Newbie getting discouraged learning to shoot .38 special snubnose

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As many ( including yourself) have stated, the snubbie is a challenge for both the novice and accomplished pistolero.

Learning to wield a weapon which is so openly hostile to pinpoint bullseye shooting is its own particular type of "fun", but can be frustrating as well.

Learning to shoot any double-action revolver is a unique challenge for each piece; from 8" hunting down to a 2" concealed backup weapon ( such as yours).

With a sight radius that short, even the most imperceptible movement can effect your point of impact significantly.

But, you have a further complication in not knowing whether it is you the firer, or the pistols fault.

To determine which is the more likely culprit, and before spending a considerable sum on a new pistol, I would try this :

Find a decent bench bag that can be used to stabilize the pistol during seated firing.

Something like this :

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/886734/caldwell-deadshot-front-shooting-rest-bag-nylon-filled

Obtain 120 rounds (20 cylinders) of premium jacketed ammunition, in .38, I would suggest these :

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/28...special-147-grain-full-metal-jacket-box-of-20

Or something with a similar record of accuracy. Cor-bon supplies many law-enforcement agencies, and has a proven record of accuracy and reliability.

Obtain a stack of targets, say 20 that are about plate sized.

Fire ten cylinders seated and fully supported by the bag. One cylinder at each target, half at 5 yards, the other half at ten yards.

Fire the next ten cylinders standing and unsupported, again half at 5 yards and the other half at ten yards.

If this is too many rounds for you to fire comfortably in one day, divide the test into two sessions...but make sure and do half seated and supported, and half standing.

Compare your results.

If your seated and supported groups cannot maintain a 2-3" grouping....perhaps your pistol truly is faulty. I strongly suspect you will be able to achieve this grouping after the first seated target set. If you and your pistol can achieve anything near this in the seated and supported department- then its all a matter of shooting technique. If you can obtain this grouping while seated and supported, but not standing and unsupported- it is very unlikely that a significant expenditure by way of a new pistol is going to be your "magic bullet" so to speak.

Is it possible to obtain better than a 2-3" group from a revolver ? Certainly. Both a better firearm or better technique could help in this department. I however, would be perfectly accepting of such a grouping given that your weapon is low cost, fires low cost ammunition, and is intended primarily as a backup to a more significant weapons platform of the firers' choosing.

In any event, this simple test may save you a great amount of money and frustration regardless of the outcome. If your pistol is truly bad, replace it- and move on. If your pistol is fine, but you need some improvement in technique- thats fine too. At least you will no longer harbor doubt as to what the problem really is- and you may be surprised at how much "knowing" that it is indeed you ( if this is the case) helps in your pursuits.

It may not be easy on the Ego at first, but you can have confidence knowing that practice will improve your ability every day. You will soon have the satisfaction of that day- not far from now- where that center circle is just a chewed up ragged hole....and that it was your skill and perseverance that got you to that point.

Best of luck !
 
You need a fair coach and or tremendous trigger time on your revolver to be able to shoot it well double action. Most "competitors" only shoot DA revolvers DA, even in bullseye competition. You can do it.
 
Don't feel too bad. Mastering the snub nose wheelgun is one of the most difficult feats in firearms. It took me years of practice before I got half-way decent, and even now if I get a stance wrong or have a bad day my groups open up fast.

For starters, I'd suggest keeping the target at 10 yards max and focus on form and basics. Work in single action mode to start if that helps. Find the stance that works best for you. Remember to focus on the front sight, etc.
 
I've owned several snubbies over the years. Got away from them but decided a couple months ago to start carrying a S&W 642 again. Every trip to the range I shoot at least 50 rounds of my farily stout reloads. I can't claim to be proficient with the little gun, but I can put most rounds within 4-5 inches of my intended point of aim from 10 yards. For me, the key to success, besides trigger control, is intense concentration on the front sight all the way through the trigger pull.
 
You need to make up you mind on what you goal really is, and then move to that with realistic expectations. AT first you said "with the goal of becoming reasonably proficient at target shooting" But later at the end you said "My goals are the same as 30 years ago, home defense and fun." A snubbie is a defensive oriented gun...NOT a target pistol. If you want to be a target shooter, buy a target pistol. If your really is defense, then realize what that means. There is a term called "combat accuracy" That means, good enough to get the job done. Defense in many places is limited to 21-30 feet, that means 7-10 yards. And at that range, 3" groups are probably good enogh. When that is your goal, the snubbie is fine. In reality, the snubbie is not even ideal for home defense, really just carry. If you are at home and you don't have to conceal it, use a bigger gun, like a 4" barreled revolver. Not only is it easier to handle and shoot because of its size and weight, it is generally more accureate due to its greater sight radius, and has better terminal results from higher muzzle velocity. You need to decide what you want a gun for, and buy a gun for that. Anything else is going to an even greater comprimise that leaves you feeling shorted most of the time.
 
Right Then!

Since the Charter is 30 years old, why not trade it in on a snubby (if you really want a snubby) that WILL give you target grade accuracy? Chances are you will get most of your cash back (these things tend to appreicate in value). The charter is an OK gun, but you can do way better. I, like the other fellows recommend a 4" barrel 357 as the best overall compromise. But, If your after s snub, plese consider......

S&W 15-3 (Pics w/ original wood grips and Goodyears) :)

larger gun (means more weight, less kick)
better grip frame (every grip on the planet is made for a K frame S&W)
buttery smooth single & double action (get shots off when you want them off)
Smooth barrel (won't lead up)
Adjustable sights (move bullet impact to where you need it)

SW15-3-62.jpg

SW15-3-3.jpg

SW15-3-4.jpg

SW15-3-22.jpg
 
Charter Arms has never made a gun that lasted with me. The trigger pull is heavy, the frame is weak and I don't think it's made for much range shooting. Buy a good .357 like the 4-inch S&W 686 and avoid the Ruger GP-100 unless you like its front-heavy balance (which is worse on the Ruger because of the chopped grip). The Ruger Security-Six was optimum for carrying, but for range use you can go for the heavier guns.

You might also enjoy the Ruger .22LR autos and/or the Single-Six. Both are fun guns and you can't go wrong with them.

Rugers_MkII_SS_3-1.gif

One of the funnest pistols I ever shot was a cheap, junky .22LR RG 66 aluminum cowboy gun. It was the second gun I ever bought. Being at college I just didn't have the money to afford ammo for my newly acquired .357. I'd buy a couple of boxes a week and go driving up the canyons of Utah. It wasn't long before I traded it in for a Ruger auto and I had a lot of fun with that RG. I got to where I couldn't help it anymore, so I bought a Ruger Single-Six .22LR/.22WMR just a few years ago. For some reason it wasn't quite as fun because it was so nice. There was something about having a cheap gun one could lose. (Heck, it was about $50!)

RugerSingle-Six_15.jpg

But...every Ruger .22 I've ever owned has been just astounding! And the autos are very nice self defense pistols, too. And shooting 11-12 rounds in a little more than four seconds is...well...formidable.

RugerAutos.gif

Good luck.

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Jerry Miculek said to be proficient at something you need to do it a few thousand times at least. You've only shot that thing 250 times. There's no substitute for hard work. You only get what you put into it.

Seconded.

My father was the best snubby shooter I've ever known. He carried a Det.Special or J-Frame for most of his LE career, and had fired thousands of rounds through snub-nosed revolvers. He was also a believer in exercising his hands nearly every day, to build grip and finger strength.

I know it sounds trite, but there is no substitute for good training and practice, practice, practice.
 
My experience with the J-frame size of gun has been as follows:

First five-shot group: About hand-sized at 7 yards.

Second five-shot group: About basketball-sized at 7 yards.

Third five-shot group: Somewhere on the target at 7 yards.

Fourth five-shot group: One hole on the target and four live rounds put back in the box...
 
You just need to get a target gun and keep the snub, with all the crazies out there and now canibals. You might want to carry in the near future. A laser will make the snub much more accurate if you want to spend more money on it. I have the charter 44 spl bulldog 2.5'' barrel without laser I shoot about a 6" avg group at 10yds, with laser about 2" group.
 
When shooting snubs, remember that much of the time it's instinct. Concentrate mostly on the front sight and see the gun as an extension of your own hand. Point at center mass and fire multiple shots, again relying on that front sight for direction.

A S&W or Ruger will give you better results. The Charter Arms I've owned included the .38 Specials and the .44 Special Bulldog. Both of these guns seized up after awhile and I don't think they were made for extensive shooting.
 
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