Ok Reforming brass...

[Afy]

What tools do I need and how do I do it?

Seems like remington brass is not good for the .260 so I need to remidey that I believe reworking .243 brass from Lapua. Reforming from .308 isnt a viable option since .308 is categorised as a War caliber... hence enter hoops to jump through. I am too fat to jump...

 

[rcmodel]

Seems like remington brass is not good for the .260

Who told you that?

rcmodel

 

[Afy]

Everyone I have spoken to. Including the guys building the gun are reccomending going the reforming way.

 

[McCall911]

Huntington's has RCBS case forming dies for converting .243 to .260 at the princely sum of $7.98 US (a little over 5 euros, minus shipping.)

Item # 09824 on this page:

http://www.huntingtons.com/dies_caseform.html

Huntington's also ships internationally.

 

[Afy]

I can get the dies... but what do I do then? How do I neck turn? Do I need to anneal?
How do I anneal?

Once I use the resizer, neck turn etc.. tumble and full size resize?

I am absolutely clueless

 

[rcmodel]

Well then, who am I to question everyone, including the guys building the gun!

But if you fire-form new .260 Rem brass in your custom chamber, and then reload it properly, I fail to see what reformed .243 brass would have that would make it better.

rcmodel

 

[rcmodel]

Item # 09824 on this page:

http://www.huntingtons.com/dies_caseform.html

All you get is a tapered .260 expander button for your .260 sizing die.

rcmodel

 

[Afy]

rcmodel,

people are saying that the brass is weak.. i.e. too soft. Primer pockets are too big, and are leading to gas seepage etc...

I have ordered a small batch of remington brass, and do plan to load it up. If it works ok.. then I will order more.

Havent ruled remington brass out. My policy is to listen to everyone, and verify where possible.

 

[Zak Smith]

I detail exactly how I form 260 brass from 243 in the two articles.

 

[Afy]

Zak yes you do.

However I am looking for a lot more detail. I have never formed brass and am very new to reloading.

 

[DUCKNDAWG]

if you got 7-08 brass you can form 260 brass from it in one shot. but i would just get 260 brass myself and load them and have fun shootin them

 

[redneck2]

I re-form cases for my .357 Herrett from .30-30's, and it's quite a bit more involved.

Actually, I'd just use the .260 dies. They'll probably work fine as is. Remove the expander button from the .260 decapper and polish it REALLY well with oiled emery cloth. Lube the inside of the case necks with a neck brush and lightly lube the expander ball and necks with some Rooster CFL (case forming lube). It is available from Midway. There are other lubes. None work as well.

If the decapper is smooth and the ball and neck well lubed, the necks typically open right up if you use slow, easy pressure.

Go to Varmint Al's site http://www.varmintal.com/index.htm and you'll find everything you need to know about annealing. People make a big deal out of this, but it's really easy.

You most likely won't have to turn the necks. They may be thin anyway because you're stretching the brass from .243 to .260.

As a note, I'd still try Remington brass. There was an extensive article in Handloader an issue or two ago. Remington has as good of quality control as Norma and Lapua. At one time, Remington must have had some issues with soft brass, but this seems to have been corrected.

 

[Doug b]

Afy remington pistol brass leaves a lot to be desired IMO but rem. rifle brass is good stuff.Maybe this is were your getting your thin and leaky input.

 

[Zak Smith]

Use 6.5mm neck-up mandrel from Precision Reloading. Use Imperial sizing wax. Neck turn with K&M tool so whole neck area is same thickness as mouth, including cutting back where the shoulder turned into the neck area. Full resize once more. Tumble to remove wax. Load.