Resurrecting A Pietta 1860 Army

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tpelle

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I have an 1860 Army replica by Pietta that I bought 15 or 20 or so years ago, shot it less than 100 times, and put it away. I cleaned it, of course, but probably not good enough or using the correct techniques or materials.

Last week I dug it out of the back of my safe, and got the urge to shoot it again. I removed the barrel and cylinder, and gave it a good scrubbing with Hoppes #9, taking special care with the front and rear surfaces of the cylinder, the recoil plate, and forcing cone. I have not taken it apart any further than that.

There is almost no rust evidenced anywhere, except maybe a touch around the nipples. The bottoms of the cylinder bores, however, look like peering into a used porta-potty. When I reassembled it it cycles very smoothly, the cylinder locks and unlocks as it should, etc. (Before my recent cleaning the action cycled very stiffly, which I now attribute to remnants of fouling on the cylinder and forcing cone.)

I would like to remove the nipples to further clean the cylinder bores, but am afraid to try cranking on them as I don't want to break 'em off - besides I don't have a nipple wrench, anyway.

So, to my questions:

1. What nipple wrench is best to use, and where is a good place to get one?

2. What is a good "solvent" to soak the cylinder in to loosen and de-rust the nipple threads?

3. What else do I need to do to put this pistol back in "fighting" shape?
 
Try track of the Wolf for a good nipple wrench or Dixie Gun Works.

Now don't laugh but pick up a small bottle of "Oil of Wintergreen" and with a small brush or Q-Tip soak the area around the nipple this will leache in and free the nipple if they are stuff, try two or three applications to be sure. I'm a old aircraft mechanic and this just plain works. Local drug stores should have it.
 
Well, before a lot more knowledgeable and experienced guys get on here..

I would soak the end of the cylinder in Breakfree CLP or soak it in liquid wrench or something like that.

For a nipple wrench, I suggest a ratcheting nipple wrench. The Possibles Shop has the best deal going for one, I think..but it will give you a good idea.http://www.possibleshop.com/s-s-nipple-wrench.html. They've got them for cap and ball, #11, and muzzleloaders.

Knock the rust off with a wire wheel or a dremel, if the threads aren't too far gone.
 
I'll bet the "Oil of Wintergreen" works and I'll try it sometime on my 1861 Rem.

But with all seriousness aside I gotta say I hope Oil of Wintergreen don't burn like when I put Bengay on my nipples :O)
:evil:
 
When I was in Japan a friend of our's (japanese) owned a motorccle shop, he gave me a 250 Honda that had sat outside his shop with the sparkplugs up, it was locked up from rust around the rings. I went up to sickbay got a bottle of oil of wintergreen, poured maybe a tablespoon into each cylinder in 10 minutes it was free and I could disassemble it for repair.
I have never had anything it would not unfreeze, I tinker with old cars and trucks its my go to when something is stuck or froze.

Smokin Gun you'll like it doesn't burn too long:D
 
Nipple oiling, while generally accepted and understood in the blackpowder community could possibly incite a mob-like assembly and riot amongst our less enlightened citizens unfamiliar with our ways....While I have not tired oil of wintergreen I can vouch for Kroil as being a very good penetrating oil for stuck nipples. I also can't emphasis enough the use of a "good" nipple wrench that fits your particular nipples. Once stripped they are a bear to get out. At least for a non-mechanical dork like me. Now get that hogleg out and shoot!!!
 
I have to agree on Kroil also may be easier to find then wintergreen, Get a can of Kroil and soak the cylinder a few days.
 
Now don't laugh but pick up a small bottle of "Oil of Wintergreen" and with a small brush or Q-Tip soak the area around the nipple this will leache in and free the nipple if they are stuff, try two or three applications to be sure. I'm a old aircraft mechanic and this just plain works. Local drug stores should have it.
Click to expand...

None other than Clarence M. Bates taught me the wintergreen oil trick and I can attest that it is truly a miracle product. What you need to get, though, is 100%, PURE, NATURAL wintergreen oil and that is usually available at health food stores; I don't think the wintergreen oil sold in your local Walgreen's is "100% pure and natural."

I'm a retired aircraft mechanic, too.:D

One small addition is to apply heat to the threaded area of the cylinders by way of a hair blow dryer. This causes the metal to expand allowing the penetrating oil to get in and do its job.
Click to expand...

+1 on that. If you heat the nipples to the point where they are uncomfortable to the touch, you can literally watch the wintergreen oil get sucked into the threads.
 
OK, now. Great responses so far.

Now for one more question:

Recently in my virtual travels around the 'net, I ran across an article regarding refinishing cap and ball revolvers so as to give them an "antique" finish. This involved using some common household chemical to "thin" the blue finish on the surface of the barrel and cylinder. The results looked really good. Problem is, I forgot to bookmark the article!

Anybody know the link?

Edit:

Never mind! I think this is it - Not cap and ball, but close:

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Antiquing_SAA_Revolver.pdf
 
Last edited:
TomADC

"I have to agree on Kroil also may be easier to find then wintergreen,"

Tom I once had some stuck nipples and I was unable to find Kroil locally. Did find it on the net but with shipping costs it was just too expensive. Finally tried PB Blaster which did the trick. But I'd still like to have some Kroil on hand too:). Where did you buy yours.
NC
 
The best nipple wrench is a 3/16th socket 1/4" drive. The Harbor Freight chinese ones work just fine. Just saw and file a slot centered the width and depth of the nipple shoulder. You can use the screwdriver handled 1/4 drive for most for the really tough ones use the ratchet. These are tough as all get out. I've never been able to break one and have had to get out many a rusted in nipple. The advise of penetrating oil and heat are right on also.
 
A 50-50 mix of Acetone and type A automatic transmission fluid mixed in a glass jar and applied with a small brush will loosen just about anything, better than any of the commercially available spray on penetrating oils. A tiny amount of automotive grade permatex anti seize applied to the threads of the nipples will allow for easy removal even decades later.
 
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