Old Model Ruger

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Bullit13

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I recently acquired a 3 screw/Old Model Ruger BlackHawk .357 that has'nt been changed over to New Model {trigger mechanism etc.} I was wondering if and when I send it back to Ruger Corp. do I send the revolver complete or do I keep the cyclinder with me ?
 
Send it all to them. They have a page on their website that gives good instructions. I'll see if I can link to it.

edit:
http://www.ruger-firearms.com/pdf/safetyOfferAd.pdf

It doesn't mentioned shipping the cylinder, but I'd advise it.
You can of course contact them directly and get all the answers you'd like.
Telephone: 603-865-2442
(Monday through Friday 8:00am - 5:00pm EST)
 
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By all means ship the cylinder with the gun.

They have to have it to check timing after the new parts are installed.

rc
 
I would sure keep it orginial too, but who am I to tell someone else to disregard a safety recall if thats what they want to do.

rc
 
I have to agree, I would leave it also. Just never forget that that gun has limitations and load and carry accordingly and take the time to fully inform anyone who might ever use it. There are many that have no idea and will fill every hole in the cylinder all the time.
 
If you plan on not converting it, please teach your kids well on how to properly load it. Load one, skip one and load the rest. That way the hammer will rest on an empty cylinder. Teach em well.
 
Also be aware that you won't get the old parts back.

I agree that it would be smarter to sell what you have, and buy one that comes with a transfer bar safety. Do check the following link.

www.cdnnsports.com
 
Another vote for not converting it. If you think safety is a big issue then sell it to someone who likes and appreciates the 3-screw models and get a Lawyer Compliant New Model for your own use. People are paying better than new prices for the 3-screw Rugers, please don't let the factory ruin it.

Dave
 
I carry a Colt SAA (Second edition, .357 Mag) frequently, so I'm very conscious of "Five beans in the wheel." That being the case, I would not convert the gun -- I'd use the safety between my ears.

However, the conversion doesn't alter the gun -- no metal is removed or added, just parts. Since you get the original parts back, if you ever decide to sell it, you can re-convert it.
 
With .357 Magnum, you can lower the hammer between rounds and make that SAA about as safe with six as with five rounds.

Jim
 
Before sending in a gun, double-check to be SURE they return the old parts. I know what the website says, but I've heard otherwise.

Put bluntly, they don't want any guns being backward converted.
 
With .357 Magnum, you can lower the hammer between rounds and make that SAA about as safe with six as with five rounds.
I used to carry it that way, but I had a conversation with a fellow (whose name is on the tip of my tongue -- he was a Technical Editor at the American Rifleman at the time) and he convinced me you can break the tip of the firing pin that way.

Anyway, I've carried it hammer down on an empty chamber ever since.
 
I have done "between the rims" on occasion with 32-20 Colt SAA's & hammer mounted firing pins, but no longer do it at all.

No sense practicing an unsafe practice when I carry a .45 Colt more often, and it won't work at all with them.

rc
 
I'm also in the mind-set of why send it in for NM lockwork when you could sell it and buy a NM, maybe having $ left over and the Om will be in the hands of someone that'll appreciate the OM design and leave it alone. All getting the conversion done will do is lessen the value. Safety is still up to the person holding the revolver.
 
I've played around with the pin-between-the-rims trick on one of my guns. I'm not sure it would break the pin on my gun, because the pin doesn't lean against the cylinder. That would depend entirely on the exact dimensions of the gun in question, of course.

However, what I found was that it is VERY easy to nudge the hammer into 1/4 cock, and in 1/4 cock, the cylinder spins freely from that "between the rims" position to the nearest charge hole, where it will lock. Then you are back to carrying 6 in the really dangerous way.

I didn't feel that the "between the rims" method provided enough safety for my taste. A quick nudge, like that which might happen in the very situation that led to you dropping the gun, and the hammer is over a loaded charge hole.

Now WRT whether to screw with a 3-screw, I'm more of the "leave it alone" school of thought. New Models are readily available and relatively cheap either new or used, so if you need a carry single action, just get a New Model and be done with it.

The Old Models are perfectly safe to play with, if you understand the limitations of an original-style single action.
 
I recently acquired a 3 screw/Old Model Ruger BlackHawk .357 that has'nt been changed over to New Model {trigger mechanism etc.} I was wondering if and when I send it back to Ruger Corp. do I send the revolver complete or do I keep the cyclinder with me ?
It would be better to send the cylinder and not need to have to, than to not send it and need to do so later for some unforeseen problem, which would delay your getting it back.

It is unclear what you wish to have them do. If you specifically want to have them install the safety conversion, fine. If not, and you're sending it in for other repairs, be advised that they will convert it whether you wish it or not. Also, the one converted revolver I had (a Super Blackhawk) had a very heavy trigger pull, but I don't know if this is typical. Finally, the conversion does not turn it into a New Model. You still place the hammer on half cock to rotate the cylinder (the "safety notch" is eliminated) and the loading gate and cylinder indexing work as before.
 
or you can remove the lock work to make sure it stays with you and send in the rest of the assembled revolver. Use proper screwdrivers, though, or you'll regret it.

I have a 1956 a very clean, unfired vintage Flatgate that was converted before I got it. No origonal lockwork came with it. It does knock down the desirability of the revolver, which lessens your buyer base. Used lockwork will cost about $100-$125, about the same amount the revolver value drops if there is no lock work in it. So I'd be no farther ahead getting used lockwork.
 
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