I recently purchased the above and have had several problems with the revolver from the start. The latest is when I changed to 6-.75 mm SS nipples, they screwed in perfectly. However, when I placed caps on the nipples, I found out when the cylinder rotates, they bind against the rear of the frame. I would like to hear from others about any problems they may have had with this revolver and how do I resolve the SS nipples problem? I have tried filing the rear of the frame where the binding occurs with no luck. Thank you.
Pietta 1863 Pocket Remington 31 caliber
- Thread starter Whately
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First, Why did you relace the nipples? 2nd, are you sure the caps are entirely seated (press on them with a stick or piece of bone). If you're using #10's try #11's and see if that fixes it. If not then you have to shorten the nipples a bit. Chuck them in a drill (on the seat rim, not the threads), and as it spins, go over the top with a sanding block using about 220 grit wet/dry paper. Remove metal in small increments till you have the right height, measure and repeat w/ the remaining 4. Now, since mine takes # 11 caps, and yours probably does too, you'll have to rechuck each nipple and lightly sand down their circumference to accept the caps. By the way, I've heard lot's of complaint's about this model pistol, but I guess I got lucky w/ mine. After 3 yrs of plinkin', doing a kitchen table gun smith trigger job and raising the front site for better POA shooting, the only malfunction I've had was stressing the loading lever till the center connecting ring broke.
Simple. Wrong 6X0.75 nipples.
Unfortunately, there are different size nipples with the same thread; the difference is in the length of the cone (something which is not specified by any of the sutlers we all use). You bought the longer nipple. Get some of the shorter nipple and problem solved (they are probably called 'pistol' nipples).
Unfortunately, there are different size nipples with the same thread; the difference is in the length of the cone (something which is not specified by any of the sutlers we all use). You bought the longer nipple. Get some of the shorter nipple and problem solved (they are probably called 'pistol' nipples).
GENTLEMAN OF THE CHARCOAL
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Call Cabela's. Do NOT ask for 'Product Services". Ask for 'Special Services'. When the connection is made tell them you want nipples made specifically by Pietta for Pietta 1863 Pocket Remington .31..The nipples you receive will be a perfect fit. Guaranteed....
I wish to thank everyone for their advice concerning SS replacement nipples that when a PC is placed on the nipple, they bind against the rear of the frame when cylinder is rotated. At present I have gone back to the original factory nipples. I intend to follow your suggestion about calling Cabela I will post the results. Again thank you.
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Hello everyone, I am new at the forum here. I have one of these,
bought it 5-6 years ago and shot it a little bit, then broke the
loading arm (as I read others have), and now fixed the arm and have been having fun shooting it and that is how I found this thread. In an old thread about this pistol, a member named Filibuste has gotten great accuracy from this pistol, at a fairly long distance, and of
the 25 shots at his target, he wrote 10 grains, but of the ten,
seven is something and there is three of something else. Special mix?
The reason why I ask is I was shooting Pyrodex P, 10 grain by volume,
and it is very underpowered. Using the .319 round Lee mould round
ball. Then I used some fffg black powder, and there was a much better
result, with better power and penetration into a 3/4 plywood board.
In fact, even better results with 12.5 grain black powder fffg.
David Petrosoli has a guide he puts out and in that it mentions
suggested types of powder for the different calibres. He writes that
"Up to .31 use ffffg" I suspect this was loaded full, with fine as
possible powder to get the most power, in the old days. It is fun to
shoot. I need to increase the height of the front sight, to get it to
point of aim at about 10-15 yards. It shoots high right now. I don't know how I am going to increase the front sight. I took off the old front site and it is a pressed fit. A slot. I did
have a problem with the gun once that was unusual. The hammer did not
come down when cocked. The problem was in the lockwork somehow. I worked it out by removing the cylinder, which was not wanting to come out for some reason, probably related, I suspect the paw that creates the cylinder rotation was not engaging/disengaging properly, then I was able to get it to make 3 clicks, as it should- and also to cycle properly once a cylinder was installed. No problem since. It is fun to shoot, and a bit of a challenge to load so it has some power behind it. If I just load some pyrodex into it, it will go bang, but not very powerfully. There must have been some tricks the oldtimers had to get the best performance from this little pistol. I think one main way to get the best performance was to use a fine black power.
bought it 5-6 years ago and shot it a little bit, then broke the
loading arm (as I read others have), and now fixed the arm and have been having fun shooting it and that is how I found this thread. In an old thread about this pistol, a member named Filibuste has gotten great accuracy from this pistol, at a fairly long distance, and of
the 25 shots at his target, he wrote 10 grains, but of the ten,
seven is something and there is three of something else. Special mix?
The reason why I ask is I was shooting Pyrodex P, 10 grain by volume,
and it is very underpowered. Using the .319 round Lee mould round
ball. Then I used some fffg black powder, and there was a much better
result, with better power and penetration into a 3/4 plywood board.
In fact, even better results with 12.5 grain black powder fffg.
David Petrosoli has a guide he puts out and in that it mentions
suggested types of powder for the different calibres. He writes that
"Up to .31 use ffffg" I suspect this was loaded full, with fine as
possible powder to get the most power, in the old days. It is fun to
shoot. I need to increase the height of the front sight, to get it to
point of aim at about 10-15 yards. It shoots high right now. I don't know how I am going to increase the front sight. I took off the old front site and it is a pressed fit. A slot. I did
have a problem with the gun once that was unusual. The hammer did not
come down when cocked. The problem was in the lockwork somehow. I worked it out by removing the cylinder, which was not wanting to come out for some reason, probably related, I suspect the paw that creates the cylinder rotation was not engaging/disengaging properly, then I was able to get it to make 3 clicks, as it should- and also to cycle properly once a cylinder was installed. No problem since. It is fun to shoot, and a bit of a challenge to load so it has some power behind it. If I just load some pyrodex into it, it will go bang, but not very powerfully. There must have been some tricks the oldtimers had to get the best performance from this little pistol. I think one main way to get the best performance was to use a fine black power.
junkman_01
member
The 'trick' is don't use Pyrodex!
RaiderANV
Member
NEVER EVER use 4F in anything other then the flash pan of a flint lock.
Charles Darwin is waiting to add to his yearly list
Charles Darwin is waiting to add to his yearly list
junkman_01
member
Ah....not always so.
This is a quote right out of the ROA owners manual.....
"Black Powder is usually classified by powder grain size, with “Fg” being the largest granulation and “FFFFg” being the smallest granulation normally available. Any granulation within these gradations could be used in the “Old Army”; normally, however, “FFFg” is the preferred grain size. Replica black powder such as Pyrodex may be used, so long as suggested loading data is strictly adhered to."
This is a quote right out of the ROA owners manual.....
"Black Powder is usually classified by powder grain size, with “Fg” being the largest granulation and “FFFFg” being the smallest granulation normally available. Any granulation within these gradations could be used in the “Old Army”; normally, however, “FFFg” is the preferred grain size. Replica black powder such as Pyrodex may be used, so long as suggested loading data is strictly adhered to."
BHP FAN
Member
I've had a couple of these in brass, and have had no problems. Made a measure out of a .32 Rimfire case for the Cabela's version I currently have. Looks like my Spiller and Burr's little brother!
Loading details
The loading lever is thin in a spot, and when you put pressure on the lever, it breaks at the weak spot. I welded it back together, and it was like welding sheetmetal, ground it down, reinstalled, had to fit the lever back together. It is thin there for a reason, as there is a lot going on right at that fulcrum, smallish clearances. I guess initially the .31 Remington didn't have a loading lever, and sales were not very good. When the loading lever was added, the sales increased. The loading lever also allows a quick removal and installation of another cylinder, quickly. If you needed a tool to remove a pin, it was not as convenient. I don't load mine with the lever anymore. I made a stand with a loading arm to press the balls into the cylinder.
As for the ffffg, David Pedersoli puts out a booklet that comes with their black powder guns, tells you how to clean them, loading information, stuff like that. In four or 5 languages. The table is in there, as to what type of powder to use. It goes by the caliber. I was surprised it says ffffg for up to .31 caliber. I don't have any ffffg but I wonder if it makes much of a difference anyway. fffg works fine. 12.5 grains and a 40 grain ball will imbed about half an inch into plywood. Of course it would be nice to see the ball pass through, and it may, that is why I was writing, to see what others have done. There is definitely a velocity difference depending upon how it is loaded.
I slugged the bore and the cylinders. One cylinder was much tighter than the other four. So I opened that up. Also the bore has some tighter spots, both at the breech end and at the muzzle end. So, I plan to lap a bit of the roughness off from the breech end, leaving the muzzle as tight as possible. That should help with the accuracy. I'm just enjoying shooting this spur triggered pistol. I have loaded this up with a wadcutter style projectile, and I did get some good results, but also some inconsistent results. That was some time ago, now I have been at it again. That is the fun of this hobby, you can put it away and pick it up at a later date. That is, if you clean the gun before you put it away.
The loading lever is thin in a spot, and when you put pressure on the lever, it breaks at the weak spot. I welded it back together, and it was like welding sheetmetal, ground it down, reinstalled, had to fit the lever back together. It is thin there for a reason, as there is a lot going on right at that fulcrum, smallish clearances. I guess initially the .31 Remington didn't have a loading lever, and sales were not very good. When the loading lever was added, the sales increased. The loading lever also allows a quick removal and installation of another cylinder, quickly. If you needed a tool to remove a pin, it was not as convenient. I don't load mine with the lever anymore. I made a stand with a loading arm to press the balls into the cylinder.
As for the ffffg, David Pedersoli puts out a booklet that comes with their black powder guns, tells you how to clean them, loading information, stuff like that. In four or 5 languages. The table is in there, as to what type of powder to use. It goes by the caliber. I was surprised it says ffffg for up to .31 caliber. I don't have any ffffg but I wonder if it makes much of a difference anyway. fffg works fine. 12.5 grains and a 40 grain ball will imbed about half an inch into plywood. Of course it would be nice to see the ball pass through, and it may, that is why I was writing, to see what others have done. There is definitely a velocity difference depending upon how it is loaded.
I slugged the bore and the cylinders. One cylinder was much tighter than the other four. So I opened that up. Also the bore has some tighter spots, both at the breech end and at the muzzle end. So, I plan to lap a bit of the roughness off from the breech end, leaving the muzzle as tight as possible. That should help with the accuracy. I'm just enjoying shooting this spur triggered pistol. I have loaded this up with a wadcutter style projectile, and I did get some good results, but also some inconsistent results. That was some time ago, now I have been at it again. That is the fun of this hobby, you can put it away and pick it up at a later date. That is, if you clean the gun before you put it away.
BHP FAN
Member
skipjack
Member
BHP Fan
Those are beautiful!
Those are beautiful!
RaiderANV
Member
JUNKMAN WROTE: "Ah....not always so.
This is a quote right out of the ROA owners manual.....
"Black Powder is usually classified by powder grain size, with “Fg” being the largest granulation and “FFFFg” being the smallest granulation normally available. Any granulation within these gradations could be used in the “Old Army”; normally, however, “FFFg” is the preferred grain size. Replica black powder such as Pyrodex may be used, so long as suggested loading data is strictly adhered to."
Well,,,,that would be fine I guess if it were an Old Army we were talking about an not the lil small framed .31 pocket pistol the topics about. With 41 years of experience of mainly BP arms I'd NOT try it.
This is a quote right out of the ROA owners manual.....
"Black Powder is usually classified by powder grain size, with “Fg” being the largest granulation and “FFFFg” being the smallest granulation normally available. Any granulation within these gradations could be used in the “Old Army”; normally, however, “FFFg” is the preferred grain size. Replica black powder such as Pyrodex may be used, so long as suggested loading data is strictly adhered to."
Well,,,,that would be fine I guess if it were an Old Army we were talking about an not the lil small framed .31 pocket pistol the topics about. With 41 years of experience of mainly BP arms I'd NOT try it.
BHP FAN
Member
''Those are beautiful''! Thanks, Skipjack!
Sltm1, that's a pretty cool hand press, looks like an improvement [but the same basic design] on the one that came with my NAA Super Companions.
Sltm1, that's a pretty cool hand press, looks like an improvement [but the same basic design] on the one that came with my NAA Super Companions.
junkman_01
member
RaiderANV,
You said "NEVER EVER use 4F in anything other then the flash pan of a flint lock.
Charles Darwin is waiting to add to his yearly list "
So I guess the Ruger quote was a legitimate refute to your statement.
You said "NEVER EVER use 4F in anything other then the flash pan of a flint lock.
Charles Darwin is waiting to add to his yearly list "
So I guess the Ruger quote was a legitimate refute to your statement.
VA27
Member
My old Lyman Blackpowder Handbook has tests with the 'baby' Colts, medium Colts, Remingtons and ROA with FFFF. Out of the .31 13grs FFFF and a roundball gets 795fps, 13grs FFF gets 697fps. I wouldn't be afraid to use FFFF out of a steel frame gun. YMMV.
Great information
Great information in the posts. Nice pistols there, and the loading tool is unique. No need to have it on a table or any surface. Just press and go. I like it.
The velocities on the different powders were also helpful.
Thanks for all the replies.
Great information in the posts. Nice pistols there, and the loading tool is unique. No need to have it on a table or any surface. Just press and go. I like it.
The velocities on the different powders were also helpful.
Thanks for all the replies.
BHP FAN
Member
tough choice.
BHP FAN
Member
And did an excellent job! Kudos...
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