I'm hoping Chris and others knowledgeable about scopes can answer me this, as it's a very frustrating situation (BTW Chris, I did get the Weaver
Classic rimfire from SWFA and was very pleased with the service and extremely fast delivery - think it was by UPS - the brown truck of happiness
)
Anyhoo, this question is specifically about a different scope, a Swift Premier 4-12x40 AO, but could apply to most any scope. Here's the situation:
First, set the background. From the Swift Premeir's owner's manual:
"Standard one inch tube riflescopes have a limited adjustment range that must not be exceeded - or sighting errors will occur.
"Bottoming out the adjustment screw will damage the internal mechanism. On variable power models, it will freeze the power selection ring. (Bottoming out of the adjustment screw is when the adjustment screw tightens up and cannot be turned further).
"Please note that bottoming out of the adjusment screw is when it goes over the limits. - It can damage the internal mechanism - and on variable power models, it will freeze the power selection ring. OBVIOUSLY, ANYONE OVER-COMPENSATING TO THE EXTENT TAT THE POWER SELECTION RING IS FROZEN, HAS ABUSED THE INSTRUMENT - AND VOIDED THE GUARANTEE" [emphasis mine]
Now, if you read that precisely, and I have to assume they meant what they said, precisely - it says that once you reach the point that the adjustment screw will no longer turn, you have already "over-compensated" and potentially caused damage. Most importantly, it does *NOT* say something like only if "you attempt to force it PAST the point at which it naturally has stopped turning by use of carefully feeling when it no longer freely clicks, then the warranty is voided."
So, since I have ALREADY turned it "up" about some 150-200 clicks (in that one direction only), and since it's point of impact is STILL way low for the zero I want, and since I obviously do not want to void the warranty, and since there's an obvious catch-22 here, in that you won't KNOW that you bottomed it out until you've IN FACT BOTTOMED IT OUT, and thus it's too late to NOT bottom it out, and you've already voided the warranty - well, this gives rise to several questions:
1. Despite what the manual actually says, do you think that they MEANT to say that you should not "attempt to turn it past" where it bottoms out, rather than what they actually said of "don't bottom it out", which of course you won't know till you get there?
2. If the answer to number 1 is "no", then since I've already turned it some 150-200 clicks in one direction from the point as it came from the dealer (presumably a midpoint), and I'm still hitting several inches low from what I want for the desired zero, and now am afraid to turn it any further, do YOU think (as I do) that I'm probably getting very close to the end? How many 1/4 minute clicks from "center" are available in a typical 4-12x40 scope?
3. If the answer to numer 1 is "no", and the answer to number 2 is "I wouldn't turn it any more if I were you", then my next question is, If I put a shim under the rear of the scope base, wouldn't this create an unsightly gap between the rifle's receiver and the scope base? This is a beautiful rifle and I don't want to mess it up. What about different sized rings. I'm using medium, but I can't imagine that a medium front and high rear would work to solve my problem - that would probably just take it too far the other direction.
4. Aside from the bottoming out issue ruining the warranty, what about the admonishment of "sighting errors will occur" when the "adjustment range [is] exceeded"?? How would I know how many clicks is *too far*?
I've looked for Swift on the internet, and cannot find how to contact them to ask them. I'd like to return it because of the ridiculous catch 22 I've described from their manual, but cannot return it as it's been mounted. This is really for the birds - they should be able to tell you exactly how many clicks before sighting errors occur, and should also make a scope that has resistance BEFORE you ever reach a dangerous point. Otherwise it's a very fine scope, but for this reason it's crap, IMO. Please help!!! :banghead:
Classic rimfire from SWFA and was very pleased with the service and extremely fast delivery - think it was by UPS - the brown truck of happiness
)Anyhoo, this question is specifically about a different scope, a Swift Premier 4-12x40 AO, but could apply to most any scope. Here's the situation:
First, set the background. From the Swift Premeir's owner's manual:
"Standard one inch tube riflescopes have a limited adjustment range that must not be exceeded - or sighting errors will occur.
"Bottoming out the adjustment screw will damage the internal mechanism. On variable power models, it will freeze the power selection ring. (Bottoming out of the adjustment screw is when the adjustment screw tightens up and cannot be turned further).
"Please note that bottoming out of the adjusment screw is when it goes over the limits. - It can damage the internal mechanism - and on variable power models, it will freeze the power selection ring. OBVIOUSLY, ANYONE OVER-COMPENSATING TO THE EXTENT TAT THE POWER SELECTION RING IS FROZEN, HAS ABUSED THE INSTRUMENT - AND VOIDED THE GUARANTEE" [emphasis mine]
Now, if you read that precisely, and I have to assume they meant what they said, precisely - it says that once you reach the point that the adjustment screw will no longer turn, you have already "over-compensated" and potentially caused damage. Most importantly, it does *NOT* say something like only if "you attempt to force it PAST the point at which it naturally has stopped turning by use of carefully feeling when it no longer freely clicks, then the warranty is voided."
So, since I have ALREADY turned it "up" about some 150-200 clicks (in that one direction only), and since it's point of impact is STILL way low for the zero I want, and since I obviously do not want to void the warranty, and since there's an obvious catch-22 here, in that you won't KNOW that you bottomed it out until you've IN FACT BOTTOMED IT OUT, and thus it's too late to NOT bottom it out, and you've already voided the warranty - well, this gives rise to several questions:
1. Despite what the manual actually says, do you think that they MEANT to say that you should not "attempt to turn it past" where it bottoms out, rather than what they actually said of "don't bottom it out", which of course you won't know till you get there?
2. If the answer to number 1 is "no", then since I've already turned it some 150-200 clicks in one direction from the point as it came from the dealer (presumably a midpoint), and I'm still hitting several inches low from what I want for the desired zero, and now am afraid to turn it any further, do YOU think (as I do) that I'm probably getting very close to the end? How many 1/4 minute clicks from "center" are available in a typical 4-12x40 scope?
3. If the answer to numer 1 is "no", and the answer to number 2 is "I wouldn't turn it any more if I were you", then my next question is, If I put a shim under the rear of the scope base, wouldn't this create an unsightly gap between the rifle's receiver and the scope base? This is a beautiful rifle and I don't want to mess it up. What about different sized rings. I'm using medium, but I can't imagine that a medium front and high rear would work to solve my problem - that would probably just take it too far the other direction.
4. Aside from the bottoming out issue ruining the warranty, what about the admonishment of "sighting errors will occur" when the "adjustment range [is] exceeded"?? How would I know how many clicks is *too far*?
I've looked for Swift on the internet, and cannot find how to contact them to ask them. I'd like to return it because of the ridiculous catch 22 I've described from their manual, but cannot return it as it's been mounted. This is really for the birds - they should be able to tell you exactly how many clicks before sighting errors occur, and should also make a scope that has resistance BEFORE you ever reach a dangerous point. Otherwise it's a very fine scope, but for this reason it's crap, IMO. Please help!!! :banghead:
