oal .308/7.62

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junke

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i have 2 springfield M1A's, both NM, one 18"bush one 22" . i have shot all kinds of 7.62 mil surp through both, as well as factory .308 win. with outstanding groups and no malfuncs. but i am now in the process of trying to hand load a single pet load that works in both with best results. working through a can of H4895 right now with win brass and 150 Gr. ballistic tips. i have a BUNCH of reloads. 10-with 43grns, 10-with 43.5, 44, 44.5, 45 ect. to do 5 rnd groups with each rifle and each load just looking for a free day and good weather.

what OverAllLength do any of you reload for in your M1A's with best/better results? i have a kind of preference for ballistic tips, killed many a kritter with them in various calibers from 15 yds to 250 yds.
also what do you use to clean/size mil surp primer pockets, as it seems that the mil. surp varies in size, i think due to "staking primers" and deforming the edges. thanks in advance :)

DID SOME READING AND FOUND MY ANSWERS :eek: SORRY TO WASTE TIME
 
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What??? Did you waste some time?? Shame on you and I have only 38 years left. Next time you feel like wasting some time just send it my way....O K? :p
 
While all guns are different, my M1A Loaded Standard likes shorter OALs - 2.79". Which, by the way, is what most mil-surplus ammo is built to. I've found that extending the OAL past 2.80" causes my groups to start stringing horizontally.

For the record, my best load with 4895 when using 150gr FMJs is 44.0gr, using heavier Mil-spec brass, and either Win LR primers or CCI #34 primers. If you use commercial weight brass, You'll have to up that charge about 12% or 1.2gr for each 10gr difference in case weight.

You're wise to make sure that you clean out those primer pockets well for M1A use. To prevent the possibility of slam fires, you need to make sure that the primers are set slightly below the level of the case head and also make sure you have enough headspace clearance by setting the case shoulders back a bit when you full-length size them.

If you have mil-surp cases that have not had the primer crimps removed, you either need a Swagging tool (RCBS & Dillon make them) to press out the crimp or a little grinding tool to grind them flush to the head.
I use this tool to clean & uniform my primer pockets and it can be chucked into a 1/2" drill and used to grind out the crimp stakes as well:
EJZ Tool
 
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