Patch hits?

[ZVP]

Today I was shooting my '58 Remmie 5 1/2" with 35 gr loads @ 7 yards and I noticed these black marks around the target paper.
Apparentlly, the felt wads were hitting the target and leaving oily, dirty, "stamps" on the white paper.
Ha-ha ,first time I have ever seen this!
I would've thought the heavy 35 gr charge of Pyrodex would have disentegrated the wads.
Anyone else ever had this happen?
ZVP

 

[Blue Hill]

I've had over powder felt wads still stuck on the ball when I dug them out of a dead tree that I had stapled my paper target to. Shooting a Ruger Old Army, 35 grains of Bill Shokey Gold powder.
Blue

 

[mykeal]

Yes.

 

[junkman_01]

Yes indeed!

 

[crazysccrmd]

Happens to me every time

 

[[email protected]]

That's why we don't use them in competition. A wad stuck on the ball one
shot and the next no wad stuck. Doesen't make for real good accuracy. OK
for just plinking and hunting tho.

 

[hawkeye74]

Dangerous too. A wad is believed to have caused a serious injury at a re-enactment several years ago. Champion Hill if my memory is correct.

 

[junkman_01]

It ain't dangerous when you are target shooting.

 

[ZVP]

Well that was my first experience with wad imprints and I think the suggestion to use over ball lube is a good one! Still, the convience of the wads is the fastest way to reload.
I guess I'll have to pay attention to if the powder charges propell them to the paper? I haven't had this happen with 20 gr (Brass Framed gun) loads and with .36 caliber 22gr loads. Maybe the lower powder charges don't push the wads all way to the target paper?
This target was @ 7 yards, maybe it's the optimum filght distance for the little Pizza's? LOL!
Thanks for all the replies folks!
ZVP

 

[Lunie]

In my experience, the benefits of using lubed wads or over-ball lube are both overrated. The vast majority of the time, I use neither.

And yes, I've seen greasy holes from felt wads when shooting paper targets close up. I wouldn't want to be standing right in front of a "blank" loaded with a felt wad!

 

[loose noose]

That's why I use Thompson Bore Butter over my ball to prevent a chain fire. Best stuff you can find and it smells good too.

 

[Gatofeo]

In my Uberti-made Remington 1858 .44, with a 30-grain load, the 1/8" lubricated felt wads is found about 30 feet in front of the muzzle.
Depending on the composition of the felt (hard wool vs. limp polyester), recovered wads will be nearly unchanged (hard) or blown to tatters (limp polyester).
This is why I've suggested hard, wool felt wads for years. Recovering these, I've found many with a negative impression of the rifling around their edge, indicating that the hard felt wad got down into the grooves for good scrubbing.
My revolver bores show little fouling from breech to muzzle, thanks to the cleaning action of hard felt wads.
I've also found the telltale mark of wads on the target face, but never noticed an effect upon accuracy at 25 yards, the distance at which I shoot my cap and ball revolvers.
My bullet trap is a cardboard box filled with alternating layers of plywood and newspaper. When it gets so tattered beyond repair I disasemble it and reclaim the lead balls.
I've occasionally found wads still stuck to the ball, but this doesn't seem to affect accuracy at 25 yards. At least, I've never noticed any flyers.

The best source I've found for hard felt, to make your own wads, is Durofelt.com. You can get very hard 100% wool felt of 1/8" or 1/4" inch thickness at a good price and shipping is free.
The thicker wads are handy for taking up space in the chamber with light target loads.
Felt wads may be lubricated with your choice of lubricant, and easily carried in a shoe polish or Altoids Sour Candy tin.