Percussion caps

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
4,884
Location
NE FL
I was at my lgs yesterday and I noticed they had some percussion caps that were made in Germany (Dynamite I think). They were $10., but I could not find a size on the can or the box. I wonder why or what size they are? Also it did not specify if they were corrosive or non (maybe all the new ones are non), but I remember when the cci's at least were corrosive.
 
RWS

Those German caps are most likely RWS 1075's (metric size) they also make a plus variety. They are very good caps I have used them from time to time. They are packed in a plastic red container same general size as cap tins American manufactures use.
I have found that they are somewhere between #10 and #11. They do cost a bit more but at times that is all one can find available. They work good and you may like them.
 
Right you are, they Were RWS 1075. There is some association between RWS and Dynamite Noble as I have seen both names on ammo boxes. I will try them as they had about 2 full boxes and some change. I know Remington caps used to be so so and I guess enough folks complained and they actually started making good caps again.

Rem no. 10's work just fine on my Ruger, but I can't find them anywhere.
 
The companies merged in the early 90s I think. They seem to be a little inconsistent when they export things as to if they label them from one side of the company or the other. For our purposes they're the same thing.
 
I have noticed the RWS caps throw more sparks than the Remingtons. I think the RWS is a little hotter but harder to seat. They are close in fit to the CCI#11s and Rem#10s.
 
I have about a 1000 of the RWS 1075+ caps. They fit ever so slightly tighter than a Reminton #11. They fit snugly on the Slix Shot nipples I use but for the most part go on OK. Where as #10 Remington will not fit at all.

They are absolutely hotter. All you need do is fire a Remington and an RWS back to back with no charge and you can hear/see the difference. The RWS is much louder and brighter.

That being said, if you have ignition issues using black powder substitutes then the RWS may be the way to go. If you don't, then I'm not sure the extra pop does anything for you. But if it can be set off at all, then the RWS caps will definately do it.
 
Well, I'll see if my lgs can lower the price somewhat so I can give them a try. Thanks for everyones input.
 
I have about a 1000 of the RWS 1075+ caps. They fit ever so slightly tighter than a Reminton #11. They fit snugly on the Slix Shot nipples I use but for the most part go on OK. Where as #10 Remington will not fit at all.

They are absolutely hotter. All you need do is fire a Remington and an RWS back to back with no charge and you can hear/see the difference. The RWS is much louder and brighter.

That being said, if you have ignition issues using black powder substitutes then the RWS may be the way to go. If you don't, then I'm not sure the extra pop does anything for you. But if it can be set off at all, then the RWS caps will definately do it.
How do you know if your having ignition problems? I dont think im having problems but i do shoot alot of subs.

Also i would think a "hotter" cap could wear the nipple port inside the chamber quicker? more heat to burn the hole out faster? Ive only read about the RWS caps ive never actually seen any or shot any.

Im having really good luck with the fit and firing of the remington #10s but im always interested in trying new stuff.
 
I've seen these at Sportsman's warehouse. I got them on a whim they weren't $10 I forget but I wanna say they were lik $6.99. Anyway I couldn't get #10 to fit on my Pietta 1851 and fire the first shot would seat them the second would fire it so I tried these and during test fires with no loads I'd fire one and the other 5 would fall off. I ended up sanding my nipples down, should just buy some new ones. But I played with these a little more and if you pinch them a little they are a nice fit on a Ruger Old Army. but I shouldn't have to pinch anything...
 
I can't imagine what it would take to burn out a Treso nipple made of Ampco or a Slix Shot stainless.
 
Snap with no BANG

Not typically a problem with revolvers or in lines since the cap is so close to the powder unless maybe you're using pellets, but some side locks can be touchier.
Ide call that ignition failure.

I figured ignition problems is not all the powder is burning, weak bang or something else other then just no bang.

I guess if i ask a dumb question ill get a dumb answer.
 
I have a side-lock percussion rifle with the drum and screw set up..after many failures I have come up with a ritual for loading that makes it somewhat reliable but it is a chore. I think I am going to get a flint lock rifle..a lot cheaper to run.
 
Well, in theory you can get ignition that's inconsistent from shot to shot and that will give you some accuracy issues. But normally if you're going to get that you're also going to get at least some total failures, and probably some minor hang fires, and generally it's going to be obvious things aren't quite right. Fixes might include any of... hotter caps, better nipple, using real black powder instead of substitute.

This isn't something you would likely see in a cap and ball revolver with a straight ignition path. It's more like some rifle designs where you're going through a drum. I have a hawken that's a little fussy about caps but there's very little middle ground - for the most part either it's hitting ignition temperature or it isn't. Like Skinny_1950 I found that if I loaded a certain way it would help some but running with hotter caps (CCI Mangum or Remington or RWS) it's like flipping a switch versus regular CCIs.
 
Well i double up on my hearing protection but i still listen to the pop the guns give off. The last time i shot my 1851 i noticed a few of the cylinders had soft pop they didnt have the same crack im use to.

My shots wernt off the paper or anything but i could feel and hear a difference so i kinda wondered what it could be.

I almost took the gun apart to check for a squib but there was a new hole in the target.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top