On a scale of 1-10, AR-15 assembly

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WhoKnowsWho

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For a reasonably mechanically inclined person, how dificult would it be to make an AR-15 from a parts kit? A Bushmaster lower and Model 1 Sales Upper is tempting for a end of the year Christmas gift for um, my wife and I, yeah... that's it.

I used to build models a lot, so small springs and such are not a hinderance for my sausage fingers. So I think I should be okay. Let me know how your experiences have gone.
 
If its an assembled lower and upper with 1 being easiest i'd say umm 0. If its a stripped lower I'd say 2 or 3, if its a stripped (unbarreled) upper 3 or 4. Its very easy especially if you spend a few bucks for the proper tools.

There are people who have assembled these things on the floor with a rock and a sharp stick (only slight exageration) who will tell you that you don't even need the sharp stick. They are still alive so maybe they are right;)
 
Assembling an AR from parts is a fairly easy job as long as you have the right tools and manuals. You can download many of the TMs from AR15.com for free. You might find that buying the appropriate tools for a 1-of is going to be somewhat expensive - then again, why stop at 1? :D
 
Assembling a lower from scratch is a no brainer. Just a couple of simple tools, though not mandatory. The upper might require some more tools (like a barrel wrench for example) and it's imperative to get headspace gauge. You don't want to have the wrong headspacing.

However, if you plan on buying an assembled upper, well that pretty much concludes your assembly.
 
I am a mechanical idiot. I take even the most basic problems to a gunsmith. I have let guns sit for years because of a simple problem. I have gotten help to change my oil. I have had to call someone to help me put my brakes back together. I would never even consider working on any plumbing. I had a sales person install a belt clip on my cell phone yesterday.
I have assembled 3-4 AR lowers on my kitchen countertop using a brass hammer, paper clip, needle nosed pliers, and some duct tape. After the first couple I did away with the paper clip and the pliers.
I would give it a one.
The upper is maybe a 3. I can do it with no problem. It isn't any more difficult than the lower but does require more tools.
 
If you can:
1. Use a screw driver without impaling yourself,
2. Use a hammer without removing digits,
and
3. Follow simple directions such as those for putting together a lego model;
You should do fine.

Kharn
 
It's not hard. Make sure you buy quality parts from a reputable manufacturer. Pay a little more for Colt, Armalite or Bushmaster parts. You won't be sorry. I'd stay away from ASA, Model 1 and some of the other parts dealers. It seems to be hit or miss on the quality and that can lead to frustration.

Jeff
 
OK I'm dumb, please VERY CAREFULLY explain the logic of why? I've had the Oly Plinker for 6 months now and I can't come up with one negative comment. $575 with lifetime warranty and it outshoots my SP1 hands down, the quality for me is very good/exceptable and I read somewhere that it's guaranteed to shoot 1 moa (?). The fact that it has a cast receiver is a downer but the lifetime warranty kind of makes it Oly's problem (if there is one) not mine. Other than the joy of building your own AR15, whats the benefit? This of course assumes that you are not building it for match shooting. Having a good manufacturer assemble it (I feel Oly is good) offers so many benefits that you lose when you do it yourself. Looking at the price of the different "parts" required to build your own, IMHO it seems only a worthwhile project if you are building a "high end" target AR15. I do not shoot competition nor do I ever plan to, is that why building an AR15 has little incentive for me?
 
OK I'm dumb, please VERY CAREFULLY explain the logic of why?

Why would someone bother to build an H&K USP45 when they can have a Ruger P90 for the same price?

If you are not personally satisfied with the prospect of a cast lower, then there's LOTS of little $ benefits to "building your own". If "cast" doesn't bother you, then there is no reason.

I've never owned an Oly, but of the "bigger names", I read more complaints about them on ar15.com than any other brand. Now I myself have said that if you spend enough time on the internet, somebodys' gonna say something negative about everything... but complaint for complaint, brand names only, Oly gets more complaints. (Hesse beats 'em all).

In my research, I've found that I could purchase a complete upper, and all Rock River parts, and still be well under $600 all told. That's incentive to me, as I do not want a cast lower.

YMMV.
 
When a gun manufacturer sells a firearm they made, they must pay a 11% tax on the value of the firearm (Federal excise tax). For $800 complete rifle, thats like $75-80 of the cost of the rifle, on a $100 lower, its like $10. Gunstores also usually have more profit/revenue built into a $800 rifle that is in stock, and a $100 lower reciever that was also in stock.

Thus, you save $65-70 as your rifle only paid the 11% tax on the lower, rather than on the value of the lower and the parts kit. You also save whatever the difference is in the gunstore's fee. So, if you order the parts kit seperately from the lower, you could save anywhere from $65 to $150+ by assembling it yourself.

Kharn
 
"Other than the joy of building your own AR15, whats the benefit? "
Why do we have to discount the joy aspect ? I didn't care in the least about the cost of it. I would have built my first one if it cost twice as much. I wanted to build one just because I wanted to build one. If cost is an issue, I know I can build one for less. I found a guy on AR15.com that was selling lowers for $79 each. These were forged lowers. Out the door they ended up costing me a little more than $100. A Bushmaster lower receiver parts kit is $64.95 and a stock is $74.95. So they cost me very close to $239.90. A complete lower with buttstock from Bushmaster is $295 plus the dealer vigorish. Putting one of these together is not rocket science. In fact, as far as I am concerned, the ones I put together couldn't have been put together any better by the finest gunsmith that ever lived. These are military rifles, designed to be easily repaired. There is no hand fitting of parts, there is no fine finish; the parts are just assembled and there is only one way to do it. The upper receiver tends to lose out financially because of the tools that you pretty much have to buy in order to do it right. Although, if you don't consider the tools, you can certainly save money putting together your own upper. In fact I priced one out last night. Realistically, the only way you could not count the price of the tools is if you do enough of them to make it worthwhile, or you borrow the tools, or you split the tools with someone else. The upper I priced out last night was for an older pre-ban Colt. They have different pin sizes than any other manufacturer. So, there arn't uppers lying around on every street corner that fit your lower without using adapter pins. And even if you find one, it might not be the configuration you want. So, you build it yourself. For example; I wanted to put together an AR15 that was a clone of the rifle I was issued in the military in the early 80s. This would have a forward assist, no brass deflector, 20" pencil barrel, bayonet lug, and triangular handguards. I have never seen such an upper advertised and if I wanted to build one, I couldn't use the upper receivers currently produced because they have a brass deflector. So, I was at a gunshow and spotted a used upper with an 11.5" barrel and 5" Flash suppressor. I wasn't really interested in this configuration, but the upper receiver was exactly what I needed, so I bought it and took it apart to use to make the upper I wanted. But the real reason I do it is because it is a neat project to work on. Although I was kind of disappointed because it was so easy, the project was done in a couple hours. You learn all the ins and outs of the rifle. If you ever have a problem, you know how the rifle works and how to fix it. And you can build it the way you want it. You can buy the parts you want, and you don't have to buy the parts that you don't want that you are only going to take off. I have a whole pile of handguards from factory rifles that I have removed. In a couple cases I thought it would be cool to have green furniture rather than black, so I now have black pistol grips and handguards lying around. In another case, I bought a Bushmaster M4. Unlike the real M4, it came with the small carbine handguards. I wanted the real M4 handguards. So I ended up paying for a set that I never used. Yet another case, I wanted a Knight's Armament RAS II. So, I removed the handguards that were on the rifle and replaced them with the RAS II; another set of handguards that I paid for that are now in the pile. I have another rifle with a Surefire 500 series weapons light on it. This is a flashlight unit that is built into a set of handguards; another set of old handguards lying in the pile. Maybe you want an Ace Skeleton Stock. Why should you buy a complete rifle, take the stock off and buy the new one when you could simply buy the stock you want and put it on. I have a Colt Lightweight Sporter in 9mm. It is a pre-ban rifle and I wanted a collapsable stock on it, so I now have an A2 stock sitting here in the pile, which again, I paid for when I bought the complete rifle.

"Having a good manufacturer assemble it (I feel Oly is good) offers so many benefits that you lose when you do it yourself."

What are these benefits ?
 
Well I went the extreamly easy route. I purchased a complete lower and a complete upper and set the two together installed the two pins and had a complete AR15 in about 45 seconds. It was the best thing I ever did for fun factor worst thing I ever did for my bank account. The accesories will kill you.

Back on topic though it looks pretty easy if you have even a little mechanical ability and can read direcitions. From what I have read about it though I would invest in some roll pin punches.
 
I'd say about a 2. Tougher parts are barreling and sticking bolt release pin in. The barrel is still pretty straight forward, just need a barrel nut wrench and an action vise block. If you can borrow some one elses tools that'll cut the costs a bit. I think its about 30 for the action block and 25 or so for the wrench. A torque wrench is also very handy to make sure you get the nut tight nuff without over tightening.

The bolt release pin is only "hard" due to the posibility of maring the reciever on the exterior. a couple peices of masking tape (or duct tape) will protect the reciever in case your pin punch rolls off the pin.

I completely assembled my Bushmaster M4gery. I just couldn't get the barrel I wanted in a complete upper much less a completed gun at the time. I don't think they even offer it yet. It was a great learning experience non the less. I now know how everything fits together in an AR15. As Martha would say, "It's a good thing." :D
 
Sounds good. I'll most likely get an assembled and tested upper to save the trouble of that part of the assembly. Thanks for the info!
 
well, you guys done convinced me. I had a Colt 1991A1 on order, but it's been over two months with no sign of the pistol, so I canceled the order and ordered a bushmaster complete lower instead. now, I get to inundate you guys with questions as to what parts to get for the upper!!
 
I just picked up a stripped RRA lower for $85.00 and am plannning on putting one together soon. Who offers a "parts kit" complete with stock?
Another question I have is how good are the Fulton Armory uppers (complete)?

Snake
 
I heartily recommend the JT Distributing parts kits, they are super people to deal with, and the guys at ar15.com usually have nothing but kind words about them.

Michael
 
I have built using both Bushmaster and J&T parts kits. I have been happy so far with the one built with a J&T parts kit, although one thing bothers me about it and a lot of interent discussion has taken place about it. J&T advertises that they use FN parts. However it is a widely accepted fact that FNs contract to the US Government prevents them from making civilian sales of their parts or complete rifles. So where does J&T get their parts ? Are they lying about them being FN parts ? Are they parts that are made by the same company that produces FNs parts so they call them FN parts ? Are the seconds ? Who knows ?
So, I just began using Bushmaster parts. I mentioned all this in a previous post on this very thread but Bushmaster has all the stuff you ask about. You will need to buy the lower receiver parts kit, and then you will need to buy whatever stock you want. If you get a standard stock make sure it comes with a buffer tube and spring.
 
Given their solid reputation, I would have no apprehension about using a Rock River Arms parts kit. I've seen those for @$55 IIRC.

That's without the buttstock, but I prefer it that way, since it gives me the option to buy the exact one I want...

AR15.com has a "build it yourself" section, but I've actually learned more about available parts and prices from the "Pistol and Rimfire calibers" and "Equipment Exchange" sections of that forum.

Even though I'm still torn between a completely assembled $600 pistol caliber carbine that's 100% lefty friendly right out of the box (Cx4 Storm) and building my own 9mm AR for @600 + left-handed parts + mag conversion block etc... If I DO go the "build it" route, I'll probably get most of my stuff from www.sableco.net, www.coalcreekarmory.com and "Legal Transfers" from AR15.com.
 
Onslaught

Onslaught .... what a coincidence, I'm at the same position as you are, deciding/debating between the upcoming CX-4 Storm and the RRA 9mm AR-15.
Both models have their own pros and cons when personal preferences are included. For me, I like the CX-4's weight and length, and I've located some new Beretta high cap magazines for that. But I'll consider cut off the thumb stock part and even convert the entire stock or change its contour. I guess the big unknown is how reliable this new model turns out and its maintenance aspect. I learned a lot from the AR15.com on the 9mm model, seems like an ACE skeleton stock with aluminum handguard may look good together, but then the AR always has the magazine block problems no matter which way to go, plus it is always dirty after each session.
Too bad can't afford to have both at the same time. Wish there is more info on the CX-4 available as we're approaching the May-June release date. The Beretta staff said the suggested price would be at high six hundreds, we will see.
If you have more info on CX-4, please share with us. Thanks ;)
 
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