Following is an update re
Thanks for all the detail. I wonder who is going to be brave enough to try using Citronox. The tumble time of 5-10 minutes are very short, so whoever is going to try it, don't forget to set your timer.
Remember tumble time is dependent upon degree of soiled cases . IF someone is bent on making sparkle bling cases then tumbling , ISN'T IMO the way to achieve that . Opinions vary some people will continue doing the same procedures they've always done ,regardless of others results . If for no other reason ,it's the way their setup and see No reason to change . I'm certainly Not going to say their wrong or I'm right , I use QUICK methods which work for MY purposes ,nothing more nothing less . I have plastic shapes with Walnut and Corn Cob in MY Big Dillon vibratory and it makes Pretty Bling . Unfortunately they DON'T shoot any better but putting a couple on my shooting pad ,might just distract the fellow next to me and cause him or her to MISS that X
thus improving MY score
When polishing ,there's cutting and Buffing involved : Cut Buffing and Color Buffing before " Fixing " the finish from tarnishing . I borrowed the below exerts ,with their link .
Importance of the Right Tumbling Media
To the outsider, all tumbling media might look the same; however, the type of material in question and type of finishing required play a part in choosing the best media for the job.
For example, plastic or synthetic is often the best choice for deburring soft metals like aluminum and brass. When the job calls for general metal removal, descaling, or fast and heavy cutting, ceramic may be the media of choice. Porcelain media, when combined with burnishing compounds in tumble polishing, has the unique ability of providing the final finish to many metal products. For those products requiring the ultimate luster and sheen, processing the parts in our custom blend of corn cob and additives is the proven solution.
The purpose of polishing is to smooth out a surface and remove any visual imperfections. Buffing goes even further towards a perfect surface by using less
abrasive products that will smooth out the surface to remove any scratches or uneven patches that you won’t be able to see with the naked eye.
Buffing vs Polishing
We just wanted to add a quick side note to compare
buffing vs polishing here. Many people think polishing is the final step that leaves a bright mirror finish, but it actually comes before buffing.
Polishing a metal uses a more abrasive product than buffing. The entire sanding process can technically be considered “polishing” the brass, but usually the later stages of sanding with finer grit abrasives is where real polishing comes into play.
The purpose of polishing is to smooth out a surface and remove any visual imperfections. Buffing goes even further towards a perfect surface by using less
abrasive products that will smooth out the surface to remove any scratches or uneven patches that you won’t be able to see with the naked eye.
Step 3 - Buffing Brass
Once you’ve successfully sanded your brass, it is time to buff it out. This is the step that can get you a mirror finish which includes cut buffing and color buffing.
Cut buffing removes the fine scratches remaining after the sanding and polishing steps. Cut buffing brass is best done with either a
sisal buffing wheel or a
firm airway buff along with an abrasive buffing compound.
Color buffing is used for final polish buffing to bring out the luster and brilliance of the metal. This step is where you’ll see your reflection in the metal, if you took your time to do the entire buffing and polishing process correctly. At this point, you’ll use a looser buffing wheel along with
buffing compounds that have little to no abrasive materials in them.
https://www.kramerindustriesonline.com/product-category/tumbling-media/
https://www.empireabrasives.com/blog/how-to-buff-and-polish-brass-like-a-pro/