New versus old?

[epijunkie67]

I posted the question earlier asking if $360 was a good price for a new marlin 1894c. That got me to thinking about the new versus old argument. Having never owned a lever gun before I wouldn't know what to look for when inspecting a used weapon. I have checked around locally and one place had 3 or 4 levers in the same caliber I'm looking for in a range of prices.

So the question becomes, as always, to plunk down the cash for a new piece or get a used one for less. How much money could I save getting something like this used? Is it worth the potential hassle that can come from a used weapon?

Guidance appreciated.

Don

 

[Kaylee]

Personally, I prefer old to new in Marlins just to avoid the lawyer safety.. not certain if you can get an 1894 from before all that mess though.

The one thing to definately look for is to check the headspacing on the bolt. Cycle the action, then with the hammer back press on the rear of the bolt. You don't want it able to move forward. That may mean your headspace is loose, which will at best mean your accuracy is gonna stink. (Had to have my second hand 336 fixed for just that problem once upon a time).

-K

 

[mainmech48]

Personally, the major reason that I'd opt for the new Marlin (lawyer safety and all) is to get the conventional "Ballard" rifing instead of "Micro-Groove".

Most of my shooting with revolver-caliber carbines is with cast bullet handloads. IME, the older system just wouldn't give you groups with those anywhere near as tight as the ones you got with jacketed stuff without a LOT of experimentation.

My IMI Timberwolf and Rossi '92 clones were so much more consistent with my standard plinking loads that I ended up trading off my pre-safety 94CS for a nice Blackhawk convertible in .45LC/ACP.

My 1895G handles both lead and jacketed loads with equal aplomb right out of the box. I have to attribute most of that to the rifling design. I may be wrong, but I'm not uncertain.

Mirco-Groove works like a charm in my Marlin .22s. It works in my old 336 in .35 Rem. where I use jacketed stuff exclusively anymore. It just didn't seem to do as well as more conventional designs did in the kind of shooting I wanted to do with .357s. "Why" exactly I don't know.

If you want to do a lot of plinking and practice with inexpensive handloads my opinion is that you'd be happier with the newer model. You can always drop-in one of those crossbolt safety eliminators to get rid of that excresence if you like.

Just my $0.02, FWIW.

 

[R.H. Lee]

I have a Marlin 336W with "Micro-Groove" rifling. What would happen if I used cast lead bullets?

 

[BryanP]

$360 is less than I paid for my new 1894C a couple of years ago. Personally I don't have a problem with the crossbolt safety, but then I don't have a problem with integral locks as a concept either. I guess I'm just a heathen.

But seriously, other than .30-30's most of the used leverguns I see aren't much less expensive than new, so I'd probably go new.

 

[Litefoot]

I agree with BryanP. I think the crossbolt safety just bucks tradition in the eyes of those who are accustomed to not having them. But for a new lever gun owner who knows its part of the manual of arms, then it shouldn't be a problem. New versus old? Used Marlins usually aren't much cheaper than new, but you can find good deals on Winchester. Well, at least around here anyway. BTW, $360 is not a bad price on that Marlin. And you'd have an American designed gun, built in America by an American-owned company shooting cartridges developed by Americans.

 

[David4516]

I'm not too sure about Marlins, but I think the older Winchesters are a bit nicer than the new ones...