opinions on an AR build

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plainsbilly

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north ILLinois
I am considring building an AR it will be my first. Contents of Current Order
Description Qty. Price Ea. Total
20 round .223 mag, ProMag 5 $20.00 $100.00
24'' AR15 Varmint Rifle Kit; .223 Rem; Chrome moly, 1-9, fluted & threaded, $100.00 option; Young NM chrome bolt & carrier, $100.00 option; Extended latch charging handle, $3.00 option; 2 piece alum free float with swivel stud, $10.00 option; CAR 4 position stock; Standard A2 grip; Green, $20.00 option 1 $768.00 $768.00
AR15 .22LR Conversion Unit with 10 round magazine, 3 MONTHS BACKORDER DELAY 1 $139.00 $139.00
One piece scope mount with built-in 1'' rings 1 $78.50 $78.50
The AR15 Complete Assembly Guide, by Walt Kuleck with Clint McKee 1 $20.00 $20.00
Total: $1,105.50

I have not purchased it yet but does this seem complete (less stripped lower) ? Would it be a good build or not? any questions comments etc would be apreciated
 
sorry about tha buying from Model 1 sales. There is no brand listed for upper so I am assuming in house manufacture. The AR will be built on a stripped RRA forged lower
 
Being this sounds like a target rifle rather than a plinker, You should get a better trigger and handgrip. I wouldn't be worried about the chrome bolt or tactical charging handle unless you plan to use and abuse it alot.
 
I picked up some magpuls at a gun show for $15 a pop (brand new) so I stocked up. Promags are trash only use as a last resort.

Dang I didn't know that Daly made ARs, learn something new every day.
 
The standard .22 rimfire cartridges are the .22 BB, .22 CB, .22 Short, .22 Long and .22 Long Rifle (LR). Although the cases differ in length, all can be fired in a LR chamber. Rifles and pistols for all of these cartridges have an actual bore diameter of about .218 inch. The groove diameter (and the bullet diameter) is about .221-.222 inch.

223 Remington Reloading Specifications.
Bullet Diameter - .224"
Maximum Case Length - 1.760"
Trimmed Case Length - 1.750"
Primer Size - Small Rifle

The .223 bore is actually 2-3 1/1000ths difference in diameter, which means that the bullet will not match the rifling as intended for either rifle. The best I've heard from a .22 conversion kit in a mismatched barrel is about 4" @ 100 yards, which is fine for zapping jackrabbits, but not for precision shooting. If you are already willing to build your own upper, then it's no big deal to build a second one with the correct barrel.
 
If your going to build a target minded AR, go for a fixed stock, skip the flutes and threads on the barrel, forget the chrome bolt and charge handle, instead get an Ergo grip and better trigger.
 
updated build

with some small changes would this be more along the lines of an entry level target/ accurate plinker
20 round 5.56mm mag, aluminum GI 5 $15.00 $75.00
24'' AR15 Varmint Rifle Kit; .223 Rem; Chrome moly, 1-9 twist; Standard bolt & carrier; Standard charging handle; 2 piece aluminum free float tube; A2 buttstock; Sierra Precision grip, $25.00 option; Green, $20.00 option 1 $580.00 $580.00
AccuWedge, tightens the upper/lower fit for better accuracy 1 $3.00 $3.00
AR15 .22LR Conversion Unit with 10 round magazine, 3 MONTHS BACKORDER DELAY 1 $139.00 $139.00
One piece scope mount with built-in 1'' rings 1 $78.50 $78.50
The AR15 Complete Assembly Guide, by Walt Kuleck with Clint McKee 1 $20.00 $20.00
Total: $895.50
 
with some small changes would this be more along the lines of an entry level target/ accurate plinker
If you add in the cost of a complete lower, you'll be in the same price realm as a Rock River DCM rifle with an A4 upper. These already have a match trigger and a good barrel.
Skip the accuwedge- it really dioesn't make a rifle shoot better.
 
Plainsbilly

you can do that much cheaper than 1000.00
order a lower, then look around for an upper. they plug together-- no gunsmithing required. thats how I do it.
 
The AccuWedge is, at best, $3 spent on fixing a nonexistent problem, and at worst $3 spent on something that can cause malfunctions.

Skip it.

Mike
 
You can get this upper:

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From Pete at AR 15 Sales dot com for a significant savings off the listed price. Add in an A2 lower receiver and a match trigger, and you're still under your budget. If you choose, you can even order the whole rifle from Pete, but you'll be paying an 11% excise tax that you don't need to pay.
 
Personally I would dump the lower and buy a complete RRA with the barrel you are looking for. Adcofirearms sells them complete for under $1000. Yeah you don't push the pins together but you do get the promise that it will shoot 3/4 MOA with good ammo. To me that is worth more than the experience. If your frankenbuild doesn't shoot then what are you going to do? If the factory rifle doesn't shoot you can always send it back. If you were going with top end parts and had to piece it together I could understand. The way you have it labeled out though you are buying bottom dollar parts and it still doesn't com out cheaper, you don't get near as nice of a trigger, and you get the promise it will shoot 3/4 MOA. It seems like a no brainer to me. If my options were to have an RRA rifle or a Model 1 rifle I would take the RRA every day.

Even if you are determined to build it you can get a complete RRA bull barrel upper for less than $600. I just don't see how Model 1 wins here with the prices being so close.
 
Plainsbilly--

I wouldnt say you necessarily need to scrap your lower and buy the whole thing from someone else. The truth is, almost any current lower you buy that has been manufactured in the past 10 years, uses the exact same aluminum or steel grades to machine, to make your lower. The internals, as long as they dont come from an unknown company or "Guy I know"-- should work ok. But you are better of, if you want to do the project, buy a complete lower from a good manufacturer, then do your homework on uppers. Read everything you can about the top suppliers and what makes them different for better or worse. Then pick a good bull barreled upper, maybe a 20incher, and you'll be well on your way to a "midlevel target gun". And I must ask, why are you even considering a 22lr conversion to an ar? and just so you know, being off target 3-4 inches at 100yrds. is a big problem, because it will be amplified at 200. Have your target AR .223, and go buy a ruger 10/22. Save the hassle. IMO. And remember, no one on here will be able to tell you whats right for you. Learn the info before you invest.
 
If you want to practice with .22lr, another option, though very expensive, is to get a dedicated .22lr upper. I considered getting a ceiner conversion, but high end target .22lr ammo costs nearly as much as my handloads. I ended up buying a .22 bolt action target rifle instead. Only downside, if you call it one, is that the target rifle has a much longer sight radius and better irons than my AR-15.
 
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