I'm, also, a big believer in FrogLube. I don't know why more people don't read and follow the directions, though? It's NOT an oil, and shouldn't be used like an oil. ALL excess residue should be carefully wiped off the gun; and excess FrogLube should be kept out of the action.
IF THE METAL SURFACE IS SMOOTH 'N SHINY THEN YOUR JOB IS DONE!
Three things I've noticed: (1) The paste works better than the liquid. (2) It takes, at least, two separate applications to get a really slick surface; and three or four coatings over a week or two's time is even better. (3) I keep the gun upside down in order to prevent excess heated lube from dripping into the action. (Where it can build up, congeal, and thus make the sear/firing pin tacky.)
When you learn how to apply FrogLube correctly it's really good stuff. It has become my preferred long term protectant for, 'safe queens'; and, in all the years that I've been cleaning guns, I've never found a better moisture inhibitor that's suitable for daily use over an extended period of time, and with only an occasional wipe down or touch-up.
It's MUCH BETTER than any CLP, or gun oil I've ever used. In fact, as a surface protectant, I like FrogLube even better than Carnauba wax! FrogLube is not the very best rust inhibitor on the market; but it's, definitely, one of the top three; and (happily) it's the only rust inhibitor that's completely non-carcinogenic. In fact I apply it with my bare hands!
NOTE: The best solvent to use for surface preparation prior to applying that first coat of FrogLube is common ordinary 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. I get mine at the local WalMart Pharmacy.
