newbie reloader questions

[Chewy4480]

Hey everyone as of today I started reloading for my AR .223/5.56. This is my first time reloading. I'm using a Lee load master. The first question I have is about the auto disc measurer that comes with the kit. I loaded up some 55r fmj hornadys using 25grs of varget, (realize now that varget meters a little hard.) I measured my powder drops and they ranged from 24.9 to 25.2. Should I worry about that? Is it the powder or the measurer? Is there a way to fix it?

The other question is every once and awhile my primers would miss every other case. Out of 100 rds it missed 11. Is there something i can do to fix that?

 

[joem1945]

I'm not familiar with Lee load master. My primary press is a Dillon 650. I do prime all my cases before using the case feeder and primer setup. Saves mess ups.

 

[rcmodel]

I hand prime everything I load with an RCBS hand primer tool.

The 'feel' is superior to any press priming system.

And I can dump a box of primers in it and prime 100 cases while filling the primer tubes for a press system.

Plus, I don't have to worry about a primer tube explosion blowing my butt off!

rc

 

[matrem]

Hand seat primers always.

Also, 335 or 748 or any ball powder will meter better than Varget will.

 

[LiveLife]

as of today I started reloading for my AR .223/5.56. This is my first time reloading.

Welcome to THR.

+1 to H335 for .223 loads as it is small flattened ball powder that meters very well with the Auto Disk powder measure.

Since you are reloading for semi-auto rifle, you really should consider hand priming the cases to prevent high primers which could contribute to slam fire. Hand priming also allows you to inspect the primer pockets and clean as necessary. Depriming and priming on progressive press doesn't allow you to do that unless you deprime and prime in separate steps. I press prime pistol cases but hand prime rifle cases and seat primers slightly below flush as felt by finger tip (ideally, I aim for .004" below flush).

Since you need to check the case length for trimming after resizing anyways, you can hand prime cases after trimming and using resized/trimmed/primed cases makes it easier to just add powder and seat the bullet.

Also,

- You should be checking the inside of case base for incipient head separation and cull the cases that have thinned case walls - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=761860

- You do know you should be trimming the case to length after resizing the case? If you are not, you should be depriming/resizing separately and trimming to length then chamfering the case neck.

 

[Walkalong]

While I too hand prime, most people prime on the press if they have a progressive. My son recently bought a Loadmaster and primed 500 .223 cases on it. He did it without loading, but said it went well. I am not familiar with the Load master and can't really help there, but there are folks here who do, and hopefully thy will come along and help.

As posted, H335, BLC-2, 748, AA 2230, Tac, etc will all meter much better.

Welcome to THR.

 

[G11354]

Regarding your powder charge issue, it's likely the powder your using. Stick powders tend to have variations in charge weight from an automatic powder measure.

As for the variations your experiencing, as long as your test loads showed no pressure signs at 25gr I wouldnt worry. But make sure you make test loads with the powder hand measured before you start loading in quantity to see how your rifle handles that powder charge. You could also switch to a ball type powder which tends to measure more consistently.

Your primer issue may be a press related problem. Lee Loadmasters are well known for being troublesome when first set up. Make sure you have the latest priming system. They have information on their website for identifying the correct priming system.

Also check out this site for smoothing your Loadmasters performance!
http://mikesreloadingbench.com/

 

[Chewy4480]

Thanks everyone for the advise. I deprimed all my brass first and cleaned the primer pockets and trimmed the cases. I am going to get a hand primer.

Should I get a different powder measurer?

 

[G11354]

Your powder measure should be fine, Lee's automatic powder measure once set up and dialed in will serve you well. All powder measures, both automatic and manual will have issues with stick powders. Good Luck and enjoy!

 

[Walkalong]

A .3 spread isn't all that bad for a stick powder. As posted, if the max it throws is safe, and the accuracy is suitable for the job (Hey, it's only FMJs), then it will be fine.

There are so many ball powders that work great in .223 that would be my first move before chasing a new measure. Or just live with a .3 spread, which many do.

 

[gunnels]

Since you are using a Lee Loadmaster progressive you should look at this website. http://loadmastervideos.com/. there is a link on this website to their forums. Mike from Mike's Reloading Bench is very active on that forum. As a user of a Loadmaster press I have found that forum and the videos to be very valuable. I have also used several of the solutions offered on Mike's Reloading Bench and have not been disappointed.

The amount of variance you are seeing is not uncommon with powders that do not dispense well and probably is not a problem. If you were reloading smaller handgun cartridges it would be a much bigger problem.

 

[Chewy4480]

Thanks guys. Any advice on what hand primer i should get?

 

[Artofgolf]

There is a closeout sale on RCBS stuff presently at www.bullets.com

I recently bought the hand primer linked below ~ works great for my needs

http://www.bullets.com/products/APS-Hand-Priming-Tool/BL3214

Well-made and with a good company guarantee if any problems.
RCBS has a rebate offer that will sweeten the deal ~ spend $50 on RCBS equipment - rebate of $10.

 

[greyling22]

don't get the cheap lee one that you use with your thumb. It killed my thumb with 223's. some of those primer pockets are tight (even after removing pocket crimp). Get something you squeeze with your whole hand.

I seem to recall reading in lee's book where he talks about powder variation not really affecting accuracy all that much as long as it was under something like 5%? somebody feel free to correct my numbers if I have that wrong.

 

[scythefwd]

I prime on press most of the time. (dillon 550), but when I'm working on my single stage (lee classic cast), I do use a hand primer.

I'll break with Greyling on the issue and say the lee is fine. I dont just sit there and prime before I load though.. I'll do 100-200 while watching tv at night and have em ready for the next time I reload.

YES some of those primer pockets are tight, and you will wear your hand out.. which is why I do such small batches. I might reload once a quarter (I'm also lucky to get to the range 2x a year.. its sad really) so I can have thousands of primed cases waiting to go when I do step up to the presses.

I'll +1 to the stick powders being a little inconsistent in powder measures. It bridges, you cut it, etc. When I was worried about absolute accuracy, I'd hand trickle my stick powders. If you're looking for a ball powder for 223, I'm sure there are dozens out there to chose from.. one being bl-c(2). Its not the cleanest, not the slowest (meaning faster muzzle velocity), not the go to for any bench shooter I know of.. but it can be loaded into almost anything (I want to get some for the garand.. one of the few ball powders suitable for it in this case).

Sorry about the rambling, mispellings, etc. Just my thoughts on the topic.

 

[gamestalker]

I don't use powder measures, so can't offer any advice on that.

But as far as priming, I've been using an RCBS priming die for nearly 30 yrs., and I wouldn't do it any other way. I don't know much, if anything about progressive presses, so I wouldn't know if the priming die would function in one. But what I like about the die, is I can preset the priming depth, this seats every primer to the same depth, which completely eliminates priming by feel. Almost guaranteed to eliminate shallow seated primers once the depth has been set.

GS

 

[Dudedog]

I have used BLC(2), IMR 8208, and TAC for 223. All meter well in my Lee Prodisk. The double disk kit is necessary for some charges.


While I would not be happy with the .3 gr swing, if you load for it (assuming you are going to get a heaver charge) it should work ok. (not ideal, but ok)
I have found that if I just throw charges from my Prodisk they are lighter than if I am actually loading with all the steps. (the other steps cause the charge to be heavier)

Some .223/5.56 case have crimped in primers. The crimp must be removed before they can be reprimed. If you haven't removed the crimps that might be 1 thing that could cause the issue.

 

[Chewy4480]

I really appreciate all the advice. Dudedog I did remove the crimp on the primer pockets. After going on mikesreloadingbench.com I went out and checked my primer feeder and sure enough it was loose, so when I get a chance I'll tighten it up and try again. I'll keep everyone up to date on how I make out. Also want to get some blc (2) and some h335 and see if they help my charge swing. Thanks everyone.

 

[Dudedog]

Oopppss crimps already removed

 

[gahunter12]

I use a Dillon XL650 also. I prime on the press with no issue. As for powder, Varget doesn't meter as well as others. My favorite powder for .223 55gr bullets is H335. It meters very well, and a great powder for .223

 

[Dudedog]

Ooppsss forgot to list H335.
I use it and like it, meters well.

 

[Chewy4480]

I was out messing with my press last night and noticed that the pin that press the primers in was hitting the shell plate. So tonight I'm going out and see if can adjust the shell plate.

 

[Chewy4480]

Oh yeah I also ordered a lee auto prime xr. I know greyling22 said not to but it was in my price range.

 

[therealwormey]

theres a lot of different reasons it primes sporatic, too many to go into without more info.i have started priming on my pro 1000 and loading on the loadmaster. that way if theres a priming issue it dont screw up powder drops and so on. since you only have the one press you could size and prime and pull your case before it goes up for the charge. then after youve made sure all the cases have a primer just remove the decap/sizer die and the primer feeder assembly and load as normal. i did that for a while after shoulder surgery because doing all the stages in one pull was agrivating my shoulder, much easier without the resizer in the process.the loadmaster is very quick and easy to switch shellplates and remove the primer assembly,anyhow, just an idea. i too like to hand prime but my hands hurt more than they used too. must be from shooting all the magnum stuff throug the years.
those newer lee hand primers suck. id find the old round tray style on ebay.

 

[Chewy4480]

Last night I adjusted the shell plate so the primer pin wouldn't hit it. After that I took apart the primer feeder and found that the spring under it was out of place and got bent by the priming arm. I just flipped it over so the bent part was down in the retaining hole. I wiped the primer feed ramp and put it back together. I primed 100 cases without any problem. In the future I'm going to prime separately as therealwormey suggested.