P365 Guide Rod Disassembly & Polishing

Alllen Bundy

Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2021
Messages
708
Location
Murderapolis, Minnesota
The prevailing wisdom on the internet is that the P365 return spring assembly and guide rod is NOT user serviceable. But do you think that stopped me? Of course not!

The P365 guide rod as well as the P365XL guide rod are turned on a lathe, but the turned surface is NOT polished and the guide rods are rough! If you don't believe me, retract the slide and examine the end of guide rod that is exposed. That rough surface is going to wear off leaving crud inside the return spring assembly and the inside of the spring coils will also be worn in the process. The rough guide rod also creates unnecessary friction that will make it more difficult for the slide to return to battery, as well as creating more noise while you rack the slide.

To gain sufficient access to the ends of the guide rod so that I could disassembly it, I put the P365 return spring assembly into the spring compressor that I made.

Spring Compressor P365 RSA W6.jpg

One end of the guide rod has two holes in the end for a spanner to fit into. But I didn't have the necessary spanner so I put a piece of leather over the end of the guide rod and clamped it in a Vice Grip. The other end of the guide rod has four flats on it that you can put a wrench over to turn it. I was surprised by how easy it was to unscrew the end cap.

There appeared to be the remains of high strength red Loctite on the threads of the end cap.

RSA Screw End W6.jpg

The internal threads of the guide rod looked like they were covered with an oily preservative. It doesn't appear that they bothered to clean the threads before applying Loctite and assembling the guide rod. Whether it was because of the oily substance on the threads or the fact that the threaded surfaces appeared to be oxide coated, I don't believe that the red Loctite cured properly. Or it could also be that they pre-applied a thread locker to the end cap threads.

I began sanding with 400 grit wet or dry silicon carbide sandpaper. It removed the oxide coating and made the lathe turning marks very apparent.

P365 Guide Rode Sanded W6.jpg

I wet sanded the guide rod down to a shiny 1,500 grit finish.

P365 Guide Rod Polished.jpg

I solvent cleaned the spring assembly while it was still in the spring compressor. I cleaned the internal threads of the guide rod and the external threads of the end cap with 99.99% isopropyl alcohol. I screwed in the end cap most of the way, leaving about 3 threads exposed. I added a drop of medium strength Loctite 243, which contains it's own primer, and then screwed the end cap closed. I lubed the return spring assembly with Mil Comm TW25B synthetic grease with teflon.

My P365 now racks just a bit more smoothly and a bit more quietly. I've eliminated one more source of resistance that could contribute to a malfunction in a worst case situation.
 
Last edited:
Will the new Loctite release when it’s time to replace the recoil springs, or is it a “replace the whole unit” type system like the ones Cajun Gun Works sells for the CZ 2075 RAMI?

You can usually remove bolt or screw when used with medium strength blue without using heat, provided that the threaded area covered by the Loctite is not excessively long. You can make the bolt easier to unscrew by applying heat, usually at least 300°F. I'm not worried so much about breaking off the threaded portion of the end cap, but I don't have a great way to hold the end of the guide rod flange with the two holes in it. So if I ever need to unscrew the end cap I will heat it with a heat gun to make it easier to unscrew. I've got a thermocouple meter that I can use to measure the end cap temperature so that I don't heat the bolt and springs excessively

I'm not sure what the service life of the guide rod is before it breaks due to stress fatigue, so I would be more inclined to just replace the entire unit.

But to be honest, I feel much more comfortable using the Rival Arms guide return spring assembly. It's guide rod is about 0.240" in diameter, which has a 44% larger cross sectional area compared to the Sig guide rod which is only 0.200" in diameter. The spring in the Rival Arms RSA is an ISMI spring that is rated for twice the lifespan of the Sig springs. The ISMI spring is also heat treated and stress relived AFTER forming, which makes it more reliable and less susceptible to stress fatigue failures.

The Sig RSA spring has been known to coil over itself and jam in as little as 200 rounds.
Sig Sauer P365 recoil spring assembly failed.

The ISMI spring is a flat coiled spring, like the spring on the XL guide rod, and by it's geometry it is nearly impossible to coil over itself.

After I disassembled my Rival Arms return spring assembly, polished the guide rod and reassembled it, and fired with it enough to know that it was working well, I only carry with the Rival Arms RSA and relegate the Sig RSA to range use only. I won't worry about the round count of the Sig RSA. I'll shoot with it at the range until it doesn't appear to be working well. I also periodically measure the strength of my return springs so that I know when they are getting weak.
 
Yeah, I like that jig.

It's not pretty and won't win any awards, but it works. I didn't have any steel of the proper thickness, so I made the end plates from scrap aluminum that I had laying around. If I needed to use this more often I would remake it with thinner steel plates so that it was easier to slip the end plates underneath the ends of the spring.

Do you normally use a mouthpiece pulling jig, or is this only used if the mouthpiece get's stuck?
 
Back
Top