New to me W. German Sigs

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rellascout

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First up a KE date code Sig P220. W. German folded slide with the older grip style. Perfect condition. No frame ware or even wear on the rails. Bar dot sights. Solid DA/SA trigger. No Sig rattle. It is tight.

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Second is a KF date code P226. W. German folded slide with standard grips. It was refinished in cerakote graphite black. It has a barsto match barrel installed by barsto. It has a nice fiber front sight installed. The trigger is smooth. Nicer than the my old Gray Guns P226.

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They are oiled up and ready for the range.
 
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Some older Sigs have tendency to be a little loose. After about 500 rounds there is a little play in the slide to frame fit. It does not effect accuracy but it bothers some people. I have had Sigs that rattled but shot lights out.

The P220 is tight. Very few round through the gun.
 
What's a good price to pay for the West German Sigs? I've seen P6's for $500 at one gun shop, and $250-300 online.
 
A P225 is worth $500

A P6 is worth $300......

Different guns IMHO.

If you can find them under $550 OTD in good condition then you have a deal. There are tons of them out there. They are for all intents and purposes new guns.

That P220 has 98% of its life still in it. The best piece of advice I can give you is to get a good transfer dealer. Someone that will transfer a gun for under $20. This really opens up the deals you can get.
 
Rella, are you still going on about this?

All P6's are P225's. Not all P225's are P6's.

A P6 is a contract variant of a P225 produced for the German police forces.

It's the same thing as a Ford P71 Police Interceptor. That's a contract variant of the Ford Crown Victoria produced for the police market. All P71's are Crown Vics. Not all Crown Vics are P71's.

You can argue about the slotted hammer, the stronger-power mainsprings, and the slightly lesser quality fit & finish of the LE contract guns all day long.

I can point out the certified speedometer, fast-ratio steering box, and blacked-out trunk badging on a P71 Police Interceptor (among other mods).

P6's were a great deal at $259. They are well worth $300-$350 if in good shape with both magazines. They are NOT $500 guns. Then again, a used P225 in similar condition to a German PD trade P6 is not a $500 gun, either.
 
Rellascout you are going to make me go out and cerrakote my scratched, faded, grey West German P220 and P226! Nice pistols!

P6's were a great deal at $259. They are well worth $300-$350 if in good shape with both magazines. They are NOT $500 guns.
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+1 on that. My P6 is a great pistol for less than $300...its absolutely not a $500 single stack 9mm!
 
I was very impressed with the cerahide finish. It matches the frame nicely.

As for the P6 argument we can go round and round it. You forgot to mention that there is a good chance your P6 will not feed hollowpoints. They were made to feed euro ball ammo.

evan price you might not pay $500 for a real P225 but there are tons who do. They prefer them over the P6.

I personally own a P225 and would not trade it for a P6 ever.

These were my first buys of 2009. :)
 
What value, though is a P6 in unissued new condition?
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It really depends on the serial number range and the buyer. LNIB P6s were sold for $300 every where less than 6 months ago. I think the nice conditions ones are gone from the dealers shelves.

I think a fair current price for LNIB is $400
 
The main thing to look for in a P6 is how wide the feedramp is (will it shoot hollowpoints) and how worn are the slide rails. If the slide rails are still black or grey, the gun is in good shape.

LNIB P6's are crowding $500 IF you can find them. Most P6's in good shape are in the $400-425 range. I just bought one from a pawn shop for $425 and I have no idea of who has owned it since it was imported. I can tell you that it dates from 8-80, and feeds/ejects everything I can find including hollowpoints. Any semi-auto that will do that is a gem I'm glad to find even if I pay a bit over what it's probably worth.
 
LNIB P6's are crowding $500 IF you can find them. Most P6's in good shape are in the $400-425 range. I just bought one from a pawn shop for $425 and I have no idea of who has owned it since it was imported. I can tell you that it dates from 8-80, and feeds/ejects everything I can find including hollowpoints. Any semi-auto that will do that is a gem I'm glad to find even if I pay a bit over what it's probably worth.
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Good find. You are right about the width of the feed ramp. There is a serial number range that is better than others. Springs are the other issue.

The gun was previously owned by a German Police department. There was a huge number of them sold back to Sig in Germany and then imported in 2008.
 
You forgot to mention that there is a good chance your P6 will not feed hollowpoints.
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If I were to carry mine for serious purposes (mine is currently a range gun) I would load it with Corbon Powerball or Federals Expanding FMJ ammo.
 
Shot the Sigs today..... Both these were at 10 yards. They are of course more accurate than I am.

P226: First DA shot I pulled low and had to walk it in.

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P220:

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durn 220's just amaze me - makes me want to sell a dozen 1911's every time I think about them...... great catch rellascout
 
Hello Rellascout

You were nice enough to offer a post to my question of slide rattle with my stainless steel slide P226 CPO ("SIG CPO guns...how good are they?"). Well you nailed it! Took this pistol to the range...didn't matter what I put in it. It ran perfectly and consistently shot sub 2" groups to the point of aim at 25 yards. Still can't get the grin off my face. Bought a very nice El Paso Saddelry small of back holster for it...the best way I know to keep a large pistol out of sight as we are required to do here when we carry. With regard to ammo most of the LE community seems to be divided between some form of 124 grain and 147 grain HP. I've settled on the 147 grain hydroshock. Just wondering what your preference is for SD ammo?

Thanks again for answering my question.
 
I am glad to hear the Sig is running like a champ. They are very nice guns. Such soft shooters.

To me it is what feeds best. I personally like 124+p Gr Gold Dots. I also used to like Winchester Ranger 124 +P+.

Hydros are good ammo. In the end it is going to be more about shot placement than the difference between one bullet and another.

I typically shoot about 100 rounds before putting a gun into defense position in the rotation. Only exceptions is my S&W 642.... if it cycles it shoots... :)
 
Okay, the early 80's W german P6's had 2.5" barrels I believe, what size is the barrel on a P225? At $500 and that short of a barrel, I immediately eliminated those P6's I saw.
 
Okay, the early 80's W german P6's had 2.5" barrels I believe, what size is the barrel on a P225? At $500 and that short of a barrel, I immediately eliminated those P6's I saw.
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What?????

The P6 from Sig has always been a 3.9" barrel.

http://www.remtek.com/arms/sig/model/225/225.htm]

The P6 was a contract version of the gun. Like the M9 vs a Beretta 92 FS.

There are a handful of features that are different on the P6 than the P225. Fit and finish are the major difference. Then there is the strange hammer. A non hollow point feeding ramp. Recoil makes the DA pull unbearable. IMHO

These are all correctable.
 
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