Newbie/glock 22 FTF etc..on light clays loads

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blindglock

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my glock 22 4th gen today had FTF, stovepipes, etc.. today on 3.0 grains of clays with 180 gr xtp hornady's bullets, also i was using the factory 22 rd magazine, wondering if/what the problem could be, had it happen like maybe 5 times out of 80 rd's, then in last magazine like 4 or 5 times, finaly i changed mags to a factory 15 rd one and still happened a couple times, wodnering what could be the issue/issues...also, reloads aren't crimped...my dad acts/thinks that they don't really need it but from reading some stuff online i'm thinking maybe to crimp them...or just a little..? any help greatly appreciated, thanks
oh, also, 5 rounds of federal guard dogs went bang without a hitch :D
 
load one and fire. Repeat 10 times. The slide should lock back every time. If it doesn't, your load is wrong.

Assuming you're shooting 40 caliber and XTP bullets, you are at the starting load for that weight/powder combination. It also looks like a pretty crappy powder for that round based on the velocity.

I try to remove any bell I created when I was loading rounds. Since all my brass isn't within 0.0005, it all ends up with some amount of crimp but never enough to eliminate the case mouth headspacing in the chamber.
 
I agree with david_r. Try loading, and shooting 1 round at a time. The slide should lock back. Also measure your case mouth's OD. It should measure .421". Check your OAL to make sure your not too long. I seat mine to 1.129" for my G22 loads. Becareful with clays in .40. It's a great powder for gamers with hotrod guns, but crappy for a factory gun. I have a lot of friends I shoot IDPA, and USPSA with that load Clays, but they also have reduced recoil springs. I also use a 15lb reduced recoil spring in my Glock 22 for my loads of 3.8gr of WST, but it's not a requirement to function. My G22 will function 100% with the factory spring, but the 15lb spring speeds up my slide speed for quicker double, and triple taps.

Check your case mouth OD, check your OAL, make sure they pass the "plunk" test in your chamber/barrel. Also find yourself a better powder. Powders like WST, W231/HP38 work great for .40s&w. Start low per your manual, and work up your loads. I really like 3.9gr of WST for factory Glocks.
 
thanks for the info, as knowledgable as my dad is i think there is a lot to reloading and the technical aspect of it that he might not check or double check etc.when he reloaded a lot before it was for revolvers..also..he made the comment about when one or two jammed about it being an "auto" loading gun and what would i do blalalba etc. in this situation or that..and i was like, well i think it's got to do with the load etc...also was wondering do most of you guys sort your brass by brand? he thinks it's silly or a wast of time i guess but hey, i think, consistency consistency consistency
 
Quite simply, your load is too light to cycle the action.

Hodgdon load data says 3.0 Clays with a 180 Hornady XTP is the Starting load, giving only 727 FPS at 26,000 PSI.

Max is 3.5 grains giving 857 FPS at 34,300 PSI.

With a fast powder like Clays, you will need to load near max to get the gun to work.

But you would be well advised to pick a medium burn rate power for use with 180 grain bullets in .40 S&W.

Clays, with only 0.5 grain difference between Start and Max gives you almost no wiggle room between not enough, and too much.

rc
 
yeah i'd noticed there was only .5 diffference and thought the same myself at one time when i'd seen the load data in a manual, my dad reloaded them, oh well live and learn, they are really light recoiling loads with a very soft report...funny thing was i was surprising myself with the first 20 shots with accuracy...shocked actually..i was shooting from a rest but i'm mainly trying to see/figure where my guns shooting...sight alignment etc..i'd rather do a lot of the reloading myself, my dad messaged me the other day saying he'd loaded 100 rds and i got mad because i'm wanting to see/do/experience the process myself..i let him know :p :cuss:
 
I use to sort by head stamp, but I don't much anymore. If I do it's usually sorted as Winchester, Federal, RP, and every thing else. I usually try to keep my Rem (RP) brass sorted from the rest for sure. They have thin case walls, and seem to not have good case tension as others. I do load RP brass, but usually with plated, or FMJ only, and 3-4 loads before trashing them. Shooting IDPA I end up with lots of different head stamps.
 
Personally, I would switch to a slower burning powder, especially with a heavy jacketed bullet. I use either Longshot or HS6 and have never, ever had a FTF or any other malfunction. Because fast burning powders have a shorter pressure curve, they don't sustain pressures long enough to cycle the action unless you run the loads at near max charges. So either switch powders, or up your charge.

GS
 
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