357smallbore
Member
Is this a good model 44 Special. It's a 3in mid 70's gun. Come with original box. $400.
excellent condition.
excellent condition.
Original Charter Arms Bulldog
- Thread starter 357smallbore
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.308 Norma
Member
I like it! I just don't know if it's worth $400 or not though. 
Dave DeLaurant
Member
FWIW, I got a lightly-used target version for $300 last year but I'm thinking of selling it -- the barrel sleeve isn't clocked perfectly, and there isn't enough adjustment in the rear sight to zero it. It's off by 8" at 7 yards!
Yukon_Cola
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I think you're looking at a classic style Bulldog.
https://charterfirearms.com/products/34431-44-special-classic-bulldog
https://charterfirearms.com/products/34431-44-special-classic-bulldog
Gordon
Member
Original ones, which usually have superior workmanship, have a Bridgeport Connecticut barrel address.
JT-AR-MG42
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I do like mine.
Got this one a few months ago NIB for a bit less than the one you are looking at.
Mine is in the 76x,xxx range from Stratford.
I was surprised at the lack of recoil shooting the Lyman 421 with 7.0 grs. of Unique.
I fully intend to work with my 200 grain bullet/ 700x load. Just need the time.
It really does fit nicely in a jacket pocket for my morning exercise, so I'll probably make a holster for the barrel to
keep the gun from poking a hole in the pocket.
Don't know enough about the QC on the newer models to help spend your dough.
JT
chicharrones
needs more ammo
Good catch. Yet it still has the old style cylinder retention stud on the frame which the new production CA revolvers lack.
I wonder when it was made?
JERRY
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Try a 240 swc over 5.5gr of unique. Won't beat the gun up and still plenty of "get off me" umph.
chicharrones
needs more ammo
Can you show us the barrel marking on the other side? Is it a Stratford made gun like the one in this link? https://www.egunner.com/auction_details.php?auction_id=9366266
An interesting link with a timeline near the bottom. Not sure how accurate. https://tincanbandit.blogspot.com/2020/06/firearm-factory-of-month-charter-arms.html
Gordon
Member
Those Early Statford made Stainless Bulldogs are usually very well made.
Now here is the deal: I will go out on a limb and state: , from 40+ years experience, that the Bulldog handles .44 special recoil better than any LIGHTWEIGHT short barrel revolver ! Yes that is targeted at S&W L frame (too big for pocket work) guns like the 296, 396 ect. and anything else I've seen. My old Bridgeport has never seen many +power loads , and probably has a round count under 2000 in it's life but it is scary accurate with Winchester 200 grain Silver tips or my 240 grain Keith SWC soft cast bulleted Unique powered load at 800 fps+- up to 25 yards ! It is one of the very few guns I put on Pachmayr rubber grips (Compacs) for recoil control . I also have an early Statford Stainless Bulldog which is beautifully made and not quite as accurate as the early gun but still very good. I actually keep that loaded with some nasty Corbon 165 grain HP ammo that says 1100 FPS on it. Those loads keep all in the K zone at 15 yards easily enough but the Sharp recoil is snappy enough to be a limit for me and I am sure the strong looking stainless gun. I keep that gun in survival stash mode with the box of ammo . I carry the older blued gun in either a pocket holster or in an old Original Jackass (like a Galco) shoulder rig with a couple speed loaders under opposite arm to balance the rig.
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silicosys4
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I wouldn't pay more than $200, but thats me. Charter arms are a step below armscor and Rock Island revolvers imo, and aren't even in the same league as taurus. I don't hold them in high regard.
I paid $150 for a .44 bulldog pug that started out tight but lasted about 200 rounds of 240's at 750fps before it shot too loose to safely shoot. Hardly a high pressure load.
I had it apart multiple times and the design of the internals is just cheap and flimsy. Yes its small, and once you get inside the thing and start seeing how everything was designed to make it fit, you'll know what I mean
I paid $150 for a .44 bulldog pug that started out tight but lasted about 200 rounds of 240's at 750fps before it shot too loose to safely shoot. Hardly a high pressure load.
I had it apart multiple times and the design of the internals is just cheap and flimsy. Yes its small, and once you get inside the thing and start seeing how everything was designed to make it fit, you'll know what I mean
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JERRY
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I understand what you mean by small cheap and flimsy. The cylinder stop is rather thin and gets a worn rounded edge easily.
OP
OP
357smallbore
Member
Says Bridgeport on it
JERRY
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If its a bridgeport gun it's crane/yoke has been replaced with a newer version.
Some folks just don't understand quality products. I've had at least a dozen in the past 40 or so years. All have been dependable accurate and easy on the wallet.
silicosys4
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Here is an example of what I see to be as a design flaw of the Charter Arms revolver designs. It is something I have not seen in any other revolver design and it bugs the heck out of me to no end. Now, its been a decade since I dealt with this, but this is what I remember.
You can see the relationship of the cyliinder latch screw circled above with the cylinder release in this photo below. Basically the cylinder latch screw threads into a very small and fragile pin extension that is part of the cylinder release.
The way you disassemble the cylinder release of the charter arms revolver is by unscrewing the cylinder release latch screw. The portion that rests against the ejector rod also acts as as slotted screw head. This can be screwed and unscrewed as you open the cylinder via the ejector rod. When the cylinder release latch screw is turned by the ejector rod into a position that is too shallow, the cylinder release can no longer extend the cylinder release latch screw enough to allow the cylinder to release, and the release stops functioning, locking the gun closed. It is a PITA to release the cylinder when this happens if you have a shrouded ejector rod without damaging the ejector rod or the cylinder latch mechanism, as you have to force a feeler gauge or something similar under the ejector rod, between the ejector rod and the cylinder release screw to push the ejector rod in enough to release the cylinder.
This isn't a critical flaw, obviously, as there aren't widespread reports of malfunctions resulting from this design and it seems to work for the most part, but in comparison to the way other revolver designs function, I see this as inferior and problematic. Its an example of the unacceptable (to me) compromises that were designed into the gun in order to keep size and weight at a minimum. Add to that the small size of other critical internals such as the aforementioned cylinder bolt, and you get a gun that has a well deserved reputation for fragility if shot often.
You can see the relationship of the cyliinder latch screw circled above with the cylinder release in this photo below. Basically the cylinder latch screw threads into a very small and fragile pin extension that is part of the cylinder release.
The way you disassemble the cylinder release of the charter arms revolver is by unscrewing the cylinder release latch screw. The portion that rests against the ejector rod also acts as as slotted screw head. This can be screwed and unscrewed as you open the cylinder via the ejector rod. When the cylinder release latch screw is turned by the ejector rod into a position that is too shallow, the cylinder release can no longer extend the cylinder release latch screw enough to allow the cylinder to release, and the release stops functioning, locking the gun closed. It is a PITA to release the cylinder when this happens if you have a shrouded ejector rod without damaging the ejector rod or the cylinder latch mechanism, as you have to force a feeler gauge or something similar under the ejector rod, between the ejector rod and the cylinder release screw to push the ejector rod in enough to release the cylinder.
This isn't a critical flaw, obviously, as there aren't widespread reports of malfunctions resulting from this design and it seems to work for the most part, but in comparison to the way other revolver designs function, I see this as inferior and problematic. Its an example of the unacceptable (to me) compromises that were designed into the gun in order to keep size and weight at a minimum. Add to that the small size of other critical internals such as the aforementioned cylinder bolt, and you get a gun that has a well deserved reputation for fragility if shot often.
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wcwhitey
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Nothing wrong with that revolver! However, $400 is a bit high. If as new in box sure but with the turn ring and some scratches and bluing issues the price is a bit high. Offer $300 if it feels good mechanically. I paid $290 for mine 3 years ago and it was like new. Prices are rising so that isn’t a hard number, I thought it was low myself. They are good guns.
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Boom Vang
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I have been shooting a 200 grain FPL bullet over 5.2 grains of 700-X for a long time. 775 fps out of the 3" bulldog and very accurate load. Great for practice - not a creampuff, but not a stressful load either. An even 5.0 grains will go 750 fps.
Serious load is a 190 SWCHP with 9.5 grains of Accurate No.5 for 900 fps in that gun. The gun is plenty strong, but that's the heaviest I want to shoot for accuracy and reliability.
As the old Charter print ad used to say, "Hits like a .45, carries like a .38".
JT-AR-MG42
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Thanks for the tip Boom.
I shoot a little heavier 200 gr./700x in Colt SAAs and your load sounds
just like what I'll be looking for in the Bulldog.
JT
wcwhitey
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If you want mild in your Bulldog several companies make 160/165 RNFP and SWC’s. Data is available and loaded to 950 fps they duplicate the POA/POI of the Hornady Critical Defense 165 FTX. That’s what I did. I use Win244 with dat from the website. Shoots like a steel frame J frame with +P. POI is 2” low 15 yards which is acceptable for a fix sighted revolver. You can actually practice with the revolver as opposed to shooting a few and putting it away.
I also made up some what I call FBI load copies with the same 190 SWCHP loaded to 900 just like @Boom Vang. It’s a RimRock bullet cast soft for expansion. Recoil is a bit more than the 165 grain bullets but still safe and better than 240 grain loads.
Riomouse911
Member
I also recommend a lighter weight bullet with the smaller guns. Good practice without falling into the bad habit of a recoil flinch is my goal. I often use a coated 165 gr TCFP from Missouri Bullet Co over Bullseye or IMR Target and have found them amazingly accurate and light-recoiling when fired in all three of my .44 Spl. chambered revolvers (GP, 624 and Blackhawk.)
Stay safe.
Stay safe.
