full steel gripframe, rather than the stub on the DW (and GP100), but the lack of such on the rimfire doesn't irk me as much.

In any event, they are high quality guns with a great reputation for accuracy. Im sure you will like it, congrats!

 

[stonebuster]

Join the Dan Wesson forum as I did when I bought my first DW (15-2 V6 357) last year. The members are knowledgeable and helpful. They've got a serial number registry where you can determine your production year. They also have an "Average Joe" tune up tutorial that after reading makes disassembly incredibly simple. If you post your serial number I can look it up if you like. X out the last two numbers of you want. How about a photo?

 

[Pistolpositive]

Will check out the Dan Wesson forum. I am in a few forums - not only do I have too many calibers for reloading, I have too many brands for researching
Serial on mine is 1291xx

 

[drband]

Will check out the Dan Wesson forum. I am in a few forums - not only do I have too many calibers for reloading, I have too many brands for researching
Serial on mine is 1291xx

Hope you got a good deal! That's a fine pistol. Finish wear should have gotten you a discount, but I bet it's a phenomenal shooter!

 

[Pistolpositive]

Hope you got a good deal! That's a fine pistol. Finish wear should have gotten you a discount, but I bet it's a phenomenal shooter!

Not a great deal. The pistol kit was a superior deal at $650 with a gun showing few blemishes. Mine was $495, which appears to be an OK price. It is primarily a shooter. I understand I can acquire new barrel covers.

 

[stonebuster]

Will check out the Dan Wesson forum. I am in a few forums - not only do I have too many calibers for reloading, I have too many brands for researching
Serial on mine is 1291xx

Very nice. Your gun is 1977-79 from what I could find on the registry. If your gun is 6" you have a 15-2 V6. My revolver "collection" is also a variety of S&W, Rugers, DW and a Colt in 38 spl, 357 and one 22lr. CZ and EWK has barrels/shrouds in various lengths as well as some parts. there's a lot of used barrels/shrouds on ebay. If you don't have a barrel wrench(small frame), EWK makes a very good one for @$28. I bought a 4" barrel/shroud from CZ for my 15-2 V6. I'll post a photo of the new 4" barrel and a wood DW stock I found on Ebay for $20. There's a lot of DW grip options on ebay.

 

[dbmjr1]

You have a model 15 Revolver. If it were stainless, as mine is, it would be a model 715.

Look on the side for the place of manufacture. Monson Mass guns are prefered.

These are incredibly sturdy guns, with a great design.

I've got three barrels for mine, and the Six inch is, by far, the most used.

Get yourself a barrel wrench, and a shim right away.

The barrel wrench will fit every screw on the revolver.

The Shim sets the cylinder / forcing cone gap.

 

[RUT]

>>EWK makes a very good one for @$28<<

He also makes a nice fiber optic front sight (easily replaceable) if that's your thing. I put one on my DW 715 and it works great.

 

[stonebuster]

You have a model 15 Revolver. If it were stainless, as mine is, it would be a model 715.

Look on the side for the place of manufacture. Monson Mass guns are prefered.

These are incredibly sturdy guns, with a great design.

I've got three barrels for mine, and the Six inch is, by far, the most used.

Get yourself a barrel wrench, and a shim right away.

The barrel wrench will fit every screw on the revolver.

The Shim sets the cylinder / forcing cone gap.

Not trying to be nit picky here but the OP should know it's not a model 15 but a 15-2. The model 15 was the "pork chop" type shroud and a thicker front sight. I only mention this because not all the parts are interchangeable between the two.

 

[Pistolpositive]

Jeez, guys a lot of information in a hurry. I was figuring out the nomenclature and had realized it was a 15-2. Thanks.
I have found at EWK, the Dan Wesson small frame wrench (with 357 pilot) and the Dan Wesson gauge kit. All of their barrel assemblies and sleeves are sold out, but not too worried about that. No shims found as well. I am betting the next barrel I will want will be the 2 inch.

 

[Riomouse911]

IMHO, the 2 inch VH shroud is a bit funky, since the frame and grip just seem rather large for it when I compare the gun to my round-butt 3” S&W Model 13 or 2.5” Model 19. Even the smooth round butt fingergroove grip that DW made is large.

Hopefully EWK will make more of the 3” sets. Those look and feel a bit better than the 2” ones. (My pistol pack came with 2-4-6-8 VH barrels/shrouds and I added the 3” VH to another frame I bought off GB)

As was stated the 6” strikes just about the perfect balance/shootability point for the DW frames.

Good luck with your search for more DW stuff, it’s addicting .

Stay safe.

 

[stonebuster]

Deleted

 

[9mmepiphany]

IMHO, the 2 inch VH shroud is a bit funky, since the frame and grip just seem rather large for it

For the shorter barrel, I really like the "V" shroud. The underlog being cut back from the muzzle seems to balance the whole gun better

 

[Riomouse911]

Ya, the VH ones are pretty heavy. If DW barrels in great shape weren’t so dang pricy I’d go out and buy 4 and 6 inch V should/barrel assemblies... but since they’ll just duplicate the ones I have it’s not really worth it.

Stay safe.

 

[DWFan]

If you are looking for a short barrel, I highly recommend EWK's 3" EH (extra heavy) barrel/shroud set. The extra weight really helps when shooting full-power ammo and the 1:12 twist is great for .38 Special target wadcutters. Besides, it adds a very distinctive look to the revolver.
These shrouds (and any other shrouds for the later -2 models) will fit the older "porkchop" models with an adapter sold by EWK.

 

[Pistolpositive]

Well. new to me DW 15-2 with 6 inch barrel is in pieces. First range trip lasted precisely one cylinder of 357 mag ammo in SA mode before problems arose. It fired one or two rounds in DA mode before the mechanisms started locking up - hammer would not come back, challenging to get the cylinder release to release. Worked through the cylinder and another, turning cylinder manually to unlock the action, etc. Gave up, grabbed my reliable Taurus PT-1911 and my CZ 75B (pre-Omega) and sent a bunch of my first reloads from my new Lee Progressive Pro 4000 down range.
Got the revolver home and disassembled it - well have not removed the trigger. Pretty dirty inside. Also want to see what I can to polish the cylinder. Removing spent casings was challenging at best.
I was not impressed. Never has a Smith or a Ruger behave as such, although I do not know the history of the gun so I should hold my opinion until after I or a qualified gunsmith gets it back to firing condition. I will say that first cylinder of rounds in SA mode was impressive.

 

[RUT]

It could be something as simple as the cylinder gap being too tight. The book calls for .006 thousandths, although some have been known to run it slightly closer. At any rate, this would be the first thing I'd look at.

 

[Pistolpositive]

It could be something as simple as the cylinder gap being too tight. The book calls for .006 thousandths, although some have been known to run it slightly closer. At any rate, this would be the first thing I'd look at.

After I get the parts cleaned up and ready to reassemble will be checking on the procedure for verifying cylinder gap. I have received a bunch of shims, have a gauge and so hope to figure that out. Gotta spend some effort polishing the ammo ports (for the life of me don't recall the correct name for them) in the cylinder to see if I can get it easier to remove spent cartridges as well.

 

[9mmepiphany]

Gotta spend some effort polishing the ammo ports (for the life of me don't recall the correct name for them) in the cylinder to see if I can get it easier to remove spent cartridges as well.

Chambers

 

[Pistolpositive]

Chambers

Well that made it much easier to search for the tool I might need to clear out these cylinders - cylinder hone. Looks like two levels (400 and 800 grit). Must be done at lower speeds and oil needs to be used.

 

[ApacheCoTodd]

Well. new to me DW 15-2 with 6 inch barrel is in pieces. First range trip lasted precisely one cylinder of 357 mag ammo in SA mode before problems arose. It fired one or two rounds in DA mode before the mechanisms started locking up - hammer would not come back, challenging to get the cylinder release to release. Worked through the cylinder and another, turning cylinder manually to unlock the action, etc. Gave up, grabbed my reliable Taurus PT-1911 and my CZ 75B (pre-Omega) and sent a bunch of my first reloads from my new Lee Progressive Pro 4000 down range.
Got the revolver home and disassembled it - well have not removed the trigger. Pretty dirty inside. Also want to see what I can to polish the cylinder. Removing spent casings was challenging at best.
I was not impressed. Never has a Smith or a Ruger behave as such, although I do not know the history of the gun so I should hold my opinion until after I or a qualified gunsmith gets it back to firing condition. I will say that first cylinder of rounds in SA mode was impressive.

Also note that sometimes, those symptoms can be a sign of an over tightened grip screw or the grip screw being altogether incorrect in the first place.

Back the screw waaaaay out and try cycling.

Todd.

 

[ontarget]

Be very careful with a hone. If you remove too much it will be an expensive fix.
May I recommend Mothers Mag Polish on a bore mop of appropriate size? In my opinion much safer than a hone. Remember you are only trying to polish not enlarge your chambers.

 

[Pistolpositive]

another suggestion I received was a piece of emory cloth on a wooden dowel. You are right, it would be easy to go to town with the hone.

 

[robhof]

Jeez, guys a lot of information in a hurry. I was figuring out the nomenclature and had realized it was a 15-2. Thanks.
I have found at EWK, the Dan Wesson small frame wrench (with 357 pilot) and the Dan Wesson gauge kit. All of their barrel assemblies and sleeves are sold out, but not too worried about that. No shims found as well. I am betting the next barrel I will want will be the 2 inch.

For a shim, go to an auto parts store and get feeler gauge with .06 and .04 blades and you're good to go, factory set was .06 for 357's but I set mine at .04 and they worked fine, I ended up with the 357SM with a B/C gap of .02. Great gun and best out of the box accuracy of any gun I've shot... I got the gun with the 8" barrel and added the rest from Ebay!