johnsack2001
Member
Your opinion and why.
Trying to get a feel for a new set up that I can use out in "the boonies"
Trying to get a feel for a new set up that I can use out in "the boonies"
Paper or steel targets for 25m?
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F-111 John
Member
Permanent or temporary set-up? Limited or unlimited budget? If you have the space to dedicate to a permanent range, and you can spend a hundred or more per target, steel is the only way to go.
If you have to pack it up, haul it to the range, set it up, then take it down to bring home, stick with a good frame and paper/cardboard targets.
If you have to pack it up, haul it to the range, set it up, then take it down to bring home, stick with a good frame and paper/cardboard targets.
johnsack2001
Member
It may have to be movable depending on erosion of backstops ect and preferably upgradable. One of my buddies will be footing the bill 
so as of right now I don't want to think too extravagant.
so as of right now I don't want to think too extravagant.M2 Carbine
member
It depends.
Personally I like to shoot steel with handguns out to 50 yards.
One way to easily hang steel is with two fence posts, a couple eye bolts and a steel pole.
You can also buy or make moveable steel targets.
Personally I like to shoot steel with handguns out to 50 yards.
One way to easily hang steel is with two fence posts, a couple eye bolts and a steel pole.
You can also buy or make moveable steel targets.
Certaindeaf
member
Steel is great. Use good armor plate, know its limitations, and a good design though. Maybe start with a combo.. heavy on the paper at start. You can always upgrade the number of steel targets later.
johnsack2001
Member
I like that hanging steel set up since it would not require resetting every other mag.
BCRider
Member
The ability to shoot paper is nice if you're working on sights or other issues. But for general plinking NOTHING beats steel targets. Just size them to provide a decent challenge for your skill level. It's no fun if you hit them every time. But don't make them so small and so far that a hit is a rare thing.
"Portable" depends on what you consider to be portable. If it needs to go back into the shed or barn at the end of each day you may just want to make up a half dozen easy to move targets. If you would only need to move things around on a seasonal basis then even the sort of setup Hickock45 has isn't unrealistic. After all each target itself isn't that big a deal to move. In his case he just has a lot of them.
For non magnum handgun calibers you only need regular mild steel plate. 3/8 will ensure that the plate doesn't dish or dimple from the stronger hitting options. And since this is in the handgun forum I'm guessing this should fill the bill. For stands simple 5/8 concrete re-bar rod bent and welded works well and won't fall apart if hit.
If you want to shoot magnums then look at 1/2 inch plate and see. Likely that should be fine. But check the steel after a few rounds. If you are denting it then you'll need to source some stronger alloy from the AR (Abrasion Resistant) category. The top dog in that area being the AR500 which is resistant to even high speed rifle. But there are cheaper options which may be easier to find.
"Portable" depends on what you consider to be portable. If it needs to go back into the shed or barn at the end of each day you may just want to make up a half dozen easy to move targets. If you would only need to move things around on a seasonal basis then even the sort of setup Hickock45 has isn't unrealistic. After all each target itself isn't that big a deal to move. In his case he just has a lot of them.
For non magnum handgun calibers you only need regular mild steel plate. 3/8 will ensure that the plate doesn't dish or dimple from the stronger hitting options. And since this is in the handgun forum I'm guessing this should fill the bill. For stands simple 5/8 concrete re-bar rod bent and welded works well and won't fall apart if hit.
If you want to shoot magnums then look at 1/2 inch plate and see. Likely that should be fine. But check the steel after a few rounds. If you are denting it then you'll need to source some stronger alloy from the AR (Abrasion Resistant) category. The top dog in that area being the AR500 which is resistant to even high speed rifle. But there are cheaper options which may be easier to find.
wally
Member
IMHO at 25m its pistol calibers only for steel, rifles should probably be 75 yards minimum.
Since this is in a handguns forum, perhaps my comment is unnecessary
You will get hit by splatter eventually so quality eye protection is a must for all shooters and bystanders at all times.
Since this is in a handguns forum, perhaps my comment is unnecessary
You will get hit by splatter eventually so quality eye protection is a must for all shooters and bystanders at all times.
Chuck R.
Member
Put me down as recommending…both!
On my place I like and use steel for “speed” but like paper/cardboard for accuracy. I use a combination of 2/3rds IDPA armor plate and full size IDPA cardboard.
The instant gratification in pinging steel helps quite a bit with speed, but I often get sloppy with accuracy as my plates are about equal to a -1 zone on an IDPA silhouette. The use of cardboard and the zero down zones, brings the accuracy requirement back into play.
Chuck
On my place I like and use steel for “speed” but like paper/cardboard for accuracy. I use a combination of 2/3rds IDPA armor plate and full size IDPA cardboard.
The instant gratification in pinging steel helps quite a bit with speed, but I often get sloppy with accuracy as my plates are about equal to a -1 zone on an IDPA silhouette. The use of cardboard and the zero down zones, brings the accuracy requirement back into play.
Chuck
johnsack2001
Member
I like that urban style tactical setup you have there chuck. That gives me an idea to get someone to fabricate a couple custom rigs to hold The IDPA card stock targets and put metal ping targets at the vitals...
Jath
Member
Other: Beer cans.
JK, I say if you got the dough, buy a bunch of steel targets of all sizes and set up a cool little course, and see how fast you can run it, and how accurately.
Buy some spray paint and paint the steel plate faces each time before you use them to see how accurate you're being, and to get group sizes.
JK, I say if you got the dough, buy a bunch of steel targets of all sizes and set up a cool little course, and see how fast you can run it, and how accurately.
Buy some spray paint and paint the steel plate faces each time before you use them to see how accurate you're being, and to get group sizes.
johnsack2001
Member
Lol beer cans... ah brings back memories... but then again I could use the spray paint cans when I get done painting steel. 
M2 Carbine
member
Even though your steel plate might be a larger target than you want, it's easy to spray paint a rough outline of the size target you want. For instance I like about an 18 inch silouette for shooting small handguns at 52 yards.
Usually I try to spray paint the steel at the end of shooting so the targets are all ready to go next time.
Usually I try to spray paint the steel at the end of shooting so the targets are all ready to go next time.
Chuck R.
Member
M2,
While I agree with you, and do the same (paint dots) on my silhouettes for rifle practice, painting gets a little old. It gets real old when the weather’s cool/cold and the outline paint runs……..
I usually paint mine at the end of each session also.
When we get together at my place it’s normally about 3-5 of us and a couple hundred rounds each. We’ll run 3-4 different IDPA COFs in an afternoon timing each other, a lot of times we’ll cut out the “Zero Down” COM zone on the cardboard IDPA silhouettes, and only count the -1s and -3s to save time pasting.
Johnsack,
If you try the steel center, make sure it’s offset to the rear of your cardboard, or the splatter will tear up your cardboard silhouettes.
Chuck
While I agree with you, and do the same (paint dots) on my silhouettes for rifle practice, painting gets a little old. It gets real old when the weather’s cool/cold and the outline paint runs……..
I usually paint mine at the end of each session also.
When we get together at my place it’s normally about 3-5 of us and a couple hundred rounds each. We’ll run 3-4 different IDPA COFs in an afternoon timing each other, a lot of times we’ll cut out the “Zero Down” COM zone on the cardboard IDPA silhouettes, and only count the -1s and -3s to save time pasting.
Johnsack,
If you try the steel center, make sure it’s offset to the rear of your cardboard, or the splatter will tear up your cardboard silhouettes.
Chuck
johnsack2001
Member
I was thinking a 6-8" space between card and steel and angling the plates to about 10 degrees down to further reduce splatter.
BCRider
Member
Spatter isn't a big issue if the plates are not dimpled from high velocity rounds. On flat plates the primary energy in the bullet spatter is out along the face of the plate. Very little or nothing comes back to the shooter. And any that does would have very low energy.
Now if you shoot at damaged plates that have dimples or craters punched into them by using inappropriate ammo which damages the steel then expect to see a lot of energetic back spatter directed at the line if you hit the wrong spot. Shooting at such damaged targets is what gives steel a bad rep. But in reality it's perfectly safe to shoot at steel plates in good condition with the correct bullets and power level for that type of steel.
I'm not sure why you want to stick a cardboard target in front of the steel. Or is the idea to signify to yourself with a DING! that you hit in the -0 or Alpha of the target?
Now if you shoot at damaged plates that have dimples or craters punched into them by using inappropriate ammo which damages the steel then expect to see a lot of energetic back spatter directed at the line if you hit the wrong spot. Shooting at such damaged targets is what gives steel a bad rep. But in reality it's perfectly safe to shoot at steel plates in good condition with the correct bullets and power level for that type of steel.
I'm not sure why you want to stick a cardboard target in front of the steel. Or is the idea to signify to yourself with a DING! that you hit in the -0 or Alpha of the target?
You can do a lot with a few pieces of steel if you're practicing for Running & Gunning, or just shootin' for fun. The problem with steel, though, is the same with plinking - it's too easy to forget your misses. If it has to be either/or, then, I'd go paper.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I like steel plates for two reasons. First, I hardly ever get to shoot them so if i could setup my own that would be great. Second, instant feedback. There's noting like hearing the hit on the plate when you connect. It also gives the impression of being more 3D than paper. I really feel plates are better for practice and paper is great for sighting in scopes.
johnsack2001
Member
Alright so Im getting a general like for the steel for basics and paper for pin point.
Also my friend the Ex-Marine girly suggested I look into Sem-test Ballistics Media does anyone have any experience with this and if so how hard is it to work with and calibrate?
Starting to think a IDPA paper target and steel plate mix would give me the satisfying pings and the accuracy work I need. But if the Sem-test is good I might buy some and some old mannequins just to get a feel for something a little more "real".
Also my friend the Ex-Marine girly suggested I look into Sem-test Ballistics Media does anyone have any experience with this and if so how hard is it to work with and calibrate?
Starting to think a IDPA paper target and steel plate mix would give me the satisfying pings and the accuracy work I need. But if the Sem-test is good I might buy some and some old mannequins just to get a feel for something a little more "real".
F-111 John
Member
I thought SIM-TEST was for testing penetration and expansion of defensive rounds, not for general target shooting?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8dezgRVqs0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8dezgRVqs0
johnsack2001
Member
That was a nice video and I see he has a lot of others. I will probably watch a lot of those to get a feel for different ammo for "soft" targets. My idea was to use that in conjunction with animal bone and/or driftwood to get a lifelike test for different ammo. For exmple testing wall then soft target and soft target then wall ect.
trickyasafox
Member
I always enjoyed shooting paper, but once I bought my first steel target, I realized just how fun it is to have a reliable, safe, interactive target. If possible, get at least one portable steel auto-popper.
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