New to reloading, review my purchase before I buy

[Sypher....]

Any links, or names, of the free reloading manuals?

 

[thomas15]

Google the following:

Hodgdon
Alliant
Western

That will give you some free stuff. Check with your local supplier of powder they should have a free copy of the Hodgdon Basic Load Manual waiting there for you to pick up.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

I started with the Lyman 49th and Hornady 9th manuals. Within six months I also bought the latest Speer, Lee, Hodgdon periodical, and the all new Western Powders manual. Much of the data in these manuals can be found on line, but I don't care to keep a PC in my reloading area, and I refuse to pay for internet service at home. So I like hard copies to reference. There are also tips and histories in the manuals that are good info to have.

More load data is certainly better than less.

 

[thomas15]

A comment for in the back and forth question regarding case cleaning capability. This is like debating the question "does a new mom need to put diapers on the baby?" The answer to that question is no, you don't have to, but it sure is a nice thing to do.

I actually don't understand why so many posters are advising the OP not to buy some kind of case cleaning contraption. There are a lot of little tiny itsy-bitsy things that most of us get to go along with this hobby. Most of them are not absolutely necessary. But they are nice to have. These things cost money. Some kind of case cleaner; a vibratory tumbler, an ultrasonic cleaner or a wet pin tumbler is one place to throw some of that surplus funds that we all have laying around and makes the reloading experience and product much nicer.

I have successfully cleaned brass in a plastic bucket using orange degreaser which is inexpensive but that leaves the handloader with wet brass, same as ultrasonic and pin tumbler cleaning.

 

[Olympus]

The nice thing about the wet is that it controls the dust which is toxic.

A dryer sheet and a lid on a vibro tumbler will also control the dust. As will tumbling outside the house.

 

[Zaydok Allen]

A comment for in the back and forth question regarding case cleaning capability. This is like debating the question "does a new mom need to put diapers on the baby?" The answer to that question is no, you don't have to, but it sure is a nice thing to do.

I actually don't understand why so many posters are advising the OP not to buy some kind of case cleaning contraption. There are a lot of little tiny itsy-bitsy things that most of us get to go along with this hobby. Most of them are not absolutely necessary. But they are nice to have. These things cost money. Some kind of case cleaner; a vibratory tumbler, an ultrasonic cleaner or a wet pin tumbler is one place to throw some of that surplus funds that we all have laying around and makes the reloading experience and product much nicer.

I have successfully cleaned brass in a plastic bucket using orange degreaser which is inexpensive but that leaves the handloader with wet brass, same as ultrasonic and pin tumbler cleaning.

Agreed. Of all the reloading stuff I've purchased, the brass cleaning side of it is one of the least expensive things, and I'd much rather be handling and running cleanish brass trough my press than dirty.

 

[thomas15]

A dryer sheet and a lid on a vibro tumbler will also control the dust. As will tumbling outside the house.

So does putting a little bit of Nu-Finish car polish and a dash of mineral spirits in the crushed walnut.

 

[Jack B.]

Any links, or names, of the free reloading manuals?

As thomas15 states all of those he listed are free, either online or some will send you a manual . I've been getting one from Alliant for years. Also if you call a bullet manufacturer and ask real nice they will send you free load data on the bullet you have inquired about. Usually by email.Speer has done this for me. You can also get all of Speers load data on line now. Oregon Trail , Nosler and VihtaVuori have all their data available on line. Vectan powder has also sent me their manual for free. Almost all of the bullet and powder manufacture's will bend over backwards to help you. Let your phone and computer do the work for you.

 

[Jack B.]

Reguarding dust during dry media brass cleaning. Every brass tumbler and brass media separator I have ever bought came with a lid to prevent problems with dust. Plus I do all my tumbling out in the garage. I have never had a dust problem.

 

[SG1]

I'm probably the least experienced of anyone posting, but as a new reloader I can tell you a couple things I've found so far. Like you, I went for the Lee Classic Turret press deluxe kit. I remember reading "this kit and a set of Lee dies is all you need to get started". This is probably true (other than components) but there are a couple things I've found that you probably need or want. First, like everyone else said, get manuals. I got the Lyman 49th, the Hornady 9th and the Lee 2nd edition came with the press kit. As others have stated, there are more out there both physically and online, but I agree that the Lyman 49th and the Lee 2nd edition manuals are a great resource for a new reloader. There is so much info in both of those books. Read them first! All of it up to the load data. Then skim through the load data for the load you want to try first.

Second, when I made my first few rounds of ammo I wanted to make them dummy rounds (no primer or powder) to get my seating depth/OAL and crimp right and to learn exactly how the press works. This worked out great, especially since you can run the LCT as a single stage press when removing the auto indexing rod. The problem was, after I got everything set up correct, now I had 5 dummy rounds that I no longer needed. So my next suggestion would be to spring for a kinetic bullet puller. I got one for about 17 bucks. It works great! If you have an extra $15, you might also pick up a collet puller. I was loading lead so the kinetic puller worked great but if I had to pull a bunch or jacketed stuff I would rather use the collet puller.

Third, I had some difficulty setting up the Lee balance scale. Others have eluded to this being crappy. It's ok for me, but I did not trust it completely. You'll need to read and watch a couple videos to figure out how to get the 0.1gr slider right. I got a Frankford Arsenal DS-750 digital pocket scale for $25 from the big box store. It has a cover, a nice powder pan and a lid to keep the scale closed. It also comes with a check weight to calibrate it. I set up my Lee scale and use it to check against the digital scale when dialing in the powder drops. It has worked like a charm so far. You certainly can buy more expensive scales, but the FA scale gets great reviews for the price.

I was also told by many experienced reloaders that you don't have to clean your pistol brass, or to just use a rag to wipe them down, wash them in dawn, etc. I went ahead and spent $80 for a Frankford Arsenal vibratory tumbler kit (no, I don't work for or have affiliation with this company, but enjoy their products for the price point). It comes with the vibratory tumbler, media, media separator, bucket with lid, and brass polish. I also like it because the tumbler has an off/on switch so you don't have to unplug it every time to turn it off. So far, I've tumbled about 600 cases and have been very pleased. I used the advice of cutting used dryer sheets into about 3" squares and put them in the tumbler to keep the dust down. I also use the lid on the tumbler.

In addition to all that, you can go nuts with accessories and tools to make the job much easier. I have also since purchased a Lee hand primer and hand primer shell holder set. I've also picked up a KMS squared UFO light for the LCT and let me tell you, it's worth every penny! So much to learn and do. Just take it slow, completely understand what you're doing and double check every step. I have really enjoyed it so far and think you will too!

 

[AmmunitionDepot]

It looks like a good start. I agree with starting starting off dry tumbling with corncob media instead of the steel pins.

 

[Toprudder]

Good choice on the LCT press.

I'm a big fan of wet tumbling, but I started out dry tumbling and it is certainly adequate for the task. IMHO, wet tumbling really doesn't begin to make sense unless tumbling larger batches than the Harbor Freight tumbler can handle. Small batches are much less labor intensive with dry tumbling than with wet/pins. The Frankford complete kit that @SG1 mentioned is perfect for that task. (His whole post above is good advice. )
https://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Ar...00TTILBC/ref=pd_sbs_200_2/146-3596650-7491726

I agree with most that the Lee balance, while functional, is not the best for the task. I've had good luck with the Gemini 20 digital scale that can be purchased on Amazon for < $25.
https://www.amazon.com/Smart-Weigh-GEM20-Precision-Milligram/dp/B00ESHDGOI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

I also agree on more manuals, the Lyman is a good one to start with.

Good luck!

 

[Zaydok Allen]

It looks like a good start. I agree with starting starting off dry tumbling with corncob media instead of the steel pins.

I get good results with 50/50 mix of corncob and walnut with a bit of Hornady Oneshot.

 

[mdi]

I'd suggest you get the text first, The ABCs of Reloading and read it before you purchase any equipment. I will show you, in addition to "How To", the equipment used and you'll get a better "feel" for what will suit your reloading needs. Also get your reloading manuals prior to equipment and especially components. Most good manuals (Lyman, Hornady, Nosler, etc.) will have a good "How To" section too, and when you are ready, find a load in your manual(s) before you buy any components.

I reloaded about 12 years before I got a tumbler and produced some very good, shootable and accurate ammo (and I wasn't interested in impressing anyone at the range). I just wiped each case with a rag, lightly dampened with solvent as I inspected it (inspection is the first step in reloading). Bright, shiny, glossy finished brass adds nothing to your handloads other than cosmetic bling (or maybe an ego thing ).

At the very beginning I was reloading 38 Special, 357 Magnum and 44 Magnum so I really didn't need to measure OAL because I used bullets that had a crimp groove or cannalure and I seated the bullets to the cannalure or groove. I had micrometers, calipers and other precision measuring tools from being a lifelong machinist/mechanic, but other than measuring lead bullet diameters, calipers and mics can wait a while.

Many of the tools for reloading can be thought of as personal choice. I have been reloading for well over 35 years and don't have a primer pocket cleaning tool. I don't use cartridge gauges as I plunk test my semi-auto ammo and not needed for my revolver ammo. There's a few other examples but when you research a tool think "will this make my reloads and better or easier to produce?". I'm a confirmed tool nut but there are tools I have passed on when I answered "No"...

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...

 

[CMV]

A comment for in the back and forth question regarding case cleaning capability. This is like debating the question "does a new mom need to put diapers on the baby?" The answer to that question is no, you don't have to, but it sure is a nice thing to do.

I actually don't understand why so many posters are advising the OP not to buy some kind of case cleaning contraption...

A few reasons.

1. For a new reloader buying everything on day 1 can be a bit much. Spreading out what I must have this month and then what I'd like to have next month makes it not such a financial hit, but can still be making ammo in month 1.
2. Not everyone sticks with it. Some people buy a bunch of stuff, get started, and realize it's not their cup of tea. Not jumping in with both feet means less stuff to sell [potentially at a loss] on used market.
3. There are dozens of different ways to do the same thing. A new reloader doesn't know what he doesn't know. I really like my Hornady dispensing scale. But at $225 I wouldn't recommend to a new guy when he can get by with a $40 used 505 until he figures out what he ultimately wants to use (and will then have the 505 to make sure the more expensive one later is always telling the truth). Not having cleaned a batch of cases before, he doesn't know what method he will prefer.

Multiple manuals are good, but there are some downsides to consider beyond cost. "If you have a watch you know what time it is. If you have 2, you're never sure". I read that here a long time ago (sorry forget who to credit for the quote). But it will make sense once you have several manuals and data sources - they will conflict. It is not uncommon to find a starting load in one reference at or above the max load in another. I think Lyman is a good starting one. Covers a fair range (not bullet manufacture specific) and in general trends toward the conservative. While I bought the Lee manual on day 1 along with hornady & lyman, I quickly put it on the shelf & forgot about it. It's more of a collection of everyone else's data and a catalog of what Lee sells. Since with one exception all my powder falls under the Hodgdon family, their online reloading data center is the reference I use most. But I still cross reference hornady & lyman as a sanity check. I guess the Lee would be good for that as a second source, but I wouldn't want it being the only book I had.

Anyway, we could list 1,000 different things that "you should get". For now, just starting out, not bad idea to figure out what must I have on day 1, settle on something [acceptable] that checks that block, then move on as you figure out what suits your tastes best as you get some rounds made.

We all reload for different reasons and have different styles. What works for me, someone else wouldn't touch. While I do load some precision ammo for benchrest/accuracy, 95% of what I do is higher volume general range accuracy. Price per round is an important driver along with what does it the fastest (without compromising safety or breaking the bank). Contrast that with the guy who loads 600 rds per year but they're all for his 800yd match rifle. I'm gonna tell you a possum hollow trimmer is a must have - yet if you gave that guy one he'd discard it as useless for his needs. He might say a Redding 2400 is a great trimmer - yet if you gave me one I'd consider it useless since it takes too long.

 

[kmw1954]

Evening everyone, I'm interested in reloading .357 mag and eventually 44 mag, I'm putting together a list of equipment I need to get started. I've landed on the Lee Turret system, from the advice of others I'm leaning towards the kit. Below is an itemized list of what I plan on buying to get started. Am I missing anything? Anything you'd change? Thanks!

View attachment 822752

Back to the beginning which I think many are jumping the gun.

The Lee kit does include a manual and a beam scale. So if at some point he would like to upgrade that scale is certainly doable or just use what is provided for now. It may not be the best or Top of the Line but it is functional and serviceable. We seem to be trying to push him past the initial purchase advise that he is looking for. Benches and a bunch of added manuals, websites.

The kit that he references along with the other tools in my opinion is a very good start and will enable him to get started and get his feet wet. I see nothing wrong with the tumbler he has selected.

Also if he need help with a work bench then I believe another thread dedicated to that topic would be appropriate. I do agree with the comment about the Caliper as they are indispensable and a good one will serve you well for a long time.

 

[thomas15]

A few reasons.

1. For a new reloader buying everything on day 1 can be a bit much. Spreading out what I must have this month and then what I'd like to have next month makes it not such a financial hit, but can still be making ammo in month 1. <---I did it and somehow survived. The OP put a tumbler into his shopping list so we can assume he see the need and is not afraid of the price.
2. Not everyone sticks with it. Some people buy a bunch of stuff, get started, and realize it's not their cup of tea. Not jumping in with both feet means less stuff to sell [potentially at a loss] on used market.<--- why do so many on this website think that this is such a miserable hobby that many will be looking to sell their tackle in a few months?
3. There are dozens of different ways to do the same thing. A new reloader doesn't know what he doesn't know. I really like my Hornady dispensing scale. But at $225 I wouldn't recommend to a new guy when he can get by with a $40 used 505 until he figures out what he ultimately wants to use (and will then have the 505 to make sure the more expensive one later is always telling the truth). Not having cleaned a batch of cases before, he doesn't know what method he will prefer.<--- I don't know why you brought this up. I made the suggestion that the OP get a good beam scale not settle for the plastic Lee. The OP states he is interested in handloading .357 on a LEE turret press so why talk about a auto dispenser? The M 500 scale which replaced the 5-0-5 will cost about $80.00

 

[rskent]

Spend your money on a scale. Yes a scale comes in the lee kit, but it’s the single worst product Lee has ever made.

Hardly, the lee scale is not fancy. But it is repeatable. As long as you work up your loads with the Lee you should be fine. Its when you try to compare your measurements with someone else’s that it falls short.

 

[RandyP]

Some of the powder companies have free Reloading Data web pages, like Hodgdon's:

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/node

Not that it matters to you, but for 10 years I've only used HP-38/Win 231 (the same powder sold in two different packages) for all my handgun calibers, so the Hodgdon's site was a no-brainer for me.

 

[George P]

I will disagree about cheap digital scales being the way to go - they suck, plain and simple. Better off with a good used balance beam like the RCBS 5-10 or even 505; no wandering from battery weakening, no interference from fluorescent lights, no need to let it warm up.

 

[someguy2800]

Looks like you have everything you need to get started covered. As others said a digital scale and a kinetic bullet pullers would be good future additions.

I personally prefer dry tumbling, its a lot less mess and hassle. But thats just personal preference. You'll also need a media seperator for whatever tumbler you get.

 

[someguy2800]

Oh and I have owned or read almost all the loading manuals out there and Lyman is the best in my opinion.

 

[Dudedog]

I would add a hammer type bullet puller.
(RCBS one is a bit more than some but has a better warranty)
Also, I would add a decent digital scale. (nice to have 2) I use my Frankford DS750 (about $25) for most of my pistol loading.
If you decide to go with wet tumbling (I like it) you will need a pin pickup magnet.

I washed brass in buckets for a year before getting a tumbler, so no you don't need ot to start but it is nice to have.
I have one of these, works well for dry meida, and getting the pins out also.
https://ads.midwayusa.com/product/9...MIkfCt1OyL4AIVlRh9Ch1HhQZ_EAQYAiABEgLglvD_BwE
(need 5 gallon plastic bucket)

 

[DWrso]

All good comments. I started last year with Hornady classic single stage kit last year. Best advise was from two reloaders at my club, Hornady book, and powder reference material along with several magazine reload segments. I load mid to low powder range 9mm and everything I have loaded has worked well. I use dry tumbler with cabelas media and polish additive. Got a new RCBS auto powder for Christmas. I am sure you will expand as you get more confidence in the process. It is a great hobby. One thing I like to do is a step at a time. I tumble several hundred then deprime/size, then tumble again. Keeps dies clean and brass looks great. I think I am more consistent if I do volume of each step. No hurry either.

 

[slowr1der]

Personally, I'd ditch the drum tumbler and stainless pins and go with a regular old vibro tumbler with some corncob media. The drum is a mess because you have to change out the dirty water, then you need a sifter to get all of the little pins out, then you need magnet to capture all the pins and sort them from the dirty water, then you still have to dry your brass or they will tarnish from being wet. If you're doing a batch of 500 cases or more, then the wet tumbler might be worth it, but anything less than 500 and it's too much work. Vibro tumbler and corncob media is much faster, fewer steps, and a lot less hassle.

Horrible advice imo. After trying wet tumbling, I'll never go back to a dry tumbler. You do have to wait for the brass to dry or dry it in the oven or dehydrator. However, it cleans much better, much faster and cleans the inside of the cases which dry tumbling doesn't. Best of all, you don't have to deal with all of that dust getting everywhere like you do with a dry tumbler. I remember blowing my nose to get that dust out of my nose after emptying that thing. I sure don't miss that.