Old S&W model 10 backround info requested

[Fun2Shoot]

I'm not much of a wheel gun guy, BUT I just had to make an exception for a really nice S&W model 10 with a 6" barrel with target hammer and trigger that was just begging to be bought and shot at my LGS.

I've gone to the S&W website and they want $30 to give basic serial number backround info for my 'new to me' revolver. Maybe you can enlightened me for less than that cost at the THR.

Here's the gun's info:

There is no model number under the crane on the frame, just a capital letter 'D' above a capital letter 'T' below it. The crane has the number '9392' on it and a very faint 'T' on it also.

The gun's serial number is: 3982XX.

The blueing still look fine overall with just a few flecks of pitting here and there, but the backstrap (underneath the S&W wooden grips) is ugly.

Whatever info you can give is appreciated.

PS. The trigger on this S&W mod 10 is great! The SA breaks like glass with just a light touch. Not bad for $220 IMO.

Fun2Shoot

 

[SaxonPig]

The model numbers started in 1957 so anything made before that will not have one. A K frame, fixed-sight .38 Special made prior to the use of the model numbers is call a Military & Police model (M&P).

The serial is on the butt between the stocks or under them if over-sized target stocks are in place. Guns made after WW II will have a letter prefix, like S or C. If that 398xxx number you gave actually is the serial it would be from the middle 1920s. You sure that number is from the butt and there's no letter prefix? The serial will be found here:



These guns normally weren't offered with target hammers and triggers so either you are mistaken about this being what you have or someone has added them.

Here's a 5" M&P made in 1942. Note the round front sight (used until about 1952 or so) and the round "dimple" seen under the cylinder release. This was eliminated by an engineering change in 1944.




The pre-war guns used what is called the "long action" and the double action pull is usually very good on these.

 

[.41Dave]

Some pictures might help. Are you sure there is no letter prefix (K or C) to the serial number? If there is not, then you might have a .38 Military & Police model 1905 4th change made sometime between 1915 and 1945. Can't tell without pics though.

 

[Fun2Shoot]

S&W info correct

Thank SaxonPig for making me look at the serial number on the butt a second time. I was using the sales receipt for my posted info when giving the gun's serial number.

Here is the serial number WITH the letter prefix:

'C' 3982XX

It is also a square butt. I had to use that type of grip when I bought a Hogue Mono-Grip for it. The Mono-grip is a major improvement over the stock S&W wooden grips. Way too narrow at the top, IMO.

It also has fixed sights with the so-called half-moon rear sight and a kind of tall front sight with serations on the visible sight.

I really like this revolver already. I'm not ready to abandon my semi-autos just yet, but this Smith model 10 reminds me why I shot my Ruger Security-Six so much decades ago before I became a semi-auto devotee.

Revolvers do have their own unique allure.

My son says he will help me with posting pictures latter. I really should learn to do that.

 

[Fun2Shoot]

Hey, while we're on the subject of this ol' S&W .38 Special, I see that one of the above posters has a stack of .38 +P behind his old S&W M&P.

What is everyone's opinion on using .38 +P in this ol' S&W now and then?

 

[Flatfender]

M&P model. Pre Model 10. 5 screw. Pinned barrel.

Yours was made between 1954 - 1956. Serial number range C277555 to C402923.

 

[Fun2Shoot]

M&P model. Pre Model 10. 5 screw. Pinned barrel.

Thanks Flatfender, it does have a 'pinned' barrel I see, but I do have a question about the '5 screw' part.

As I look at the right sight of this gun, I see only 3 screws on the side plate with the S&W logo on it. I'm I overlooking 2 screws somewhere?

 

[Will5A1]

One additional screw should be in front of the trigger guard and another one under the grip.

Firing +P every now and again should now cause any harm. You have scored an excellent revolver at a great price.

 

[Fun2Shoot]

One additional screw should be in front of the trigger guard and another one under the grip.

Right you are! I'm obviously a S&W revolver rookie. I now see the 'other' two screws. The one on the front trigger guard and on the lower (covered) butt.

So it is a five screw.

And yes, I think that this M&P (I'll stop calling it a 'model 10') was a good and maybe great buy. The guy who runs the gun shop where I bought it is no newbie. He knows guns and buys and has sold them everyday for many years. So I guess that maybe he just had this ol' M&P priced on the low end of the price spectrum.

Good for me!

 

[Old Fuff]

Six-inch barreled .38 Special revolvers are not particularly popular with today's younger buyers, and this may reflect the dealer's willingness to discount the price. In any event you got a great shooter for an equally great price.

The $30.00 fee at Smith & Wesson isn't for "basic information." If you want to know when the gun was made they'll tell you that over the phone for free.

For $30.00 they will have their company historian, Roy Jinks, go back and find your gun in the shipping records - which is no easy task because they aren't computerized, and guns weren't shipped in order. He will then send you a letter on S&W letterhead, with a short history of the model, and then the particulars about your revolver, including caliber, barrel length, finish, and the exact day it was shipped from the factory, and to what dealer or distributor.

Oh, and half of that $30.00 is contributed to the U.S. Olympic Shooting Team.

 

[SaxonPig]

The 1942 M&P in the photo is being fired with factory +P and my own hand-loads that are much warmer to prove that the older guns will not be harmed by factory +P which is actually loaded well below industry maximum pressure for the caliber.

Shoot all the +P in your gun that you like.

 

[Fun2Shoot]

+P good to go - Far Out!

......older guns will not be harmed by factory +P which is actually loaded well below industry maximum pressure for the caliber.

Shoot all the +P in your gun that you like.

Thanks Saxon. You just punched my A-ticket. I've got a box of Remington .38 +P left over from my S&W 642 ownership days and I'm going to run it through this old M&P ASAP.

I feel like a 1950's cop when I hold this old Smith.

 

[XavierBreath]

C 3982XX=1954-1956

C prefix guns have the short throw hammer, but are great shooting guns none the less.

$220 was a deal.

Your revolver may wear transitional diamond magnas. Keep the original grips with the revolver regardless. They are serial numbered to the gun. Use the Monogrip for shooting if you like, but the lack of original grips seriously devalues your gun in the marketplace. Just put them in a sock and toss them in the safe. They are hard to find nowadays, although the price has not gone above $50 yet. Most folks don't understand the difference between early transitional and later rounded diamond magna grips.

Eventhough it can handle it, I would avoid +P ammo due to accelerated wear. There is just no reason for it except for self defense.

If you become interested in S&W revolvers, the Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson by Jim Supica is a great buy.

A letter from Roy Jinks is a great buy as well.

You have a great shooting sidearm. It is, however, a M&P. Military & Police, not a Model 10, and definitely not Metal & Plastic.

 

[Old Fuff]

Even though it can handle it, I would avoid +P ammo due to accelerated wear. There is just no reason for it except for self defense.

I agree with X-Breath on this point, and we are both supported by the Smith & Wesson company.

The Military & Police revolver is a hardy one, but does have some weak points. One of them in the yoke barrel, on which the cylinder revolves. It is in effect a tube, with very thin walls. If there is any space between the end of the yoke barrel and the cylinder, the cylinder can move back and forth and batter the end of those thin walls. In time, the movement of the cylinder, called "end shake" will increase because the heavy cylinder has additional run-up before it hits the end of the yoke barrel. This condition can be fixed several ways, but the best way is to avoid it in the first place.

At one time S&W would flame-harden the end of the yoke barrel, and this substantially decreased the likelyhood of the cylinder developing end shake. But like so many things the practice was discontinued to save money. As a consequence some of the older guns may actually be more resistant to end shake then the later numbered model 10's. The problem is that it's sometimes dificult to tell what is and what isn't.

I personally want to do everything possible to preserve these fine revolvers, and I seldom carry one as a weapon. On those occasions the chambers will likely be filled with Plus-P 158 grain cartridges. Otherwise I shoot "cowboy loads," made for the Cowboy Action Shooting sport. They largely duplicate the old .38 Special Standard Police load, are easy on both the shooter and gun, and usually shoot to the point of aim. I see no reason to ask the old timer too do more.

While I am not one of them, I can understand why some folks want all of the power they can get - sometimes in the lightest possible gun. For those I have an easy solution. Get a .357 Magnum or larger. If you think raw power in itself is the answer this is the best way to go.

 

[revolverman357]

Not meaning to hijack this thread, I just found a pre model 10 (M&P) this past week at a gunshow and appreciate the information in this discussion, as I am trying to learn all I can about this gun. It too has the "C" suffix serial number. I have shot it with my mild 158gr SWC handloads, and it shoots great and accurate. I have found an appreciation for these old guns that some folks may not understand. Here's a pic:

 

[Fun2Shoot]

Your revolver may wear transitional diamond magnas. Keep the original grips with the revolver regardless. They are serial numbered to the gun.

Right you are XavierBreath. I looked at the back of these stock S&W grips and low & behold, there is the serial number stamped in the right side grip. The numbers are in a sort of jumble. That is, not in a line, the first three numbers are over the last three numbers. According to your description, my grips are the rounded top edge type.

For $30.00 they will have their company historian, Roy Jinks, go back and find your gun in the shipping records - which is no easy task...

Thanks Old Fuff. I'm going to the S&W website later to order the history on this M&P from the early 1950's.

I shot about 150 rds with the gun today, about 60 +P and the rest .38sp. After I got use to the proper sight picture, I was grouping at about 5 or less inches at 75 ft, shooting 2-handed free standing. It wants to be aimed at the center of the target (not 6 o'clock) and the best groupings come when I made a sort of cross with the sights. That is, half the front sight above the top plane of the rear sight and the rest of the front sight below the rear notch. A bit odd versus my past revolvers with fixed sights, but still quite workable.

Thanks for the input everyone.

 

[Old Fuff]

It wants to be aimed at the center of the target (not 6 o'clock)

It was supposed to be a weapon, not a target pistol...

Note the name, Military & Police...

In those days S&W actually targeted service pistols to shoot center at 20 yards (60 feet).

 

[Fun2Shoot]

It was supposed to be a weapon, not a target pistol...

Note the name, Military & Police...

Not a target pistol? Then why does it have a target hammer and trigger?

 

[Old Fuff]

Then why does it have a target hammer and trigger?

Because some dang fool had 'um put in where they ain't supposed to be...

If you don't get them out'ta there someone here in the tactical bunch will come along and hang an accessory rail on it...

I just happen to have a regular hammer & trigger I could swap you for them... ah... well .... I know! Incorrect parts...

 

[XavierBreath]

Hey....I got a "combat" hammer and trigger........tactical blue too.........

 

[Old Fuff]

Ah just knew you'd be along...!!

Go away, I saw him first....

 

[bandoo]

Since we're talkin' about old S&Ws...

I spent $2oo on one the other day (told the wife it followed me home ) No mod. number, but the frame is marked with a "3 s" and under that are the numbers "92304". Any info on this piece would be appreciated.
Before anyone comments, I buy all my guns legal and good to go. I don't care who reads the serial #s.

 

[Old Fuff]

Need more information:

Caliber?

Number of chambers?

Stock material (wood, hard rubber, etc.)?

Any patent dates on top of the barrel?

Fixed or adjustable sights?

Serial No. (stamped on bottom of butt - may include letter like "S" "K" or "C"

If you can post a picture it would help considerably.

 

[bandoo]

More info.

.38 special
6 rounds
wooden grips
Nothing on top of the barrel
C 165141 on bottom grip strap
No pics, sorry.

 

[Old Fuff]

Well you didn't do too bad... Sometimes a little information can go a long way.

It would appear that you have a Smith & Wesson .38 Military & Police (pre-model 10) revolver, made in 1948. This would make it one of the desireable "5-screw/pinned barrel" guns, as the upper sideplate screw was eliminated in 1955. If the wood stocks are original there should be a large diamond around the screw, and if you remove them, all or part of the gun's serial number will be stamped on one or both grips. This indicates that they were hand fitted to that particular revolver. If it's in good shape it is well worth what you paid for it.