one man's reloading economics

[labnoti]

I just got into reloading "to save money." Here's what I've spent and how I might do it differently:

Expenses irrespective of "single-stage," "turret," or "progressive," and what color it is:

tumbler with stainless media 259.99
media separator 7.99
case blocks (4) 35.96
case prep center 120.71
trimmer 8.09
press stand (or workbench) 108.99
bin rack 10.79
chronograph 101.61
one set of dies 46.49
subtotal 700.62

notes: Some of these items may be unnecessary, some may already be possessed. For me, I already had a tripod and head for the chronograph. Consider that these expenses could be more than 2/3rds the total expense. Another expense unaccounted for is the shed or garage workspace.

powder measure 59.91
powder measure stand 35.91
press 122.5
die rack 10.79
die lock rings 25.98
hand priming tool 59.99
subtotal 315.08

notes: Most of the equipment is LEE, with some RCBS. I went with a single-stage press, a separate powder measure, and hand-priming tool. That's the way I like to work. It can be done for less, but the small savings from say priming on the press won't make a difference in the big picture. Stepping up to a Dillon progressive press could increase the expense in this latter category considerably, without reducing the former category.

Reloading a cartridge where factory ammo costs $0.29 per round, primer, powder and bullets are costing $0.16 - $0.20 (depending on bullet and powder choice). If I load the most economical of choices among my preferences at $0.16 per round, I'll break-even after some 8000 rounds, which will probably be less than a year.

"I could save even more if I bought bullet casting equipment." I decided not to and I load jacketed or plated bullets only for health reasons.

It makes sense to account for the expense of labor to reload. I think most reloaders enjoy it, but we all consider how much time we're willing to spend on any part of it. Who wants to clean 1000 primer pockets by hand? We buy equipment to save labor costs, trading money for time. Dillon suggests various models of their presses will load 400-1000 rounds per hour. I could be done with my production needs for a year after only a day of reloading, but others shoot a lot more than I do and producing tens of thousands of rounds per year would take too long on a single-stage. At that volume, break-even and savings would happen sooner too, even with higher capital expenditures.

I figured out what I need to do is buy a gun that will shoot more expensive ammo, so I can save more reloading.

 

[Hokie_PhD]

I figured out what I need to do is buy a gun that will shoot more expensive ammo, so I can save more reloading.

Sounds like good logic to me.

Looking at your list, I don't see calipers, a scale, and reloading manuals.

Last year, I did a work up on a beginner setup that could be done for less than $200. Nothing on the list I made was special but everything were things that would be useful no matter how much experience you have.

I'll admit that I'm frugal and I try to find a balance between not spending money and getting the best quality gear I can get for the money. So some items weren't the cheapest but what I felt were good values.

All that aside, I think many in this hobby get caught in the marketing hype and buy a bunch of gear before they learn what they need and what they want. I was fortunate that in my case, I put together my gear while I was going through a tough time. So I bought a little at a time, and got to load ammo and learn as I went. As I learned, I was able to add items to make things faster, and more fun. In my case, I know I've spent less than $1000 and it's probably closer to the $500 to $600 range. But that includes a Lee Hand press and a Lee Classic Turret, as well as several manual, and several sets of dies and turrets.

I'll respectfully disagree with you on the labor cost. I don't factor my time in making ammo as I enjoy it as a hobby. In fact, I find it relaxing and therapeutic. Also, it's hard to compare cheap ammo to custom loaded ammo. Once you get your practices down, and make ammo that you like better than the cheap stuff are you comparing it to match ammo? And can you even get the combination that you may want? 124 gr or 147gr 9mm with BE86 for instance?

I'd also mention that the biggest savings is when you buy in bulk. A min of 1000 bullets at a time, likewise for primers and 8 lbs for powder and things get much cheaper. Mail order it when the hazmat is waived or find a dealer at a gun show with good prices and things get really good!!!!

 

[anothernewb]

The initial cost of reloading equipment is steep. I don't want to add up how much reloading stuff I've bought since 2008.

However, most of the gear itself lasts for a lifetime. The old buy once, cry once thinking process.

if you're like me and others here. you've taken at least one time to add up how much ammo you have to shoot before you "break even"

 

[JeffG]

A long time ago I used "money saving" as my justification to reload. Now I just admit that I really enjoy crafting my own ammunition.

 

[GT1]

All it will take is an ammo panic over nothing and you'll be stocked up and sitting pretty, while factory buyers won't be able to shoot, or they will pay 50 cents a round for .223 range blasting ammo or whatever. Then you will be way ahead.
I started right at the end of 2012, I've seen it.

 

[George P]

I reload because I am cheap; been doing it for about 35 years. As little as I shoot rifle now, and as cheap as 9mm ammo is now, I would do a little consolidation and NOT reload. I can buy 9mm, Speer 124 Lawman, for right at .19/each and sell the empties for about .02/each, dropping my cost to what it would cost to reload.

I can buy Winchester AA 28 gauge ammo for $9/box delivered, get $2/box rebate and sell those empties for .12/each to deduct another $3/box, making my cost $4/box, while reloading would make my cost $3.85 - and that is with buying components in bulk. Basic 12 and 20 can be bought for about $5/box delivered. No expensive progressive presses, no huge amount of space taken up with bags of wads, jugs of powder, etc.

So it comes down to this simply - you enjoy it as an extension of your shooting hobby, or you are reloading for calibers that are obscure or REALLY expensive bought new - which is typically in the rifle categories

 

[adcoch1]

I started on 30-06 and 44 mag, so my break even was about when my first batch of bulk bullets were used up. I can't count the time, since I reload for fun. I completely agree with the logic of getting guns with expensive ammo too. I always burn up some 44 just plinking when I get to the range, and I look at oddball calibers with new eyes at gunshows and such. Lately I've developed a serious appreciation for big bore rifles, and hunting down brass for them. It's not like I need a 458 Lott, but I will probably buy one if it shows up...

 

[labnoti]

Looking at your list, I don't see calipers, a scale, and reloading manuals.

Right. Those were other things I had already, but very necessary. They're also in the first category of items that aren't specific to whether one uses single stage, progressive or what color.

 

[fotheringill]

Now, I always recommend getting a kit on sale instead of buy once .... theory.
I took the buy one route when I started and I am sorry I did. I replaced, over a there year period everything except my RCBS RockChucker Super Duper Supreme but had to install a primer catcher for $25 or so.

The truth is that a brand new reloader doesn't know what he needs as compared to what he wants. Spend the $200-$300 to get your feet wet instead of plunging off the reloading cliff first time around.

 

[Jack B.]

I reload because I like loading my own. Now a days I reload some expensive calibers to buy. I might be saving $$$ but I really don't care. They are my concoctions and they are better IMO than what I can buy.

 

[iShoot17]

I would dare to say that reloading is as much of a hobby as shooting is to me. I also like knowing that I’m bound very little when it comes to calibers I may come across. Rare cartridge, with no factory ammo? I can reload. No brass to be had? Maybe I can form it. Bringing back some old beauties to the hunting woods again is a very enjoyable result. I personally see shooting and reloading, as necessary hobbies for one another.

 

[mdi]

Just out of curiosity I checked out your lists and quickly cut over $300.00 from them. If one is going to compare the cost of reloading vs. factory, standards need to be set. Is the equipment purchased the best, most expensive? Is the ammo in the comparison premium high dollar ammo? Or are both economy level? Were components purchased on sale? Any used equipment? (I used a $13.00 press successfully for 5 years, and during that time I purchased some Super Vel ammo, $$).

I'm fortunate I never counted pennies for reloading from my first Lee Loader to my Co-Ax and Redding dies. I reload strictly because I like to....

 

[Axis II]

@labnoti

Ill save you a little bit of money as I was in your shoes about 3yrs ago.

You don't need a bunch of loading blocks unless you have a 30ft bench to hold all the stuff at one time. Buy a Lyman bleacher block or a normal one instead. There I saved you about $20.

I also almost purchased an electric case prep center until I found this guy linked below and added the other item linked below and I didn't spend $150 on it.

I would also ditch the die lock rings as all dies come with them already. saved $25.98.

Ditch the die rack and put them back in the box like I do this way they are out of the way and clean. saved $10.79.

You could get away with a lee PPM as mine has been flawless for 3yrs. I notice you don't have a scale in the mix? Lyman micro touch has been awesome for me as well. You need calipers and at minimum 2 manuals.

You also don't need to spend $108 on a bench. I built mine from 2x4 and MDF for about $60.

If you spending $125 on a press I would skip the single stage and go Lee classic turret.

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Lyman-Case-Care-Kit/1317242.uts?slotId=1

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/509050/lee-8-32-threaded-case-trimmer-cutter-and-lock-stud

 

[3GunEric]

Better value than getting into Golf!

 

[Shanghai McCoy]

If you are not spending Time, Money or Both, it don't count as a Hobby...

 

[blue32]

Eventually you'll take up casting for wallet health reasons.

 

[WestKentucky]

I figured out what I need to do is buy a gun that will shoot more expensive ammo, so I can save more reloading.

Need suggestions? I’m breaking even (cost not quality) on common stuff. I’m saving a fortune on .256winmag, 7-30 waters, 6.8spc, the whole .32 family of rimmed and semi-rimmed straightwalls and 38s&w.

Why am I suddenly daydreaming of craft beer and the home-brew kits...

 

[3Crows]

When I take my time into account, or even without doing so, I do not find a savings of money and a loss of time. I reload to get ammunition that is not available otherwise. In 45-70 there is "trapdoor safe" stuff and then a huge void until getting into the BB/Garret heavy loads. Very little in the middle. But it is easy and fun to load in the middle range and even fun to load below trapdoor level foe the 45-70. Similar with the 45 Colt and to some extent 30-30, all except the Hornady FTX Lever Revolution can be bettered home loading.

But 5.56, 9mm, 40S&W, 38, 357 and 45ACP, sorry, no value or fun in loading those for me. I prefer factory loads for burning at the range and pick the stuff up on sale cheaply enough in bulk. And I am not about to load self defense rounds.

3C

 

[wrench459]

Interesting that in your post you stated four blocks.
I'm finding that the two that I have now is not enough.

 

[Allen One1]

I took a different approach. I convinced my wife that it was cheaper to reload, but didn't mention that we would be shooting more rounds to make up the difference. Then we ran into trouble getting powder so she came around to the reasoning that you should buy powder in bulk when you can find it. Now she doesn't know how much I shoot or have any idea how much it really costs. And if it is a safety item cost is not much of a factor. I shoot to reload.

 

[labnoti]

To be sure, I didn't buy all the things I listed because it was the cheapest way to reload. In fact, I buy mostly with regard to how I like to work. I'm not new to reloading, though I am starting over after having not reloaded for 20+ years and selling all my old equipment many years ago. I like the Lee tripod stand because it takes less space than another workbench. The die rack does likewise. The box would take workbench or toolbox space. I like the die lock rings because they allow me to use the breech lock quick-change system without the dies moving in the rings. I am using a LEE PPM and it's working fine. I prefer to load powder away from the press. I mounted the measure on a piece of melamine-clad MDF I can clamp to the workbench. I do have a workbench, but I often need it to be free of reloading equipment. I'm not actually using the case prep center yet, but got tired of using manual tools. I was tempted to buy a K&M or Fast Brass, which I will probably be tempted with again as soon as I start reloading for rifle. I ordered the Lyman. Really, at this point I consider myself to have the ultimate kit for what I want to do.

I don't think I want a turret press. Here's why. I decap prior to tumbling and a turret doesn't help with that. So once the handgun brass is clean, I flare the mouth before I prime. So the cases come off the press after I flare them. I put the primers in by hand because I can feel the pressure better. One of those K&M tools with the gauge would be nice, but I wasn't willing. I'm using an RCBS Universal Hand Primer. Again, I charge the cases with powder under a powder measure stand. I like to do it that way because the press interferes with handling cases full of powder and pulling the case out of the shellholder results in spills. I want to inspect a block of powder charges before I seat bullets. I often weigh them. I zero the scale on the empty case, and weigh the charge in the shell. That's why I load powder separately from the press. I don't really have consecutive die operations except seating and crimping.

 

[thomas15]

In April I shot 1400 rounds of 9mm and 700 rounds of 22 LR. My budget for May is 1800 rounds 9mm and again 700 rounds rimfire. I need to one way or another reload 400 rounds per week every week but like to stay ahead of the actual need. So right now I have 1000 rounds in the can and will put together 400 this weekend and 400 the next. Looking ahead to June I want 800 rounds on the first so Memorial day weekend will do that.

While not a record breaking amount of ammo it is still a lot and I could never do that volume on anything other than a progressive press. Even so it still takes up too much time. So any tool that helps is worth the expense in my opinion.

 

[Dudedog]

Better value than getting into Golf!

But with the new Super Vel Carbon fiber Wiz Bang driver using secret tech stolen from the Russian's (or was it aliens from outer space) I can hit it 300 yards down the middle just like the guy on TV, just think only $500 and I could be 50 yards farther and in the middle.

(of course a 300 yard drive wouldn't make a difference I would still hit it in the trap and 3 put.....)

Yes you can save money reloading, and there is a break even point where the equipment is paid for, some rounds save you a lot more money than others.
For me it does not really matter I don't "save" anything I just shoot more.

I don't think I want a turret press. Here's why. I decap prior to tumbling and a turret doesn't help with that. So once the handgun brass is clean, I flare the mouth before I prime

I have a LNL progressive, I deprime 9mm then wet tumble, hand prime while watching TV and I have primed brass when I go to load.


Ok on the turret remove index rod, deprime cases, then clean.
Put the rod back in when you go to load.
Hand prime if you like while watching TV, or whenever. You have primed brass ready to load, or prime on press.
On the Lee turret with the Lee measure pistol cases get flared when you drop powder.
(you could flare before tumbling if you wanted to)
So on the turret with primed brass
1 powder drop flair (Lee auto drum measure is about $35)
2 seat bullet (or powder check /lockout die, maybe a tube type bullet feeder, or empty)
3 Lee FCD if you seated in 2, some people like it some hate it, if you didn't seat with 2 do it here. (maybe done here)
4 FCD if you want it and didn't use it in 3.

Still going to be faster than a Single stage and allows you to change things if you ever decide to.
Not saying the turret is the only way to go, but it is a good way to go. Lots of right answers for presses, very few wrong ones.
Take the index rod out and you can use it like a single stage, or manually advance the dies.
Put the rod back in if you ever want to. Rod is easy and quick to remove.

Wet tumbler FART or Lyman on sale for about $170, so with the tumbler a bit over $500.

 

[Skgreen]

Started purely to experiment with 223 accuracy loads. Too stingy to pay for the 'good' (?) ammo, and what little I had bought wasn't that good anyway,,, =(

I don't have ANY obscure calibers, so 'saving money' of any sorts for me is only possible when I'm making 223 pet loads where the consumables cost about the same as bulk would. (It is nice to be able to 'reap your rewards' at the range when you finally find that ~perfect~ load!)

Reloading for me primarily occurs on 'off / rainy / boiling hot' days when there's not much else to do.

I also plink w/ 9 and 45, so I purchased a progressive.

Doubt all ever make any significant money, and never really figured I would. Just a hobby that helps keep me off the streets and outta trouble!

 

[Hokie_PhD]

While not a record breaking amount of ammo it is still a lot and I could never do that volume on anything other than a progressive press. Even so it still takes up too much time. So any tool that helps is worth the expense in my opinion.

That’s not totally true. Technically you COULD do it with a single stage or a turret. It’d be slow and painful and take lots of time. You’d hate it and be angry and not like it, but you COULD.

I only mention that as I had to laugh when I read your post. The reality is the progressive is the best tool reasonably priced to do what you need. In theory if money were no object you could buy equipment like what the ammo manufactures use. If you got that equipment, you’d need a lot of space in addition to the cost. Most likely the cost and space usage aren’t practical.

We all make decisions and determine which tradoffs make the most sense. In my case a single stage is too slow and a progressive is too expensive now. Plus there is no need as I’m not shooting enough to justify it yet. That said, I’m beginning to think putting money aside to get a progressive at some point as I’ll be shooting more this year.

Of course, as you point out, planning can help too. Load during the cold months and get a supply built up before you start shooting more in the nicer weather can help spread out some of the load.